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How To Send In Water For Ward Labs Test

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Those filters do not remove the constituents that Ward will be testing, so you can draw your sample with or without the filter. It won't matter.
 
Just a heads up that I placed an order for supplies and the shipping label online. When I received nothing I called and they basically said they are stopping sending supplies and pre-paying shipping for brewing tests. I asked if she could look up my order to at least see if anything had already been sent and apparently my order was deleted from their system all together! I received an email after my order was placed saying that to send in samples was easy and that I could use my own bottle, but nothing definitive like "your order is cancelled and you will not be receiving supplies". I complained to the person on the phone and she understood and said they are in the process of re-wording the email because of these issues.

I'm finding it VERY hard to find a water bottle that will fit into a small flat rate box. Even 8 oz. bottles have the same diameter as the larger ones which makes it bulge out. I'm thinking I might just use a larger bottle, not fully fill it, and squeeze out some of the air to make it fit more comfortably.
 
I'm thinking I might just use a larger bottle, not fully fill it, and squeeze out some of the air to make it fit more comfortably.

Your thinking is dead-on target. They don't need much of a sample at all. Half an Arrowhead bottle, squish it flat, and it'll fit fine in the smallest flat-rate box.
 
Also, if you squeeze out all the air, it won't make a swishing sound for those who might bring this into the post office. You can go online and print out your own paid label for those of you who want to just put it in a drop box.
 
Instructions will tell you to remove the aerator from your faucet, let the water run for a couple of minutes, reduce the flow rate, fill the bottle to overflowing and then cap on the overflowing water. The object is to prevent interchange of CO2 between the water and the headspace. This throws the alkalinity reading off. Of course if the lab is not careful in the way they treat the sample your extra care is wasted.
 
Instructions will tell you to remove the aerator from your faucet, let the water run for a couple of minutes, reduce the flow rate, fill the bottle to overflowing and then cap on the overflowing water. The object is to prevent interchange of CO2 between the water and the headspace. This throws the alkalinity reading off. Of course if the lab is not careful in the way they treat the sample your extra care is wasted.

Actually, Ward Labs' instructions are as follows:

Water Sampling Procedures
1. Use a clean plastic container for submitting your sample. Bottles can be obtained from the laboratory.

2. Rinse the container several times with water that is being sampled. Send at least one-half pint of water to be tested.

3. Wells should be pumped several hours before sampling. Test wells should be sampled after pipe and screen are in place. Pump well for at least 10 hours before sampling.

4. Samples of lakes, streams, and ponds should be taken from below surface.

5. If it is not possible to send the sample to the lab immediately after collection, refrigerate until it is sent.
 
Actually, Ward Labs' instructions are as follows:

I guess I need to reword to: Instructions should say.... Most labs instructions are clear on this point. Remember that Ward Labs primarily serves agricultural users whose needs are not quite the same as brewers. As they mishandle the carbonate/bicarbonate calculation I guess I shouldn't be surprised that they are lax in instruction on how to obtain a sample for an accurate alkalinity measurement.
 
I'm a bit confused by that "beer test." Is it supposed to be for samples of your beer or your brewing water (Looks like water, but...).

If I'm reading this right, the only difference between the three tests is:

1. Both the Household Complete and Beer test iron, Household doesn't
2. Beer tests phosphorous, the other two don't
3. Household Complete tests fluoride the other two don't.
4. The Household Complete reports "Hardness" and the Beer and Household report "Hardness (Lime)"

So what is the difference between "Hardness" and "Hardness (Lime)"?

Again, assuming that this "Beer" analysis is for water and not actual beer, I don't see any reason to go with that rather than the usual Household. I saw Bobby_M upthread a page or 2 suggesting an analysis that would maybe eliminate things like conductivity and TDS and add chlorine/chloramine. That would be worthwhile.

Am I misunderstanding something?
 
Don't bother with the more expensive testing. It provides information that is relatively meaningless to brewing. You don't need to know what the phosphorus or fluorine levels are in your water and you can typically tell if the iron content is too high by your own tasting. So, the iron test is useless too.

That $16.50 test is all you need to quantify your brewing water. Save that extra $10 for something worthwhile!
 
For those of you who have city water reports, have you noticed a big difference between what the city reports and what you actually have?
 
Sent my water sample out last Friday. I am hoping to get results before this weekend. I plan on brewing a batch of BM's Centennial Blonde this weekend and I want to make sure my water is going to work for a lighter beer.
 
Im confused as how to pay if you just send in a sample without ordering the kit. How does that work, do you pay online after they receive the sample?
 
You could just send a check with the sample. When I sent my sample I left the check out of the package :drunk: They emailed me an invoice along with the results. I think I called them and gave them a CC, but you could also just mail a check.
 
Im confused as how to pay if you just send in a sample without ordering the kit. How does that work, do you pay online after they receive the sample?

they suggested to use a 16.5 oz water bottle ....i packed it in a small box full of peanuts .

good to go.

GD:mug:
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I've got a vacuum sealer that will allow me to vacuum pack liquids (it's a chamber sealer). Do you think that sending a pouch of water would be OK? It would definitely minimize headspace, and I can be sure that it'll fit in a flat-rate box.

Anyone see problems with this approach?
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I've got a vacuum sealer that will allow me to vacuum pack liquids (it's a chamber sealer). Do you think that sending a pouch of water would be OK? It would definitely minimize headspace, and I can be sure that it'll fit in a flat-rate box.

Anyone see problems with this approach?

Yes. You have to rely on other people to pack their packages correctly...which never happens.
 
when speaking to wards lab, inc.....before sending a sample, they suggested a 16 oz bottled water bottle.....dump the water rinse out with the sample water a few time fill and send it on. and that's what I did. ......used an aqua fina bottle.

cheers
GD51
 
Make sure write at least your phone number on the bottle with a market, in case it gets separated from the paperwork.
 
+1 on the price... was just talking to someone about this and was quoted about $16. Price is $39.60 for brewers test or $28.60 for the wt6 test which is only less iron and phosphorus (which isn't on my radar at this point).

I had planned to send my household water and also a sample of spring water from the grocery store i've been using followed by a sample of "RO" water from the grocery store just to see what i'm working with.

Anyone know of another lab that does the same testing?
 
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