How much $$$ does it cost YOU a batch?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm not sure I can swing 55 lbs at a time yet, but maybe 10 lbs?

Not much discount buying 10lbs, but 55lbs can go fast if you plan your brewing right. If you're brewing all grain, you can easily make 55lbs disappear in 4-5 batches.

Just plan on your next few batches using a common base malt like American pale 2 row.
 
Depends on what I'm brewing but I regularly do 10 gal of my Pale Ale for under $15

Or as I cal it: '10 Under 15 Pale Ale'

Mostly bulk grain (some not), homegrown hops and cultured yeast from a bottle or saved from a previous cake. :mug:
 
I know about Hops Direct for bulk hops. Where is the best place to get grains bulk? I'm not sure I can swing 55 lbs at a time yet, but maybe 10 lbs?
A 50# sack of 2Row is only going to cost you $45ish. 10# will only get you through a batch...
 
Giving a figure is practically irrelevant without exploring the type of beer brewed, and the volumes, methods & motivations of each individual brewer. If the only goal is to achieve the cheapest possible glass of beer, probably best to go to the supermarket and stock up on whatever swill the BMCs have on sale this weekend.....
 
Giving a figure is practically irrelevant without exploring the type of beer brewed, and the volumes, methods & motivations of each individual brewer. If the only goal is to achieve the cheapest possible glass of beer, probably best to go to the supermarket and stock up on whatever swill the BMCs have on sale this weekend.....

Actually several did give the type of beer they were brewing


I was gonna ask how you pull that off, but now that I think about it, if you buy in bulk, etc, its totally possible.

Your Haus Pale, at bulk prices:

8lbs 2 row @ .70/lb = $6
2lb Vienna @ .75/lb = $1.50
2 oz Cascade @ $18/lb = $2.25
Yeast (washed, etc) = $0
-----------------------------------
$9.75




For me, extract was, what, $35-$40 a batch? All grain is probably costing me about $80/batch with all the crap I keep buying (kegs, burner, etc), but probably $15-20 for ingredients.
If you get higher than 75%, it gets even cheaper.

my last beer was Eds Bavarian Hefeweizen 10 gallons

12 lbs wheat @73 Cents per pound =8.76
6 pounds Pilsner @ 70 cents per pound =4.20
1 lbs rice hulls free Thanks to Bad Coffee
1 Packet 3068 = 5.75
1.25 oz of halletau @ 1.20 a pound =1.51

about 2 lb propane = 4 $

24.22 cents for 10 gallons .

That comes out to .30 cents per pint.

Bulk baby

For an average beer around 1.055 OG:

Malt $17
Grains $3
Yeast $7
Hops $3
---------
$30

I don't do AG so the DME is killing me! ;)

My biggest savings are from buying hops in bulk (11-20$ lb depending on the variety) and making a yeast starter (so I only need a single Wyeast pack to hit proper pitching rates).
 
Giving a figure is practically irrelevant without exploring the type of beer brewed, and the volumes, methods & motivations of each individual brewer. If the only goal is to achieve the cheapest possible glass of beer, probably best to go to the supermarket and stock up on whatever swill the BMCs have on sale this weekend.....


What's wrong with finding the cheapest way to brew a specific style? While I may not want to buy the cheapest swill on the market to drink there is nothing wrong with trying to save a buck.

Spending as much money as possible doesn't make a better glass of beer it only makes you stupid and lazy...
 
I don't do AG so the DME is killing me! ;)

I'm sure I'll get some slack for saying this, but bulk LME is much cheaper than DME. Above the Rest in Tigard, OR charges $1.95 a pound for bulk LME, whereas DME is closer to $3-$4 a pound. I know that DME will go further, but LME is still cheaper...
 
Depending on the recipe, at least 30$ (CDN) for a 5 gallon batch. In order of cost: LME, Hops, yeast, steeping grain, ...
 
Did an Original bitter last night.

6lbs MO @ .90/lb
.5lb Crystal @ 1.40/lb
~2oz hops @ .66/oz
Washed yeast - second use = $3.50 if you can call it that.

