How to build a 5 gal, 110v eBIAB kettle

[looneybomber]

With the heating elements at the bottom of the pot, how do you stir the LME to keep from burning against those elements? Is there a way to mount high heat density heating elements to the bottom exterior of a pot?

 

[tre9er]

You could mount through the bottom allowing you to stir around it. Just need a hole thru the surface it rests on

 

[Disintegr8or]

With the heating elements at the bottom of the pot, how do you stir the LME to keep from burning against those elements? Is there a way to mount high heat density heating elements to the bottom exterior of a pot?

My first brew in this kettle was a 9lb LME recipe.

I heated 6.5 gal of water (5.5 gal batch) to about 170-180 and drained enough into my 1 gallon pitcher to mix in half of the LME. I then stirred that into the kettle. I added another 3/4 gallon to my pitcher and mixed in the rest of the LME, dumped into the kettle and brought to a boil.

No scorching or anything.

 

[tre9er]

You can add extract near the very end of the boil to minimize carmelizing. It is fine that way and can actually produce a more clear beer.

 

[ApolloSpeed]

(2) total Type 304 Stainless STL Locknut 1” NPS

http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-hose-fittings/=g9xuv3

i found everything except the locknut...can you fix your link or give a part number?

 

[Disintegr8or]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#4464K586

There you go. Sorry bout that.

 

[drocu]

Fantastic walk through! I like that this design allows the use of 110V while skipping some of the complexity of other electric builds. I'll probably even skip the weldless kit since I still use an immersion chiller and siphon which will make this design even simpler.

 

[tre9er]

I essentially did this with a 32qt. Aluminum stockpot ($27 on instawares.com), two ULWD Camco 1500W elements (~$15 each, they are only 4" long) and some pvc conduit junction boxes. Total cost was close to $100 because the 12g. extension cord I had to buy to get to my two dedicated outlets. I plan to re-wire those outlets so I don't need extension cords.

Oh, I wired the cords into a double gang switch box so I can switch the elements on and off individually without unplugging them. Takes both to roll a boil but some times I turn one off to slow down sparge water if mash isn't quite done, or to control a very full boil.

I love this setup. Brewing in the basement, cheap, no noxious gasses or open flames.

 

[Disintegr8or]

This setup has been working great so far.

Last brew day I had to do 2 brews, so I decided to mash in a cooler while I was heating strike water in the kettle for the 2nd brew. I'll tell you, that is the way to go if you don't mind moving a little water around. You can skip a PID completely because the cooler is so efficient at maintaining temps.

After the strike water was heated to 190 for the 2nd brew (heated extra high to allow for cooling off until I got the first batch out of the cooler and back into the kettle) I drained grains and water both into the kettle with bag inside and mashed out like normal.

I think I am going to use this method for future brews. Even though it isn't technically BIAB anymore, I have the ability to mash in a cooler and not have to worry about a stuck sparge.

 

[Tinga]

Is there a good solid build thread for the controller? or a post number for a build int he brutus thread? I looked through it a bit but I'm having trouble finding a good plan for the controller.

 

[Disintegr8or]

Is there a good solid build thread for the controller? or a post number for a build int he brutus thread? I looked through it a bit but I'm having trouble finding a good plan for the controller.

I'll put one together for you. I built mine from the Countertop Brutus thread.

 

[Tinga]

I'll put one together for you. I built mine from the Countertop Brutus thread.

I don't really know you but I think I love you. Thank you.

 

[IrregularPulse]

The CB20 is a great controller.

 

[billysparrows]

Ditto on the detailed wiring write up...great thread tho. I want to tackle a similar build, but my electrical engineer brother is too busy to wire it up for me so I'll have to tackle it myself. I definitely need the wiring diagram.

 

[Disintegr8or]

Guys I've been super busy at work, and haven't had time to do a write-up on the controller. I will do one ASAP.

I've been doing double brews lately and using an unmodified cooler to mash in, so I haven't been using the controller at all. Just watching the dial thermometer that I stick through the hole in the lid.

 

[fugazzi]

Subbing, this is something I'm interested in as well.

 

[Derick_Z]

Fantastic. This is exactly what I was looking for! Any thoughts on using 2 2000 watt elements? I don't really know much of anything about electric brewing so I'm not sure how/if that would work, but it seems it would help get to boil faster right? Is it ok to plug both the elements in to one wall outlet, or should they be plugged in to separate outlets? (Not one like use a splitter and plug them both in to one, but one like the top and bottom of a normal two-socket outlet).

Thanks!

EDIT: Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLVBW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[tre9er]

Fantastic. This is exactly what I was looking for! Any thoughts on using 2 2000 watt elements? I don't really know much of anything about electric brewing so I'm not sure how/if that would work, but it seems it would help get to boil faster right? Is it ok to plug both the elements in to one wall outlet, or should they be plugged in to separate outlets? (Not one like use a splitter and plug them both in to one, but one like the top and bottom of a normal two-socket outlet).

Thanks!

EDIT: Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLVBW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Each element needs to be on a 20A breaker with nothing else on the circuit. Otherwise you'll not only overload the wiring, but hopefully trip the breaker often (to keep you safe, albeit inconvenient while brewing).

I use two 120v elements, each on their own independent circuit with nothing else consuming power.

 

[Derick_Z]

Each element needs to be on a 20A breaker with nothing else on the circuit. Otherwise you'll not only overload the wiring, but hopefully trip the breaker often (to keep you safe, albeit inconvenient while brewing).

