HOWTO - Make a BrewPi Fermentation Controller For Cheap

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Don't really know what you are asking. Do you have an English speaking friend who could help you out? It looks like you are showing us your boot up logs. I don't know how that relates to brewpi freezing up. Maybe you have a bad sd card.
 
@wbarber, sorry for my English and for the sort information.

My Brewpi was working good, but after some hours, the web access (it is over a lan - without internet access) was not possible and it (RPi) stop to send info (set point as programmed on Beer Profile) to Arduino. The Arduino still working with the last set point.

Resuming: I couldnt access it over lan and the Beer Profile freeze to send new set points to Arduino. After reboot, it restart and work properly.

Thanks,

Fabiano

PS.: the pictures are the log file (syslog).
 
I don't see any messages in any of those logs that pertain to BrewPi - or even any system-level errors per se.
What I see are a lot of info/warning/error messages related to the inability for the system to reach the Internet (all those DNS messages, for instance).

Just to be clear, your RPi is freezing, or is it rebooting itself?

Cheers!
 
Fabiano,

Is the raspberry pi freezing, or is the webpage freezing? If it is just the webpage, then can you restart apache?

day trippr - sorry for poking my nose in here, but my apache server will freeze sometimes.

Cody
 
Jeeze, please don't ever refrain from offering help if you can! That goes for everyone/anyone.

I'm just one of a bunch of helpers here - and there's a hella lot I don't know much about. The more folks helping, the better!

Cheers - and thanks! :mug:
 
Well apparently you've never uttered the words brewpi in the stc-1000+ forum. They will stone you to death if you even bring up the fact that there are others fermenting software/hardware to be had. Especially if the person asking for advice is basically asking for a brewpi.
 
@borisfa I know this has been asked before. But is there absolutely no way to get internet where you are. Or is it like a bad roommate who thinks that every appliance is going to make the Internet bill go up.
 
Well apparently you've never uttered the words brewpi in the stc-1000+ forum. They will stone you to death if you even bring up the fact that there are others fermenting software/hardware to be had. Especially if the person asking for advice is basically asking for a brewpi.

Some things are best avoided as no good will come of it.

Someone was recently thinking out loud hereabouts of building a controller based on reverse diode leakage versus temperature. It was all I could do not to toss a BrewPi bomb...

Cheers! ;)
 
@day_trippr, it is freezing. I need reboot it (unplugging power wire from wall). After reboot, it restart and work properly (until a new freeze 😓).

@CGish, it freeze. I imagine that all RPi freeze, because it dont send new setpoints to Arduino, dont allow us access web interface over lan,....

@wbarber69, internet is possible, but where I made my beer is like a country place (I dont know how can say it in English) and the internet service is to slow. So, I dont see advantage to install internet there. Ah, I go there only on the weekends and our mobile internet service work properly there.
 
My guess is the system freezes have nothing to do with BrewPi.
If you wanted to experiment and don't have a beer fermenting, kill the BrewPi script, don't access any BrewPi-related pages, and see if the system still hangs.

And there's really no reason why you cannot operate an RPi (with or without BrewPi) without Internet connectivity.
Yes, the OS will complain that it can't access a DNS agent, etc, but it'd be a pretty crappy OS if that caused it to hang...

Cheers!
 
Have you checked your power? Is it possible that your power drops out momentarily and not all parts of the system wake up properly ?
 
Doomy,
I added caps, rewired my LCD shift Register, powering the arduino with a seperate PS, etc and still having the issue. Actually I think I have narrowed it down to when it kicks the fridge on and not the heater. My heater is one of the small Lasko 101 ceramic heater.
I am not sure what else to do at this point..
This is what it looks like after running for a while..

Mine looks similar after some switching. I have ordered SSRs now, hope it works..
 
Earlier in the thread, I had some problems that seemed to be related to a relay sticking. I haven't brewed in a couple months, so I didn't really make it a priority to look into.

Thanks to Neptune canceling our Florida vacation, I had some time to investigate this past week. I swapped out the two switch relay board for a four switch unit that I had on hand. When I plugged in the fridge with the outlet enabled by the arduino, the relay board sparked and fried. I guess this industrial-use fridge does draw too much current for these boards.

Attached are the specs for the unit. I'm not an electronics pro but can generally follow instructions. Can anyone suggest a different relay or approach? I'd rather not get into taking apart the fridge.

Thanks,

Jason

IMG_1019.jpg
 
Pictures of your wiring would be a much bigger help. Pops and fried sounds more like a short.
 
Pictures of your wiring would be a much bigger help. Pops and fried sounds more like a short.

Thanks. I'll check the wiring tonight, and swap in an 8 switch relay I have if the 4 port did get fried.