10.92 with yeast 7 something without.
But then propane....
 
I've got to convince SWMBO that bulk will save us $$$. She thinks it'll just mean that I'll brew more often because I won't have the lack of supplies keeping me from making beer.

OK, so she's probably right.

I still buy by the batch and bought two this week. These are for five gallons-
Cream Ale - $18
IPA - $33
 
I'm sure I'll get some slack for saying this, but bulk LME is much cheaper than DME. Above the Rest in Tigard, OR charges $1.95 a pound for bulk LME, whereas DME is closer to $3-$4 a pound. I know that DME will go further, but LME is still cheaper...

At my LHBS, 1 lb of LME is $2.85 and the equivalent amount of DME (.8 lb) is $2.60 so, for me, it's cheaper to use DME.

I like the physical properties of DME better anyway. ;)
 
I'm still trying to figure out if Propane should be considered into the cost. I assume if you put in propane, you might as well add water, electricity, etc...

As far as SWMBO thinking it'll just mean that you'll brew more often, counter that it will also mean more $$$ to spend on her, etc. Plus less amount of time spent at the LHBS!! :)
 
Using business models, you should try to use some kind of markup. I've heard 1/3 on ingredients sounds right. The 2 others are divided between equipment and labor.

So, even if you look at about $90/batch. Ingredients x 3. You'll still doing better than if you were to buy. If you were to purchase similar quality beer (if you could find it), it's going to top $100 for two cases.

I run between 30 and 40. I don't buy many bulk hops, so some batches are like $10 alone for hops. LHBS is a rip-off when they mill your grains. You're looking at $2/# PLUS 20 cent per/# to mill.

Basically if I can re-use yeast I'm closer to 30, and if not I'm closer to 40.

Avg batch is prob 1.056-1.060 and 30-45 IBU.
 
As far as SWMBO thinking it'll just mean that you'll brew more often, counter that it will also mean more $$$ to spend on her, etc. Plus less amount of time spent at the LHBS!! :)

Yeah a nice dinner and a lil shopping afterwards has given me way too much of a green light!!! :ban:Just go to the local Harley Davidson/BMW/Mercedes dealership and bring home a brochure... Homebrewing becomes a simple hobby quick!!! SWMBO approves!!!:tank:
 
I spend about 10-20 a batch....probably on average about 12.

For about 90% of my beers I use safale 05, 04 or saflager, rarely do I use need to use any liguid yeasts unless I'm brewing a Belgian. If I do use liquid I usually harvest my yeast or pitch on top of it.

One of my LHB's sells outdated tubes for 3.00 bucks (most of them are no more than a month old-It's a high traffic store)...and they can be a year old and if you grow from a starter even just a few viable cells can be made into a big starter. (That's why we can harvest huge amounts of yeast from the dregs of some bottles of beer-it only takes a few cells.)

Now that the hop crisis has been averted (and even when it was going on) I would always snag the max amount allowed for recipe whether or not I needed them, and now I'll grab a couple packs of my most used whenever I'm in, even if I am not planning to brew anytime soon. So I have a fairly built up hop supply in my freezer.

So most of the time when I picking up ingredients I am just getting grain, because I have everything else.

I have found that a lot of new brewers especially, THINK they HAVE to use liquid yeast, but in reality most ales can be made with Notty, WIndsor, Us-05, Us-04 and many lagers with basic Saflager.....7-8 bucks a pop for liquid as opposed to $1.50-2.50 for dry, with more cell count, is imho just not economically viable....most commercial ales us a limited range of strains, and those liquid strains are really the same strains that the afore mentioned dry strains cover, for example Us-05 is the famed "Chico", so if you are paying 7-8 bucks for Wyeast 1056 American/Chico Ale Yeast, and STILL have to buy DME to make a starter to have enough viable cells, then you are ripping yourself off....Especially if you are not washing and reusing it.

So, one big way to save money, is to look at your recipes, see what yeast you are using, and if there is a comparable dry strain, the use it.
 
It varies, but usually it's $10-$18 per 5 gallon batch.

