How much to pay for Keggle?

[dallasdb]

I'm making the jump from extract to all grain and am in the market for a keggle. I've found some on Craigslist and I've also found some online.

What would you be willing to pay for a keggle with just a ball valve?

What would you be willing to pay for a keggle with ball valve, thermometer built in, and sight glass?

I want to make sure I'm not getting ripped off here and I don't see too many places that actually sell keggles.

Is there a company that sells them?

I know there are a lot of questions but I really just want to know how much I should expect to pay and how much you've purchased yours for. I don't want to make one myself I'd rather just buy one. Thanks!

 

[djsethall]

Sabco sells em. If you like it with no lube and no kiss afterwards. You can get a angle grinder and cutting discs from harbor freight for less than $25. A keg (free-$50) SS coupling from www.buyfittingsonline.com for $2-$4. I found that if I cut the top off the keg and showed my local welder where to put the coupler that it cost me $30. www.directmaterials.com sells ss ball valves for $12-$14. Add that up and you have the basic cost of a keggle. If the person sells them, they are probably using that money to help fund their brewing or are getting out of the brewing hobby. Either way, it's always good to support the locals (except for great ss fittings deals). How much are they asking for the keggle on CL?

 

[Sawdustguy]

Try Terry at Kegglebrewing.com.

 

[wildcatvictory]

Most that I have seen online, CL, or whatever, people are pretty proud of= $$

Find a buddy to weld bring a 12 pack of home brew...

 

[Sawdustguy]

Most that I have seen online, CL, or whatever, people are pretty proud of= $$

Find a buddy to weld bring a 12 pack of home brew...

I thought the original poster made it abuntantly clear he did not want to build them himself.

I don't want to make one myself I'd rather just buy one. Thanks!

 

[Photopilot]

If you are not willing to do it yourself you pay whatever they are charging.

I paid under $100 to build mine including all hardware and the keg. The professional welding cost a few beers. It looks like a full setup from kegglebrewing runs $399. For that much money I would consider a Blichman Boilermaker.

 

[Sawdustguy]

If you are not willing to do it yourself you pay whatever they are charging.

I paid under $100 to build mine including all hardware and the keg. The professional welding cost a few beers. It looks like a full setup from kegglebrewing runs $399. For that much money I would consider a Blichman Boilermaker.

Wrong.....It's $275. The $399 price is for the Mash Tun with False Bottom. If the OP is a beginner he should consider using a cooler as a Mash Tun because it is much less expensive, easier to learn and can produce stellar results. With a good cooler he will not have to worry about using a RIMS or HERMS to keep the Mash Tun temperature constant. I do however think he could find a good brew pot with a valve for less that $275.

 

[Photopilot]

If the OP is a beginner he should consider using a cooler as a Mash Tun

I agree. I use a cooler and it works like a champ.

I still think at $275 for a keggle, I would consider other options. As much as I like my keggle I would not mind something shorter and wider without the added texture a keggle has. I just read that Blichman are back ordered nowadays though.

 

[dallasdb]

Sabco sells em. How much are they asking for the keggle on CL?

Sabco is extremely overpriced! I might as well splurge on a Blichmann for that price. I've seen some pretty nice ones on CL for around $200-225. I've seen keg shells with the lid cut off for around $85 but then I'd need to find the sight glass, thermometer, ball valve etc.

Do you think $225 is a fair price for complete keggle with sight glass, built in thermometer, and stainless ball valve?

Is there any advantage to weldless fittings? I was thinking they'd be easier to clean.

 

[Mischief_Brewing]

Sanke 15.5 gallon keg = ??
2-piece SS ball valve = $15.50 (bargainfittings.com)
3-piece SS ball valve = $24.99 (bargainfittings.com)
2-piece brass ball valve = $6.00 (bargainfittings.com)
Keg bulkhead kit (weldless) = $12.00 (bargainfittings.com)
Site Glass kit (weldless) = $24.95 (BobbyM)
Site Glass Kit with thermo (weldless) = $39.99 (Bobby M)
Labor to cut and install components = ??

Total = ??

Feel free to fill in the "??" with your own experience.

 

[Flomaster]

dallasdb only you can determine if that price is fair. for back purged SS welded keggle with the bells and whistles its not bad.

but figure on the high side ball valve is $25 and sight glass is $25 so thats 50 right there, if you go weld-less bulkhead you are looking at more money, but its as easy as drilling a hole.


I personally wouldn't spend that seeing as I scored my kegs for $60 for 3 of them. I did the work my self and soldering the couplings onto them.

I save a butt load of money my local welder wanted $75 an hour to weld and he charged 1 hour minimum

-=Jason=-

 

[JetSmooth]

I'm doing this same math right now.

My issue is finding a welder in my area that won't charge me $100 an hour and a full hour's work for the weld.

Thinking of soldering/brazing and asking another forumite to help with that.

 

[BendBrewer]

I cut the top off of one of my 2 kegs. Cleaned it out and decided I really like pots.

