• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

I added Molasses

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

WayneTree

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2009
Messages
87
Reaction score
0
Location
Tolland
I added 2oz of Molassees to my boil for a 5 gallon Porter-Mix.Femented strong for 3 days then stopped all together.I am going to transfer as it has been a week.Did the Molasses do anything to hurt my brew????
 
Not Molassas, That whole batch is screwed! Pm for my address and have it shipped to me for disposal...

Seriously RDWHAHB.
 
How do you know it has "stopped all together"? Just by watching the airlock? If so, read the many MANY posts on here about airlock activity not being a good indicator. Also, why transfer to a secondary? Especially after only a week? Read the many posts on here that say transferring to secondary is no longer needed.
 
DO NOT TRANSFER to a secondary unless you are dryhopping or adding fruit so I am told.
Just because the air lock is no longer bubbling the yeast are still working. they are cleaning up after their party. 3 to 4 weeks minimum in the primary. I have just started a dopplebock and its going to sit in the primary for 4 weeks. RDWHAHB
 
I've got a number of beers that have molasses in the boil, including a porter with 8 oz - next time I make that one, I'll probably up it to 12-16 oz. As far as your yeast is concerned, molasses is just 50-75% sucrose (depending on the type).

+1 to what the others have said re airlock activity and keeping it in primary.
 
Take a grav reading, not go by "activity" airlocks are just vents for excess co2 not magic fermentation gauge, they can stop even when there still is more fermenting going on.....

The mollases is fine.
 
How do you know it has "stopped all together"? Just by watching the airlock? If so, read the many MANY posts on here about airlock activity not being a good indicator. Also, why transfer to a secondary? Especially after only a week? Read the many posts on here that say transferring to secondary is no longer needed.

You only really need to transfer to a secondary for a few reasons.

1. get more sediment out. in my rye pale ale which had TONS of hops i transferred it because there was just TOO much junk. my scotch ale i didnt need to transfer...

2. if you are going to age it

3. if you want to dry hop (and you can really just do it in the primary, tbh)

But you should wait two weeks to transfer it. I usually go two weeks primary, one week secondary, 3 weeks bottle. everything is sure to be done then.
 
IMO it comes down to a question of "Why do you feel you need to rack to secondary?" Again, I used to rack all my beers. But looking into the issue, reading what people here on HBT were saying and advising and trying long primaries out for myself, I found that it's usually just an extra hassle that risks introducing oxygen or contaminants to your beer.

Re the sediment: the way I see it, you have to be careful not to siphon a lot of junk into the secondary anyway, so why not just be careful not to siphon it into your bottling bucket or keg? A secondary really doesn't have any effect on how clear your beer will be once it's conditioned and chilled.
 
4. You need your 6 gal Carboy to make another batch, then racking to a 5 gal secondary is acceptable. :)
 
my bock kit only airlock-bubbled for about 2 days, but continued to drop gravity points over the next 4 weeks.

I cast my vote for DO NOT transfer. leave in primary
 
Back
Top