I buy grain in bulk, hops in bulk (and kept vacuum packed in the freezer) and wash my yeast. I use tap water, or a mix of tap/reverse osmosis water, so don't spend much more than $1.50 on water per batch if that.

thats about what I pay too

I only buy hops in bulk though, I just buy the grain when I'm ready to brew
 
How long do hops last after you open one of those sealed bags they come in? I have half an once of magnum hops left over from a beer I brewed 3 months ago. Plus a little bit of mt. hood.
 
How long do hops last after you open one of those sealed bags they come in? I have half an once of magnum hops left over from a beer I brewed 3 months ago. Plus a little bit of mt. hood.

how has it been stored? You should at least put it in a plastic freezer bag and suck the air out. Then put it in the freezer.
 
I buy hops in bulk and then use my foodsaver to seal them. Another great investment.
 
My expectation, based on a lot of AG posts I had read, was that going to AG would reduce cost. But in my experience that is not true. If you don't buy in bulk and don't re-use yeast, then it has been my experience that the cost for extract or AG will be very similar. I used to spend $30-$40 per extract, and my last AG brew was $33 from brewmasters warehouse.

My point is that I don't think there is anything intrinsically cheaper about AG, its the yeast re-use and bulk buys that apparently drives down cost.

But I must say, knowing that I spend that much more than so many people is really depressing. More so the fact that I don't really have the facilities to buy bulk grain. So cost minimization options is limited. I will have to look into yeast washing since that is usually 20% of my brew cost. Although in my last several l rarely brew with the same yeast, so I may not be able to realize the cost savings until I settle on some regular recipes.
 
My expectation, based on a lot of AG posts I had read, was that going to AG would reduce cost. But in my experience that is not true. If you don't buy in bulk and don't re-use yeast, then it has been my experience that the cost for extract or AG will be very similar. I used to spend $30-$40 per extract, and my last AG brew was $33 from brewmasters warehouse.

My point is that I don't think there is anything intrinsically cheaper about AG, its the yeast re-use and bulk buys that apparently drives down cost.

But I must say, knowing that I spend that much more than so many people is really depressing. More so the fact that I don't really have the facilities to buy bulk grain. So cost minimization options is limited. I will have to look into yeast washing since that is usually 20% of my brew cost. Although in my last several l rarely brew with the same yeast, so I may not be able to realize the cost savings until I settle on some regular recipes.

I don't see how that's possible. An average recipe for a batch using 6 pounds of DME would be 30+ bucks just for the malt. 8 for yeast, 6 for hops, and you have 44 dollars. Same recipe, 14 dollars for the extras and about 14 pounds of grain which shouldn't cost more than like 13 dollars (assuming 85 cents/pound for 2 row and a couple of pounds of specialty malt). I get 27 dollars, and I think that's at the high end. And a big difference.
 
My expectation, based on a lot of AG posts I had read, was that going to AG would reduce cost. But in my experience that is not true. If you don't buy in bulk and don't re-use yeast, then it has been my experience that the cost for extract or AG will be very similar. I used to spend $30-$40 per extract, and my last AG brew was $33 from brewmasters warehouse.

My point is that I don't think there is anything intrinsically cheaper about AG, its the yeast re-use and bulk buys that apparently drives down cost.

But I must say, knowing that I spend that much more than so many people is really depressing. More so the fact that I don't really have the facilities to buy bulk grain. So cost minimization options is limited. I will have to look into yeast washing since that is usually 20% of my brew cost. Although in my last several l rarely brew with the same yeast, so I may not be able to realize the cost savings until I settle on some regular recipes.

What's you price/pound of grain? That is the determining factor in AG- Extract pricing..I mean an ounce of hops or a vial of yeast is usually the same price regardless of whether or not you are doing AG or Extract. It's the price of the fermentables where the savings lie....

Today I just spent 14 bucks on 10 pounds of grain...

4 1/2 # Pils- $6.30
3 # White Wheat- $4.20
2.5# Flaked Wheat- $3.50

This wasn't even buying bulk, just out the door at my LHBS.

