Borisfa
Well-Known Member
My problem is related with lcd weird character. Anybody has this problem? What is the solution? I am using the suggested guide on the first post.
http://www.reddit.com/r/Roku/comments/1z80mb/problem_with_roku_3_wifi_interference/
I have been trying to figure out what's been going on with their networks for over a year. A soft reset gets you back up and running but WTF??? I'm no IT guy, though work likes to use me as one, so I had no idea that this could be the issue until I set it up on my network. I have had this brewpi running since June and Rpints with daytrippers logger running on another unit for months with out issue. Turns out they they have been good canaries in my mine, sota speak.
Anyway, I know the roku is a pretty popular device so I thought I would share. Not sure exactly how I'm going to fix the issue but at least it seems fairly easy (though extremely annoying) to manage.
If anyone has a roku and a brewpi running with out issue please let me know.
Edit: when the roku seemingly causes this issue it also basically kick all the devices off the network: phones, printers, laptops and cameras. I would think that severity may vary depending on the router. I have a cheap belkin I picked up years ago.
My apologies for the long post. I'm stuck in Charlotte waiting on my 3rd delayed flight this trip and I'm getting bored.
@day_trippr, it doent work properly. Starts working good, but after some cicles of start fridge and heater the lcd start showing weird characters. I will post some pictures tomorrow. And I built my own hardware, but like suggested on the first post of this thread.
@day_trippr, Arent there other simple way to fix my system? Add more capacitor??? I am asking it, because I have 2 system mounted and change it will be a hard work to me and I have no skill so good to do this.
Thanks,
Fabiano
If you want an LCD cheaper than $11 delivered you'll have to hit ebay.
Looks like you could cut the acquisition cost in half if you don't mind waiting...
Cheers!
user location = blank
As long as the 20x4 LCD uses an HD44780 and accepts parallel input it should work...
Cheers!
@day_trippr, I did lot of your suggestions and change the fridge (was a old frigde for a frostfree one) and after some cicles and after running 3 hours, still ok. Tomorrow I told you if still ok.That schematic is correct and really isn't materially different from what I did.
I noted that the pull-ups at the HC595 aren't needed as the rev C BrewPi AVR code apparently assigned pull-ups at the AVR. But having the pull-ups won't make the display more susceptible to noise.
The 100nf (= 0.1uf) cap is perfect.
More of them would be better
I also see a big electrolytic cap in the foreground straddling the 5V and GND rails. That would be an asset, but you have it installed reversed. The negative lead is clearly marked with the vertical stripe on the right - and you have that side plugged into the 5V header. Might want to fix that
Also, that schematic shows the electrolytic cap placed at the LCD, not the Uno.
Only Elco knows if that's significant.
You might want to try soldering it directly to the LCD pins to see if it makes any difference.
If the problem is related to noise incurred when a relay is switched, most likely that's voltage or ground noise that's coupling back to the HC595 (which is a total glitch-catcher). The point that the relay module draws its coil voltage wants to be as close to the power supply as possible and away from the shift register.
Also, break up the parallel wires (pull them apart) to help avoid coupling clocks to data signals. Specifically the three signal connections between the Uno and the shift register, and the wires to LCD pins 4 and 6, should not be run parallel within their respective groups for the entire ~8" of jumper wire.
Using SCRs instead of relays might resolve DC noise problems, but they introduce other issues like control input requirements - I don't think you can drive an SCR directly from the Uno - and heat dissipation. So there's a trade-off.
More if I think of it...
Cheers!
@day_trippr, I did lot of your suggestions and change the fridge (was a old frigde for a frostfree one) and after some cicles and after running 3 hours, still ok. Tomorrow I told you if still ok.
I solder the capacitor directly on lcd, decouple wires, change some positions of ground and 5v....
Obs: sorry for my English.
Fabiano
$ git clone https://github.com/BrewPi/brewpi-tools.git ~/brewpi-tools
$ sudo ~/brewpi-tools/install.sh
@day_trippr, thanks again. Still working good without weird characters.
I would like to ask how close beer temperature (BT) near to set point (SP). If you look to picture attached, you can see that the BT is not too close to SP. I imagene that a good difference was 0.1°C and not almost 0.4°C (like we can see).
What parameter should I adjust to decrease the error, without add overshooting?
I would like to ask how close beer temperature (BT) near to set point (SP). If you look to picture attached, you can see that the BT is not too close to SP. I imagene that a good difference was 0.1°C and not almost 0.4°C (like we can see).
I'm assuming you're here.
There are indeed two commands there.
Code:$ git clone https://github.com/BrewPi/brewpi-tools.git ~/brewpi-tools $ sudo ~/brewpi-tools/install.sh
The first one goes and grabs the files at the target on Github, the second one executes the installation script.
There's no password required for either step. Not sure what's prompting that...
Cheers!
@day_trippr, thanks again. Still working good without weird characters.
I would like to ask how close beer temperature (BT) near to set point (SP). If you look to picture attached, you can see that the BT is not too close to SP. I imagene that a good difference was 0.1°C and not almost 0.4°C (like we can see).
What parameter should I adjust to decrease the error, without add overshooting?
Thanks
Fabiano
After running the first command, it returns :
Cloning into '~brewpi-tools'...
Username for' https://github.com':
It sounds like this isn't common, so I'm wondering if I've just got something wrong in my Raspian setup. I'm really new at this.
The other possibility that I've just noticed on mine is that after a reset of brewpi is assigned the temp probes the wrong way round beer as fridge and fridge to beer.
Whilst it was doing this my beer temp swung 1-2c either side of my water
Hmm....What does "reset of brewpi" actually mean?
I've never seen BrewPi lose track of device assignments - unless the Uno was re-programmed without restoring previous settings...
Cheers!
Awesome! Good job!
How do you have the Beer probe connected to your fermenting vessel?
Looking at the chart, it appears to me that the Beer temperature plot is tracking the Fridge plot very closely (with an offset, of course). There's very little slope difference between what is visible between the two curves, which makes me think the thermal coupling and/or isolation aren't optimal.
Not certain which settings you'd change to tighten up the Beer temp without seeing what you have right now...
Cheers!
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