I got a brewery for christmas!

[CA_Mouse]

Agreed, go with a 15 gallon. I went with an 11 gallon which is perfect for the 6 gallon brew days I have (space constraints). I rarely ever secondary outside of a keg (my sours are a different story) I mainly use my buckets for most beers and haven't used either of my 5 gallon carboys in a year.

 

[fuelish]

Get a 15 gallon (60 quart) aluminum pot, save the cash for ingredients and/or keg going.

My vote goes to stainless steel....I refuse to cook or brew in anything aluminum, but....that's just me - am a former baker, spoiled by stainless wares in commercial kitchens

 

[Hello]

You wonder if doing 5 gallons in a 15 gallon pot? Remember, boil off and you'll likely start with around 7.5 gallons as a high estimate. I just got a 60 quart and I plan on doing both 5 and 10 gallon batches. I said I wouldn't do 10 gallons but here I am less than 6 months after I started brewing.

 

[insanim8er]

My vote goes to stainless steel....I refuse to cook or brew in anything aluminum, but....that's just me - am a former baker, spoiled by stainless wares in commercial kitchens

There is absolutely nothing wrong with aluminum as long as it's cared for properly.

I said I wouldn't do 10 gallons but here I am less than 6 months after I started brewing.

Yup... Once you find out 5 gallons of that amazing recipe doesn't last long, you start going for 10 gallons. Now I'm on the boarder of 15 for some recipes. It doesn't help when your beer drinking friends and family members think you make the best *insert style here*

I actually have some family that begs me to make more, and they offer to pay for ingredients. Have them pay for 10 gallons of ingredients and split the batch.

So having 10 gallon capacity to do a double batch and split is also nice. I also helps when you're doing collaboration brews with friends. And it's nice to do a double batch to experiment with yeast or dry hopping... Etc... There are a lot of benefits.

 

[Newby94]

I'm new to brewing just finished my first batch, with that said excuse me for this ignorant question. When doing double batches do you have to double the ingredients or just add more water to the wort?

 

[insanim8er]

I'm new to brewing just finished my first batch, with that said excuse me for this ignorant question. When doing double batches do you have to double the ingredients or just add more water to the wort?

The simple answer is Yes double all the ingredients. Adding water lowers the gravity.

The more advanced answer for all grain is, it depends... It depends on your efficency. For example I did a double batch of nut brown where the recipe was for 5.5 gallons with 70% efficency. I ended up with (I think about) 13 gallons of beer because I got 82% efficency. I could've kept it at about 11 gallons and had a higher ABV. Instead I added more water to get to the right gravity before fermentation. The result, lower ABV (on target) but more beer than expected.

The same can work in reverse. Lower efficency means more ingredients to hit the target.

 

[OctoBrew]

Can you use garden hose water for the boil water?

 

[CA_Mouse]

Can you use garden hose water for the boil water?

If you like the taste of your water, then use it. If you don't like it, filter it and make adjustments to it. You should get a water report from your city and see if it is out of spec for the style of beer you want to brew.

 

[insanim8er]

Can you use garden hose water for the boil water?

I do... I also live in Oregon City (Portland) Oregon where we have really good water. I thought about doing RO, but I don't really have a reason to. I'll crush half or a whole campden tab (one tab treats about 20 gal) to help with chloramine. Boiling takes care of chlorine. Get your water reports and look them over. I was able to talk to the water treatment guy for my area. Funny thing is... He's a homebrewer too.

 

[Doctor_M]

I do... I also live in Oregon City (Portland) Oregon where we have really good water. I thought about doing RO, but I don't really have a reason to. I'll crush half or a whole campden tab (one tab treats about 20 gal) to help with chloramine. Boiling takes care of chlorine. Get your water reports and look them over. I was able to talk to the water treatment guy for my area. Funny thing is... He's a homebrewer too.

Sorry about quoting you insanity8er I'm referring to the OP...........if your brewing extract straight ro water + mineral addition suited to style should be super eAsy. And it should net better results. Like I said before your overthinking this for the level your at.... start dabbling in all grain and then we will talk!

 

[Doctor_M]

Basically what I'm saying is from what I've seen the best most obvious changes in beer making are accomplished by changing water chemistry and temperature control during fermentation.