Earlier in the thread, I posted where BrewPi would say it was cooling, but the fridge would not be on. A reboot of BrewPi might cause everything to reset and the cooling outlet to come back on, but it wouldn't stay that way for long.
 
258777d1424711178-howto-make-brewpi-fermentation-controller-cheap-img_1019.jpg


Please tell us there's a decimal point between the "5" and the "0" just below and the left of the "Amps" :eek:

If that chiller really is rated for 5 amps your relay module should have handled it ok. And sparking up the replacement does cause some suspicion about the wiring...

Cheers!
 
Maybe his relay is layed across a piece of metal and making contact on the bottom. Without seeing the wiring I would not advise hooking anymore relays up. When one of these 15amp relays go it's not gonna throw up any smoke or anything, unless it's waaaaay over current. I'd be willing to bet that the 15amp relays could easily handle up to 25 for a short period. So I doubt it's the relays fault. He may be using one of the 3 terminals incorrectly. Or all 3. Without some visual I can only imagine.
 
Is there any advantage of using the new RPI 2 over the original B+ 512mb one? I'm not planning on burdening the RPI with much more than the BrewPi software.

I'm still waiting for some parts, but in the meantime I have gotten my handmade Arduino shield to work with the LCD. Yay!
 
Maybe his relay is layed across a piece of metal and making contact on the bottom. Without seeing the wiring I would not advise hooking anymore relays up. When one of these 15amp relays go it's not gonna throw up any smoke or anything, unless it's waaaaay over current. I'd be willing to bet that the 15amp relays could easily handle up to 25 for a short period. So I doubt it's the relays fault. He may be using one of the 3 terminals incorrectly. Or all 3. Without some visual I can only imagine.

I had the relay in a new construction outlet box mounted to a piece of plywood. I already disconnected everything and started a rebuild as I got a couple of the new revision 2 Raspberry Pi's to deploy and an extra Uno. I must have wired the relay incorrectly or somehow had a stray strand that shorted it. I'll blame my laziness for trying to do this in a dim basement with old eyes.

Either way, complete software refreshes did not solve my first problem, which started after everything ran properly for two months so through basic troubleshooting I think it is down to the relay.
 
Is there any advantage of using the new RPI 2 over the original B+ 512mb one? I'm not planning on burdening the RPI with much more than the BrewPi software.

It'd be difficult to justify paying the current extortionate pricing on the Model 2 if all you're planning on doing with it is to run the BrewPi host code.

I'm still waiting for some parts, but in the meantime I have gotten my handmade Arduino shield to work with the LCD. Yay!

Cheers! :mug:
 
alfista, I also have had issues with these relays sticking on, I swapped out the relay board and still the same..

I had an extra power supply plugged in to turn fans in the fridge on when the fridge was switched on, I unplugged the fan power supply (2A) and all worked normally, so my fridge plus the power supply were drawing too many amps, probably when the compressor started up.

I have ordered a 30A SSR which I plan to activate using the relay, this I hope will fix the problem.
 
alfista, I also have had issues with these relays sticking on, I swapped out the relay board and still the same..

I had an extra power supply plugged in to turn fans in the fridge on when the fridge was switched on, I unplugged the fan power supply (2A) and all worked normally, so my fridge plus the power supply were drawing too many amps, probably when the compressor started up.

I have ordered a 30A SSR which I plan to activate using the relay, this I hope will fix the problem.

Thanks mr_so - (perhaps) oddly mine appeared to be sticking off, where it would say it was cooling, but no power to the outlet and temps would skyrocket.

I took everything apart and to the workbench and did some testing on the two channel relay before replacing with an eight channel. I couldn't get the two channel to work right but the eight channel powered the outlet right up. I'll use the remaining six channels for some other automations.

So it seems I'm good for now, but will look into the SSR that you are using (I've mostly skimmed over the SSR discussions in the thread). Is there a link to a guide/product you are using?

Thanks,

Jason
 
Have you checked your power? Is it possible that your power drops out momentarily and not all parts of the system wake up properly ?

Agreed - I have a number of raspberry pi's and my early experience with them was not all USB power adapters and cables are created equally. Get a robust power brick and good cable and see if that helps. Re-image the card too as the power drops can corrupt the SD.
 
So it seems I'm good for now, but will look into the SSR that you are using (I've mostly skimmed over the SSR discussions in the thread). Is there a link to a guide/product you are using?

No specific guide but there are posts on the brewpi forum and here, just a bit of extra wiring to switch input side of the SSR from the relay then switch the fridge power from the SSR output side. I ordered one of the fotek ones off ebay (I'm in the UK but I'm sure they're available elsewhere, maybe a different brand..)
 