Keggles seem to be the DIY'er or poor mans way to go about it. (no offense to anyone) If you are going to spend money, buy pots. The only advantage that I see with kegs is if you can get them for free or dirt cheap. Once you start paying decent money for them, it defeats the purpose IMO.

 

[Flomaster]

I'm doing this same math right now.

My issue is finding a welder in my area that won't charge me $100 an hour and a full hour's work for the weld.

Thinking of soldering/brazing and asking another forumite to help with that.

if you already have the soldering torch then its a $10 kit from your local AirGas Supply house for solder and liquid Flux.

then another $30 or so for the "Keg Tool" still making this come out cheaper than having it welded

-=jason=-

 

[Golddiggie]

If the OP is a beginner he should consider using a cooler as a Mash Tun because it is much less expensive, easier to learn and can produce stellar results. With a good cooler he will not have to worry about using a RIMS or HERMS to keep the Mash Tun temperature constant. I do however think he could find a good brew pot with a valve for less that $275.

I agree with the comment about using a cooler for the mash tun. Especially if you already have a decent sized cooler that can be converted.

For making a kettle, depending on the base pot, you could make a 15 gallon kettle for about $100-$110, with a ball valve. You can always add additional fittings onto it later... For about that much I was able to convert a new 60 quart aluminum stock pot (4mm thich, from a restaurant supplier) into a kettle. One conditioning boil and it was used (conditioned it before we boiled a 10 gallon batch in it)... Before I use it again, I'll probably adjust the way the valve is in it, although it's sealing so I might just leave it alone.

If you can locate a decent sized pot, for a good rate, I'd just use that and install the fittings yourself. Aluminum is FAR easier to drill into than stainless steel. But if you can get a SS pot, that's heavy enough, go for it. Just make sure you use a good step bit, and plenty of lube on it.

Personally, I'm loving my 32 quart aluminum kettle (also from the restaurant supplier, I fitted it with the ball valve) for 5 gallon batches. Using the cooler MT also makes things so much easier than BIAB.

If you do go the cooler route, I would advise getting the largest one you can afford. Especially if you're planning on making 10 gallon batches at some point. 60 quart would be a decent sized, 70 quart (the size I have) would be great too... At 70 quarts, you can mash about 45# of grain with ease. That's one BIG brew, or a large batch of a moderate OG brew...

 

[Atvar]

Old Keg - $30
Weldless ball valve, thermometer and sight glass combo - $82
Diptube and parts from Home Depot - $12
Grinder and bits for Keg conversion - "free" since I already had the equipment.
Total - $124

 

[Elshauno]

Get a Penrose Kettle they are already setup with a ball valve sent to your door for 160 go here brewhemoth.com. Nice thick 15.5 gallon pot sent to your door and if your order by today they will customized it with an extra 1/2 welded fitting for a thrumometer for like 15 bucks After today they are dropping the customization since they are flying out the door like hotcakes and getting behind on orders. I'm waiting on mine Either way good luck.

 

[Flomaster]

Get a Penrose Kettle they are already setup with a ball valve sent to your door for 160 go here brewhemoth.com. Nice thick 15.5 gallon pot sent to your door and if your order by today they will customized it with an extra 1/2 welded fitting for a thrumometer for like 15 bucks After today they are dropping the customization since they are flying out the door like hotcakes and getting behind on orders. I'm waiting on mine Either way good luck.

they just updated on facebook they have an assistance now and will be doing customizations again

-=Jason=-

 

[Elshauno]

Awesome! Hopefully that means that they will get caught up and get my Kettle to me soon.

 

[dallasdb]

2-piece SS ball valve = $15.50 (bargainfittings.com)
3-piece SS ball valve = $24.99 (bargainfittings.com)
2-piece brass ball valve = $6.00 (bargainfittings.com)

Wow, so there are a lot of choices when it comes to ball valves. I've only ever had brass from Home Depot!

Is there really a big difference between the three?
Does the brass tainted your beer flavor?
I assume stainless is better but why a 3 piece over 2 piece?

 

[Golddiggie]

Brass is perfectly fine for in the mash tun and kettle... I've heard that you don't want it in contact with fermenting wort though.

I would just make sure you use 1/2" ball valves, or larger. I have brass ones in my two kettles and cooler MT... the flow from the 1/2" size is much better than the 3/8" size... Might not seem like a big difference, but it's enough to really notice.

 

[dallasdb]

Brass is perfectly fine for in the mash tun and kettle

If brass is fine, why do people pay more than double for a stainless?

 

[Flomaster]

SS is a harder metal than brass
SS doesn't leach anything bad into the beer
SS shines up and looks bling
SS ball valve come in an easy to take apart 3 piece design, where are 3 peice brass valves are not so easy to take apart and clean.
SS is more expensive than brass

I only have copper and brass for the pickup tube and whirlpool return tube in my boil kettle. I was so cheap to spend $20 a piece on the compression fittings in order to use SS tubing.