 

[ProfSudz]

I'd recommend the edelmetall - I've brewed a batch on that and it has the same heating element as the Blichmann. We had a 10 gallon batch threatening boilover multiple times in a very short time period.

I'd also second your decision on the megapot - the boilermakers look very sexy but functionally they aren't offering enough upside for the price.

Lastly, like others have said, if you envision yourself doing 10 gallon batches then go with the 15 gal pot. When buying high-end gear, the goal is to get something that will last your brewing career. Nothing burns like buying a kick ass pot and replacing it a year later

Just my two cents.

 

[OctoBrew]

this is my towns water report from 2012. I don't have a clue what any of it means. Is it suitable/should i do anything to it: http://www.montclairnjusa.org/dmdocuments/water-quality-2012.pdf

 

[insanim8er]

this is my towns water report from 2012. I don't have a clue what any of it means. Is it suitable/should i do anything to it: http://www.montclairnjusa.org/dmdocuments/water-quality-2012.pdf

It depends on what you're trying to achieve. Different areas of the world are known for their styles of beers because of their local water. So what you do to your water will depend on the style of beer you're brewing.

The best solution is for you to understand what and why you're doing something. Water chemistry is a big feat to learn, but you should be able to get a grasp of the basics fairly easily.

Here's a good start:

http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-1.html

If you have a a particular style of beer you like, learn about it and the region know for that style and their water... Then mimic it.

Hope that helps

 

[OctoBrew]

Ok. But will the water I have right now create any off flavors

 

[Bearclaw215]

If your water tastes good to you prolly not. Keep in mind a lighter beer like a helles or pils requires attention to water and overall good brewing practices to make a good one since there's not a whole lot of room to cover up a mistake. Amber to dark beers are usually are a good starting place until you get where you need to be to brew the lighter beers. Extract brews don't really need anything special for water since it was mashed with their water. Just get the chlorine and the other cloro out (I forget what is called, sorry) of your water

 

[BurntOrngeLonghorn84]

Please don't use water from a garden hose to brew with. If you need to run a hose for water go to Walmart and buy a white RV hose made for drinkable water.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Home Brew mobile app

 

[OctoBrew]

I got the 15 gallon mega pot with thermo and ball valve and the blichmann burner with leg extensions! Should be here soon and I'll brew up a nice pale ale

 

[insanim8er]

I got the 15 gallon mega pot with thermo and ball valve and the blichmann burner with leg extensions! Should be here soon and I'll brew up a nice pale ale

Atta boy... That blichmann burner will make the beer taste better :cross:

 

[OctoBrew]

Should/can I get a screen filter for the mega pot? Any links to a good one?

 

[insanim8er]

Should/can I get a screen filter for the mega pot? Any links to a good one?

What kind of screen filter are you talking about?

False bottom
Bazooka tube
Hop blocker

Something for hot break?

 

[Rockn_M]

Congrats!

I second plastic fermenters. I don't want to accidently drop a glass carboy and not only lose 5 gallons of wort\beer but ruin whatever surface it breaks on. Plus I haven't been able to tell a difference with plastic.

If you don't have one already a fermenting chamber. You'll get great beer if you can control the temps.

I'll also suggest getting the biggest pot you can carry by yourself. I have a 10 gallon pot and it is almost to the top when I'm doing all grain.

 

[OctoBrew]

i was thinking something like this: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/the-bazooka-screen.html

 

[m3n00b]

I also agree about using buckets instead of carboys for primary. I thought I was cool and started with 3 carboys but I bought a bucket for one of my IPAs and now ferment everything in buckets. I'll save the carboys for my future winemaking hobby.

 

[insanim8er]

i was thinking something like this: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/the-bazooka-screen.html

Make one...there are a hundred forums dedicated to building them.

I also agree about using buckets instead of carboys for primary. I thought I was cool and started with 3 carboys but I bought a bucket for one of my IPAs and now ferment everything in buckets. I'll save the carboys for my future winemaking hobby.

Nothing beats a keg unless maybe it's a conical. But for the cost, kegs are elite. 1/4 kegs are perfect for 5 gallon batches.