I use two 120v elements, each on their own independent circuit with nothing else consuming power.

Houses are normally wired with 1 circuit in a room, right? But I thought those were 15A circuits not 20. If I'm not mistaken, bathrooms and kitchens often have 20A though, correct? How can I tell what each circuit is rated for? Is there anyway to tell what outlets are on what circuit short of turning off the breaker and seeing what still works?

 

[BrothOfVigor]

My house has multiple rooms on a single breaker, some rooms with multiple, and we only have 20A; so it is pretty case specific.

They make little gizmos that you can plug into an outlet, then hover a remote thingy over your breaker box and it will beep at the breaker that the gizmo is plugged into. Sorry I don't know what it's called. Breaker Locater maybe? It's pretty helpful and not too pricey. If you haven't mapped your house or labeled your box yet it may be worth investing in.

 

[Derick_Z]

Well I'm in college and plan to go to law school so for the next few years, I'll be on the move fairly regularly. I'm not going to invest in a system that requires anything more than a normal outlet, and I'd *really* like to make sure that I could keep using this regardless of what rental property I may be in next year. Is it a safe bet that anywhere will have 20A? Or do older houses have less? 2 1650Watt elements would draw 13.75 amps each, meaning they could be run on two separate 15amp circuits, right? Then I imagine I could sit the rig on my counter or somewhere near an outlet, plug in one element there, and run an extension cord to another outlet on a different circuit, right? I'd like the 2,000watt elements for faster heating and *possibly* doing larger batches down the road, but I'd also obviously like it to be compatible EVERYWHERE, not just some houses.

 

[Disintegr8or]

Well I'm in college and plan to go to law school so for the next few years, I'll be on the move fairly regularly. I'm not going to invest in a system that requires anything more than a normal outlet, and I'd *really* like to make sure that I could keep using this regardless of what rental property I may be in next year. Is it a safe bet that anywhere will have 20A? Or do older houses have less? 2 1650Watt elements would draw 13.75 amps each, meaning they could be run on two separate 15amp circuits, right? Then I imagine I could sit the rig on my counter or somewhere near an outlet, plug in one element there, and run an extension cord to another outlet on a different circuit, right? I'd like the 2,000watt elements for faster heating and *possibly* doing larger batches down the road, but I'd also obviously like it to be compatible EVERYWHERE, not just some houses.

Yes. Worst case you could plug one into the Kitchen and one into the Bathroom GFI's and use an extension cord.

I brewed at a friends house with this kettle and did just that. Worked, you just have an extension cord to deal with.

 

[tre9er]

Yes. Worst case you could plug one into the Kitchen and one into the Bathroom GFI's and use an extension cord.

I brewed at a friends house with this kettle and did just that. Worked, you just have an extension cord to deal with.

I actually have two 25' 12g. ext cords that are wired into a double gang box that has two switched outlets (one per cord). I plug those cords into outlets on either side of my basement. One was for a water softener that's no longer in use and the other is for the washing machine. My breaker box has them labeled and using christmas lights I was able to verify when I tripped the breaker, that I had the right outlet.

I use a 1500w and a 1650w element. I put the 1650 into the 20A outlet and the 1500 in a 15A outlet. Eventually I'll extend those outlets with Romex and not have to use extension cords. The current cords only reach so far anyway and thus I have to put my HLT somewhere I'd rather not as it interferes with access to the sink (it's above and to the left, but still kinda "in the way" when I have the hose attached to run off strike/sparge water).

 

[Derick_Z]

And I suppose if I only have access to one 20A circuit, there's nothing I can do? Some apartments I've been looking at for next year are a little older so I may call and ask about the circuitry. I'd assume they've got at least 2 20amp circuits per unit, but I'm not really sure..

 

[tre9er]

And I suppose if I only have access to one 20A circuit, there's nothing I can do? Some apartments I've been looking at for next year are a little older so I may call and ask about the circuitry. I'd assume they've got at least 2 20amp circuits per unit, but I'm not really sure..

Typically the Kitchen and bathrooms are each on their own 15-20A circuit as the appliances that are used in there (blenders, food processors, hair dryers, etc.) consume a fair amount of power. I'd be somewhat surprised if an apartment was on just one 20A circuit unless it was a studio.

You can always do partial boil or smaller batches. You CAN boil water with one single element, but it will take longer. I've boiled 5g. with my 1650w by itself, so a 3-4g. batch would be possible, or shoot for a higher OG, more IBU's and dilute. Software can help you do that.

 

[inhousebrew]

So, I'm a little confused here. You have listed 1" Stainless Steel Locknuts for kettle insulation but aren't water heater elements an 1 1/4"?

 

[WildPirate]

I'd still like to see the controller in detail if possible, ordering everything to make this setup today.

 

[Wagon_6]

So, I'm a little confused here. You have listed 1" Stainless Steel Locknuts for kettle insulation but aren't water heater elements an 1 1/4"?

I followed the parts list exactly and it worked so the 1,650 watt element is 1".

 

[jCOSbrew]

1" NPT for element and lock nut. OD of element threads is approx 1.25".

 

[inhousebrew]

I have a rather dumb question. Well maybe not, well see.

So, I'm thinking of attaching my element this way and was wondering about grounding the element. If I don't want to solder the wire (because I don't have the tools available) could I just screw in a any old screw and attach the grounding wire to that on the inside. In most conduit boxes it looks like the grounding is just a screw on the inside, can I just recreate this or am I probably going to kill myself?