-=Jason=-

 

[Golddiggie]

The SS ball valve assemblies at the LHBS I visit are only $5-10 more than the brass models (brass running about $30 for the entire assembly)...

Stainless is a better idea if you're installing into a conical, or making a SS fermenter. Sometimes people want them for SS pots (converting them into kettles) so that it's all the same type of metal (a more visual thing).

I had the guy at the LHBS look it up before I picked up the last set of assemblies, to make sure it wouldn't be a bad thing... He found reference that using brass would actually be a good thing for the wort.

Personally, I'm using aluminum pots for my kettles, with brass no weld valve assemblies installed... I have two brews that have gone through that configuration so far, both are still fermenting. One of them could be getting bottled within the next week, or so.

I would think, that IF brass was bad, or not a viable item for being in contact with the wort, it would be common knowledge, in stickies here, and the people at the HBS stores/sites wouldn't be even offering them for sale...

Look at it this way, brass ball valves, and gate valves, are used all over the place, that comes in contact with drinking water. Even hot water... IF there was any chance that it could be bad, building code would relegate them to just the cold water side, or eliminate them completely. Brass ball valves can easily withstand boiling temperatures without issue. They're used in that situation often enough...

IF you WANT to get a stainless valve assembly, go right ahead. But if it's just for the brewing, and not fermenting, you're doing it as a choice, not out of necessity...

 

[Golddiggie]

SS doesn't leach anything bad into the beer

I'd be very interested in seeing any actual documentation showing that brass ball valves will put anything harmful into a boiling wort.

SS ball valve come in an easy to take apart 3 piece design, where are 3 peice brass valves are not so easy to take apart and clean.
SS is more expensive than brass

I can see this having use in a conical, but in a boil kettle? Sounds more like bling than necessity to me.

I only have copper and brass for the pickup tube and whirlpool return tube in my boil kettle. I was so cheap to spend $20 a piece on the compression fittings in order to use SS tubing.

I have one brass ball valve in my cooler MT, and then just one in each of my boil kettles... I've seen plenty of others with the same metal for valves in their gear too...

If you're just starting out, and looking to save funds where it actually makes sense to, then brass ball valves is one place... I wouldn't use anything but stainless for the wort once the yeast is pitched in though.

Doing a quick search shows that brass can actually be made with different elements in it (other than the base copper and zinc)... I would be interested in knowing what the actual alloy composition is of the valves I have. Looking up the markings on them doesn't pull up the alloy info... Since it's made for water applications, I would tend to assume that it will be safe from anything harmful coming off of it.

 

[Flomaster]

you'd be surprised what nasty CHIT is in your Boil Kettle Ball valve if you have never taken it apart and only "flushed" it with hot oxy solution. its best to have a solid cleaning regimen in place. if nasties can get in there they will.

I know some brass contains lead, this is the brass I refer to when saying it can leach into your precious.

I work in a waterworks industry and you'd be surpised what grows inside the backflow devices, water meters, brass valves used for potable water.


-=Jason=-

 

[Golddiggie]

Thing I see is that it's only SOME of the brass has lead in it... They can use silicon instead to get the same effect, without it being toxic. So unless you can actually get the source of the valve to tell you what the alloy is, I don't think you'll ever really know. Well, unless you send it out to a lab to be analyzed. But, at that point with what you're spending for the testing, you would have been better off just using SS. I think it has more to do with your own, personal, comfort level.

I would expect that a ball valve designed/sold for being used in a kettle would be safe for use in contact with hot wort. That's what mine are.

I do keep my ball valves clean... I don't use oxyclean since I'm using aluminum kettles. I have brushes that I can run through them to ensure no crap is stuck in there. For the MT, I ran StarSan through the assembly after cleaning it. I will inspect it before use each time though. Although, I'm not as concerned about that setup. Since the ball valve in the kettle is sanitized during the boil, on the inner part, and I've cleaned the bore, and outer facing part as much as one can expect, I think I'll be fine.

Of course, now I'll be inspecting them even closer before brew day...

 

[Sawdustguy]

Thing I see is that it's only SOME of the brass has lead in it... They can use silicon instead to get the same effect, without it being toxic. So unless you can actually get the source of the valve to tell you what the alloy is, I don't think you'll ever really know. Well, unless you send it out to a lab to be analyzed. But, at that point with what you're spending for the testing, you would have been better off just using SS. I think it has more to do with your own, personal, comfort level.

The brass has lead in it to made it easier to solder.

 

[Golddiggie]

The brass has lead in it to made it easier to solder.

From what I found online, the lead was to make it flow better into the moldes... At least for ball valves. Since these are TREADED valves, no soldering will be performed on them... Not to rule out people soldering OTHER ball valves...

I still think that anything offered for the explicit purpose of use to convert a pot into a beer brewing KETTLE will be completely safe for that use. That's not the same thing as the ones you might pick up from Lowe's or HD though...