At the same time I bought a 3# sack of Extra-light dry malt extract for starters and stuff and that cost me $11.00, for three measly pounds.

If you are not saving much buying grain compared to extract, then you are not getting the best prices you could be. No offense to Ed. :D
 
What's you price/pound of grain? That is the determining factor in AG- Extract pricing..I mean an ounce of hops or a vial of yeast is usually the same price regardless of whether or not you are doing AG or Extract. It's the price of the fermentables where the savings lie....
I can't say I completely agree with that.
For me, a typical 5g brew has 11# grain, 4 oz hops, and a vial of yeast.
I bought my base grain in bulk at $0.96 per lb for Maris Otter vs $1.99 per lb if I bought it by the lb.
My bulk hops cost me $1.31 per oz vs $2.89 if I bought them by the oz on the LHBS
My yeast cost me $8.00 per vial, but with washing, I get 15 - 20 brews out of 1 vial.

Cost of typical brew without bulk buying or yeast washing = $42.25 (including $0.80 for DME in the starter)
Same brew with bulk hops saves me $6.32
Same brew, but using yeast 15 times saves me $7.47
Same brew with bulk malt saves me $11.33
Cost of brew with bulk purchase and yeast washing = $17.13

Add $6.00 for propane, brewing salts, oxi-clean sanitizer etc.

Add $475.00 for labor... :drunk:

Homebrewing is not cheap.

-a.
 
I can't say I completely agree with that.
For me, a typical 5g brew has 11# grain, 4 oz hops, and a vial of yeast.
I bought my base grain in bulk at $0.96 per lb for Maris Otter vs $1.99 per lb if I bought it by the lb.
My bulk hops cost me $1.31 per oz vs $2.89 if I bought them by the oz on the LHBS
My yeast cost me $8.00 per vial, but with washing, I get 15 - 20 brews out of 1 vial.

Cost of typical brew without bulk buying or yeast washing = $42.25 (including $0.80 for DME in the starter)
Same brew with bulk hops saves me $6.32
Same brew, but using yeast 15 times saves me $7.47
Same brew with bulk malt saves me $11.33
Cost of brew with bulk purchase and yeast washing = $17.13

Add $6.00 for propane, brewing salts, oxi-clean sanitizer etc.

Add $475.00 for labor... :drunk:

Homebrewing is not cheap.

-a.

I don't see any pricing for extracts in your post. I cannot imagine that you actually pay the same or less for extracts than you do for grain, regardless of whether you buy it bulk or not.
 
I can't say I completely agree with that.
For me, a typical 5g brew has 11# grain, 4 oz hops, and a vial of yeast.
I bought my base grain in bulk at $0.96 per lb for Maris Otter vs $1.99 per lb if I bought it by the lb.
My bulk hops cost me $1.31 per oz vs $2.89 if I bought them by the oz on the LHBS
My yeast cost me $8.00 per vial, but with washing, I get 15 - 20 brews out of 1 vial.

Cost of typical brew without bulk buying or yeast washing = $42.25 (including $0.80 for DME in the starter)
Same brew with bulk hops saves me $6.32
Same brew, but using yeast 15 times saves me $7.47
Same brew with bulk malt saves me $11.33
Cost of brew with bulk purchase and yeast washing = $17.13

Add $6.00 for propane, brewing salts, oxi-clean sanitizer etc.

Add $475.00 for labor... :drunk:

Homebrewing is not cheap.

-a.

:confused:

What does what you just wrote prove or disprove what I said??? And buying bulk either? What does that have to do with specifically what I wrote????????

I'm just showing that buying extract retailt at $11/3 pounds is a LOT more expensive than 10 pounds of grain at 14.00.

The same recipe that cost me 14 dollars in fermentables alone would cost over $33, for the same recipe. What's NOT to disagree with? The person who I was responding to was saying that HIS prices were not much different for AG or Extract.....Which I have never come across in the 3 LHBS's that I shop at....:confused:
 
I don't see any pricing for extracts in your post. I cannot imagine that you actually pay the same or less for extracts than you do for grain, regardless of whether you buy it bulk or not.