It'd be difficult to justify paying the current extortionate pricing on the Model 2 if all you're planning on doing with it is to run the BrewPi host code.



Cheers! :mug:


I got my pi2 for 35 bucks at mcm. Same price they've always been. I'll be getting mine in tomorrow I hope. Ill say this for the b+ it will run the brewpi code with no problem. But if you do like I did and run a screen in kiosk mode with 4 lcd read outs all going at once, that's the limit of the graphics. I cannot do anything else in gui on the pi itself. If I remote in I see no slowdows.
 
No specific guide but there are posts on the brewpi forum and here, just a bit of extra wiring to switch input side of the SSR from the relay then switch the fridge power from the SSR output side. I ordered one of the fotek ones off ebay (I'm in the UK but I'm sure they're available elsewhere, maybe a different brand..)

Why not switch the SSR directly from the Arduino Output?
 
Looks like my previous (first ever) post got delayed and thus buried/overlooked. I was wondering a few things about the difference between the originial BrewPi setup, and the one presented by awesome FuzzeWuzze:

◊) Since there is quite a difference in which and how the pins are used, do I need a different version of the program for the Arduino?

a) The sensors are connected to Pin 10 and 11 on the original setup, but in the one here, they are both connected to a single analogue input. Is there any disadvantage in using just one input channel (especially considering that there are so many unused ones)?

b) The original setup uses pins 3 through 9 to drive the LCD, while this setup employs a shift register, and thus uses only pins 10, 11 and 13. Why not use the original wiring without the pin shift register?

c) The original setup uses pins 12 and 13 for the relay, while here we use 5 and 6. Do I have to change the Arduino BrewPi software, or does it have the flexibility to change pin configuration afterwards?

d) The design here omits the rotary encoder. Those can be had for a buck or two on eBay. Can I just hook one up on pins 0, 1 and 2 and have it work?

e) The original design has an input for the fridge door, which has been omitted in this design. What does the fridge door switch do in BrewPi? Can I just add that "sensor" as per the original shield?

f) I want to install the RPI, Arduino, Relay and power converter all in one box. Should I add a little fan for ventilation, or is that overkill?
 
Highly inspiring thread. I've ordered all the necessary parts and while I wait for them to arrive, I've compared the original BrewPi and the one here. I hope I can ask about some of the differences I noticed (I read through a good chunk of this 292 page long thread; apologies if I ask something that has been answered before.):

I'll see if I can address all your questions, but right from the start, you are apparently comparing the original, Revision A BrewPi design to the current, Revision C BrewPi design.

◊) Since there is quite a difference in which and how the pins are used, do I need different software for the Arduino?

The Revision C BrewPi design (and derivatives you'll find scattered through this forum) use the Revision C software and Arduino AVR hex code. You would be well served if any implementation you want to come up with conforms to Revision C features.

a) The sensors are connected to Pin 10 and 11 on the original setup, but in the one here, they are both connected to a single analogue input. Is there any disadvantage in using just one input channel (especially considering that there are so many unused ones)?

You only need to use a single "One-Wire" port to service the limited number of devices that BrewPi is capable of handling. The Revision A BrewPi design used two One-Wire ports, for some reason not apparent to me. Follow the single One-Wire design of Revision C.

b) The original setup uses pins 3 through 9 to drive the LCD, while this setup employs a shift register, and thus uses only pins 10, 11 and 13. Why not use the original wiring without the pin shift register?

I don't know the history behind that decision, but it may have been to free up some code space within the AVR. I have an "Add an LCD to BrewPi" thread here that might be helpful.


c) The original setup uses pins 12 and 13 for the relay, while here we use 5 and 6. Do I have to change the Arduino BrewPi software, or does it have the flexibility to change pin configuration afterwards?

The BrewPi Revision C software and firmware only make available a subset of the Arduino pins for user configuration. There's not a lot of flexibility there, either. Follow the Revision C pin allocation scheme.

d) The design here omits the rotary encoder. Those can be had for a buck or two on eBay. Can I just hook one up on pins 0, 1 and 2 and have it work?

Not pins 0, 1 and 2, but 7, 8 and 9. Here's a diagram from the LCD thread I referenced that shows some of the connectivity.

254310d1423235066-how-brewpi-lcd-add-brewpi_lcd.jpg



e) The original design has an input for the fridge door, which has been omitted in this design. What does the fridge door switch do in BrewPi? Can I just add that "sensor" as per the original shield?

You can add the door switch connection to AVR pin 4, and if activated - and you have also set up a "Fridge Light" control pin - I believe BrewPi will turn on the light when the door opens.

