Still reading your results, so I can't wait for more. I love experiments even if I don't think the outcome will be beneficial, because how would you ever know unless someone does experiment?
Any more updates on your efforts Pollox? I had the thought of using H2O2 to oxygenate this weekend and thought I was brilliant - turns out I am about 2 years slowI kegged it today and there were no off flavors I could detect. Actually the ferment was so clean I think It may have had too much O2, but it was just WLP001 so it is clean anyway. I tried it again today with two batches but cut the amount of H2O2 in half. We will see how these turn out.
brew on.
From Brewing Techniques magazine:
To answer your second question, I consulted my friend Dr. George Fix, author of The Principles of Brewing Science (1). Based on his answer, I would not even try to use peroxide as a substitute for an aerating stone. Here's why.
Hydrogen peroxide is basically a water molecule with a second oxygen atom loosely attached. That loose oxygen is highly reactive and makes peroxide a powerful sanitizer. As you might expect, adding a dose of sanitizer to a freshly pitched wort clashes with the mission of your yeast. When Dr. Fix tried using peroxide to oxygenate wort, he managed to kill most of the yeast rather than make it grow. The resulting fermentation was typically problematic - long lag period, slow and incomplete attenuation, high levels of by-products, and so forth. Based on Dr. Fix's findings, I do not recommend peroxide as a substitute for air or oxygen in cold wort, and I see no point in calculating the volume of H2O2 required.
BT - Troubleshooter: Vol. 4, No. 6
Bleached Blonde Ale - what happened to my stout!!!
K.I.S.S. people! People have been making beer for centuries! All you need is a portable oxygen tank and diffusion stone like the Egyptians used!![]()
you can make an oxygen generator with hydrogen peroxide and bleach (sodium hypochlorite). it reacts to produce oxygen gas and salt water.
i would not be adding it into the beer though. you would likely kill your yeast, as others have suggested.
Why would it kill the yeast? The only information I have got from this thread from others is they have suggested that it will kill the yeast because H2O2 is a sanitiser. Yes it is a sanitiser, when mixed at the proper concentration for sanitising. What is doing the sanitising is the O2, therefore if you claim that trying to use H2O2 to oxygenate will kill the yeast, then I could claim that using oxygen to oxygenate will kill the yeast (if you get enough of it in there somehow)
No one has given any real evidence that H2O2 used at the proper concentration for oxygenation will kill the yeast. Pollox has given anecdotal evidence that it could actually work and did not reasult in off flavours, but no one has come back with concrete evidence why (or why not) this would work.
was the short form of me saying "i doubt anyone trying to do this would actually calculate out the oxygen content and use the correct concentration. people are most likely to overestimate by many orders of magnitude and end up killing their yeast."i would not be adding it into the beer though. you would likely kill your yeast, as others have suggested.
it only shouldnt be used due to the fact that it destroys good cells as well as bad cells. it is still a potent antimicrobial agent, and will destroy bacteria, fungi, and other living things. topically, its not effective to treat bacterial infection because of the bodily process involved in an infection (puss and mucous dillute the peroxide or sequester the bacteria enough to reduce its effectiveness at destroying them).Hydrogen peroxide is NOT an antibacterial and shouldn't be used to clean wounds
That's a good plan mattd2. I gotta say though, I've started venturi-ing as I transfer and have seen a huge improvement. I think this is probably a better/more reliable method for aerating the wort. But to each his own. I have heard between 8-16ppm O2 is the correct amount, yes? A simple mole balance, with some consideration for lack of efficiency to O2 would be useful. Also, making an 'O2 starter' separate with tap water could be useful, then adding - because the process/equilibrium for decomp is reduced in acidic environment. So your pH ~7 tap water may be more effective.
Hope there are no ruined batches if some of my logic is wrong.
using oxygen to oxygenate actually will kill the yeast- in concentrations over ~40ppm. (so says wyeast.com) that is .004%. same as concentrated oxygen will destroy many materials (not only organic, also metals, plastics, minerals...).
hydrogen peroxide is an effective disinfectant even in concentrations down to somthing like 0.02 to 0.05%. adding a 3% or 5% soloution to almost anything living will kill it.
...
Ya, I guess I was thinking about it more from a pure water standpoint. So after reading some of that stuff I would probably only use it outside the wort. Probably the best way would be to mix up a 1L bottle (pepsi, coke, whatever) with tap water and the proper concentration of H2O2. Seal that, shake, let it sit for couple hours in sunlight and such, then chill overnight. That might give you a highly oxygenated liquid that you could mix into your wort once cooled. But I don't know.
And venturi-ing is where you rack your wort from your kettle to your fermenter (after cooled) using your autosiphon. But along the path of the hose you reduce the diameter with a second hose. At that junction you place a pin hole in the smaller diameter hose. The acceleration of the liquid due to the reduced diameter will suck in air. And some of this air will become dissolved along the rest of the hose path. Here is a thread on it.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-aeration-gadget-68218/
Thanks for the help insub
Being that you are a chemist you should be able to actually tell us why it is so stupid?
Also can you tell me how to tell what reaction will take precidence, i.e. for this example either the water + H2O2 or the sugar + H2O2 (i am assuming that any disolved metals/salts will be minimal so will make up a small percentage of the overall reactions and they could be ignored). I am guesing it will be the sugar + H2O2, but would like to know how to tell for the future.
Also can you confirm I have the sugar + H2O2 equation correct (the actual yahoo answers had sugar as C12H24O11, maltitol, but that left a couple of hydrogens not doing anything afterwards)
Wow this Dr Fix seems a bit loose, and the BT guy as well. The artical doens't even state how much H2O2 was used in "Dr" Fix's trial
A bio-organic-analytical nobel prize-winning chemist couldn't tell you all the specific reactions that would be happening. The wort is very complex, and the entire point of brewing is to control as much of the process as humanly possible.
1. At low concentrations, H2O2 is still H2O2 and will be involved in the same types of reactions - which have been shown to stress/kill yeast and other single-celled organisms.
2. When we try to calculate precise volumes, gravity, IBU, etc...and then you want to dilute the wort with a strong oxidizer thereby changing concentrations via dilution and chemical reactions?
3. H2O2 is known to react with carboxylic acids forming peroxy acid which can react with alkenes, amines, thioesters, on and on (by the way, every amino acid is a carboxylic acid and amino acids are the building blocks of proteins)
So what are you really doing chemically to the wort? Your guess is as good as mine, but it isn't as simple as a reaction with "water" or "sugar". Which sugar? How many different sugars do you have?
You're not just getting oxygen, you are getting a lot of byproducts which will vary depending on the amount of H2O2, the type of grain, the reaction volume, etc.
Get my point...should I go on?
It's stupid. Keep it simple(r).
Yes, I might of misinterpreted the second hand account (and the only account of it I can find) of the experiment . But also that account and the one from pollox don't match up. I would have to guess this was possibly because Pollox added a smaller amount and waited before adding the yeast.Yes, Doctor Fix. George Fix had a doctorate from Harvard and, more importantly, has probably contributed more to the science of homebrewing than any other single individual. A second hand account of one experiment shouldn't dissuade you from trying new things, but nor should it activate your snark-organ. Lose the scare-quotes and learn to respect your betters, kiddo.![]()