Hmmm...where to start? I'm starting to think that this one time I didn't clean the spigot as I usually do. That could be it. Ale Pails (BB) don't have seals in the lid & none are sold to replace them. And I don't like sanitizing with bleach,sinse it must be rinsed & Starsan so far has done a great job. the poster mentioning hydrogen peroxide was refering to killing the infection on the equipment,not sanitizing with it pathebrewer.
My hands were clean & wet with Starsan when I soaked the bag & squeezed it out. While stil wet (fingers),I stretched the large bag over an open bowl to fill with the pellets before tying it off.
I'm also careful when cleaning the buckets. I soak them in water up to the top of the crud line with 3TBSP of PBW stired in till dissolved. I put the lid on loosely & soak till the next day or more if needed till it all soaks loose. Then i gently use my bottling brush to go over the inside lightly to be sure it all comes loose. No scratches,since the bristles are plastic as well. I run the cleaner through the spigots into a bucket to dump out so the spigot gets cleaned out as well. dito with rinse water. I then take out the spigot & soak-n-scrub them with aquarium lift tube cleaning brushes. rinse & soak in Starsan before cleaning the mounting hole as well. I reassemble it wet with Starsan.
I don't store or clean anything in my fermenters ever. That's asking for scratches. & it takes more than a microscopic scratch to infect a batch. You need a certain number of nasties to build a colony from. There are always a few of them in any batch of beer they say. READ THIS;
http://perfectpint.blogspot.com/2012/03/infected.html
This on only got extra time in primary because it wouldn't settle out clear or slightly misty. It was very misty,as I forgot to use super moss in the boil,do to half the fermentables being fresh mashed wort. I get that if I don't super moss the batch. So it got extra time,& in an ale pail with no seal in the lid,that doomed it. I hadn't even dry hopped it yet & it was already infected.
Other times,I've gotten a little of this just barely starting at bottling time. So I racked out from under it & they were ok. I'm not so sure this time. I'll check it again in the morning to see if it settled out yet & what the gravity is.
It was 1.015 a week or so ago. 1.012 yesterday.
I was thinking if it still looks & tastes ok tomorrow morning that I'd go ahead & bottle it. Keeping it in the man cave where it's a lil cooler than upstairs where I usually keep them in colder weather months. The master Bedroom is the warmest room in the house. Good for carbing in winter. I'm going to dump the ale pail & the hop sack within. It's a large muslin grain bag from kits we've had. I'll just buy another one.
I'm going to JW Dover for another of the short wide buckets I made a bottling bucket out of in my gadget videos. They're 7.9 gallon,& they have it about 4 bucks cheaper than Midwest or NB. They have seals in the lid & airlock grommets fitted. I've got a new Italian red & white spigot already. I keep a loose eye on bottled batches in their covered boxes to see if they're clearing,etc. but not all the time. I prefer to leave'em be to do their thing till ready for fridge time. I am curious to see if the lack of o2 (I use o2 barrier caps & a bottling wand) lessens the lacto's effects & allows the yeast to take over. The yeast seems to be taking over in the bucket atm. It knocked off a few more points from 15 to 12,so we'll see in the morning.
I'd like to put a fitting on the lids to pump some co2 through into the head space till the airlock bubbles a little to be sure it stays safe. After initial fermentation & the airlock center piece settles down that is. I'm starting to get paranoid about that now. I have 5 gallons (19L) of a traditional stout in the Cooper's fermenter now. Just a couple days past initial fermentation. I've had good luck doing 5 gallon batches in that one. Even though it's designed for 23L (6.072USG).