This goes to BrewPi being taking over the fridge light as a "heater" - which then means BrewPi needs to turn the light on if you open the fridge.

f) I want to install the RPI, Arduino, Relay and power converter all in one box. Should I add a little fan for ventilation, or is that overkill?

I have all that plus an Arduino AlaMode (running RaspberryPints stuff) in a small metal enclosure and added a 40mm 5V "Super Quiet" fan (<= that's how it's advertised) to the back to pull air through the power supply and logic boards. I have it controlled by an RPi system process based on the SOC temperature reading. It may be overkill but that's kinda my thing ;)

Cheers!
 
Will the brewpi firmware work on the latest R3 version of Rasp pi.

It should work just fine. AFAIK, there is no firmware installed on the pi. The script should still work and install everything automatically. The actual "firmware" being installed is on the Arduino Uno. The new Pi2 is just an upgraded pi. Shouldnt be an issue.
 
Never occurred to me to do that, now you mention it though it is certainly a much more straight forward option, cheers ;)

Mr_so - so were you triggering the SSR from the sainsmart relay? I will pay more attention to how SSRs are being used from now on.
 
That was my initial plan yes, the thought of just using the output from the arduino never crossed my mind because the relay was there waiting to be used already, what can I say, I'm a therapist not an electrician :smack:
 
That was my initial plan yes, the thought of just using the output from the arduino never crossed my mind because the relay was there waiting to be used already, what can I say, I'm a therapist not an electrician :smack:

Helpful tip, Make sure you unplug it from the wall before touching anything :mug:

I dont need people electrocuting themselves building these things :tank:
 
Helpful tip, Make sure you unplug it from the wall before touching anything :mug:

I dont need people electrocuting themselves building these things :tank:

Thanks for the tip FuzzeWuzze, don't worry though I'm not totally clueless, just sometimes can't see the wood for the trees :D
 
I have been planning to purchase a chest freezer in the next few weeks with the hopes of simply using a STC1000 in a similar fashion to what I used for my keezer. Fortunately (or unfortunately) I've become a little obsessed with this thread to the point that I have acquired virtually all the required parts listed on Fuzze's initial post with the hopes of putting together a high quality fermenter. A friend from work gave me an old dell pc currently loaded with WindowsXP. I was hoping to load it with Debian Wheezy but I'm a little concerned it may be too primitive (it has Pentium 4 cpu 2.6ghz, 47 gb of free hard disc-space and only 504mb ram). I would appreciate hearing from anyone who might tell me if this pc is too underpowered to use as a Linux terminal for the fermenter. I can pick up additional 2 gb of RAM off of ebay for $16 but wonder if that is a waste of money.

I also am a little intimidated about loading Debian correctly on this PC. I have a copy of the debian .iso file on a flash drive but I was also wondering about hooking the pc up to the internet and downloading directly to the pc. My initial plans are to dual boot with Debian and windows on the same pc, understanding that I will have the opportunity to partition the hard drive during installation of Debian. It would not kill me to remove all the Windows stuff if necessary (but I don't know exactly how to do this). I would appreciate any advice about my initial plans.
 
I have been planning to purchase a chest freezer in the next few weeks with the hopes of simply using a STC1000 in a similar fashion to what I used for my keezer. Fortunately (or unfortunately) I've become a little obsessed with this thread to the point that I have acquired virtually all the required parts listed on Fuzze's initial post with the hopes of putting together a high quality fermenter. A friend from work gave me an old dell pc currently loaded with WindowsXP. I was hoping to load it with Debian Wheezy but I'm a little concerned it may be too primitive (it has Pentium 4 cpu 2.6ghz, 47 gb of free hard disc-space and only 504mb ram). I would appreciate hearing from anyone who might tell me if this pc is too underpowered to use as a Linux terminal for the fermenter. I can pick up additional 2 gb of RAM off of ebay for $16 but wonder if that is a waste of money.



I also am a little intimidated about loading Debian correctly on this PC. I have a copy of the debian .iso file on a flash drive but I was also wondering about hooking the pc up to the internet and downloading directly to the pc. My initial plans are to dual boot with Debian and windows on the same pc, understanding that I will have the opportunity to partition the hard drive during installation of Debian. It would not kill me to remove all the Windows stuff if necessary (but I don't know exactly how to do this). I would appreciate any advice about my initial plans.


I run Debian in a vm on a windows machine with 2.3ghz processor and I'm only allocating 512mb of ram to it. It runs plenty fast.

If you don't care about the windows os installed on the hd then you're in luck, cause installing Debian will most likely wipe it out completely unless you take the time to repartition. You could try out a live cd version of most Linux distros that won't affect your underlying system if you are concerned about performance. But given how low powered the rpi is I don't think you have anything to worry about.
 
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