Glad to know I'm not the only one confused by that.....

:mug:

Some things I don't factor into the equation;
1) My time, this is one of my hobbies it's fun for me.

2) My gear...it's been paid for in cases of beer a long time ago. Plus in the pleasure it has given myself and my friends, and family. For example

My mom is 85, before I started brewing my nephew who is only 5 years younger than me started brewing and more significantly wine making....right around the time my dad died. He is quite talented at winemaking and quickly rose to the position of vitner of one of the biggest homebrew/winemaking clubs in the area...that club has twice a year a tastings...in the spring it is wine, and in the fall, beer...and it has been my family's sincere pleasure to take her to the tastings, where she proceeds to get nice and "toasty" (and to slap my arm when talking to me if I am sitting next to her.)

Besides that, since he brings wins and I bring beers to family holidays it has made them more palatable...See my brother who was 16 years older than me died 13 years ago on Christmas eve, and my dad, her husband, died 3 years ago this New Years, holidays have been nevertheless difficult. But since every family gathering ends up being an orgy of great food, and beer and wine tastings from my Nephew and I, difficult times have been eased, and actually fun for her....and the rest of us as well. We actually laugh on Christmas...and I for one didn't laugh on Christmas for nearly a decade.

That alone more than pays for the approximate $300-500 that I put into gear.

Like the American Express commercial, some things are priceless.

3) Things like starsan and oxyclean, especially santizer, because I use so little of it by only mixing a gallon or two at a time, reusing it the next day or using it in a spray bottle of RO water, that it comes out to cents per usage. A 20 dollar bottle of starsan will last me over a year.

But on a purely practical level, this is how I calculate the savings in my brewing, even with brewing extract;

I like beer, I like good beer, good beer tends to be expensive, or at least more expensive than a sixer of Bud Light. The commercial beers I tend to like (and brew similar to, including some clones) and that I still buy on occasion cost me between $10 and 17$ a six pack.

I'll use a typical 6 of Bell's Amber Ale for example.

1 6 pack of Bell's is around 12 dollars with tax and bottle deposit.

two cases (48 beers) of Bells would cost me $106.00

To brew 2 cases of my old Extract w/ grains clone recipe, including dry yeast (though I would usually use bottle harvested Bell's yeast) and hops would cost me about $50.00

To brew it as All Grain would cost me about 25-30 dollars.

Even brewing with extract I would be saving $56 dollars to get the same amount of beer that tastes exactly the same.

I could roll that $56 dollar savings into another two cases of beer...

Like I said, to me my gear has been paid for in spades, most of the hops and yeast I have already paid for long before I actually brew (and I know a place I can get pre-hop shortage pricing on ounce of hops), and I enjoy every monkey loving minute of this brewing thing, so I still come out ahead....:ban:

But the intrinsic enjoyment that I get as part of the brewing culture, including this place, way outweighs any money I sink into it. And I also, as I mentioned in the first post try to cut corners on occasion...
 
I've determined that homebrewing as a hobby is just that - a hobby (which can be expensive). If folks are getting into it for cost savings, it won't work (unless you're brewing 2/3 times per month, washing yeast, pitching on cakes of low gravity batches, buying 50 lb bags of gain, growing your own hops, etc....)
 
Wow, I must say after reading this that I'm glad to see that it must get cheaper. My batches run ~$45 (mini-mash). I have a friend trying to convert me to all grain, good to see that the equipment pays for it in the end. The only thing preventing me from brewing more frequently is simply the ingredient cost.
 
Wow, I really appreciate my LHBS. They sell 2 row for $1 a pound, but you can get a 50# bag for $38 (price jump). It took me a while to pay off the barley crusher. Specialty grains are $1.45 a pound. They are raping me on the hops though. $3+ per oz. I see you can get most for $1 oz at hops direct.

I usually use notty or us-04, and reuse on the next batch, so most batches are $13-$15 per 5 gallon batch.

Base grains keep really well, I just keep them in buckets w/lids I bought at walmart.
 
So - I'm growing hops and moving into more and more partial grain which i have noticed does impact my cost. I have also been pitching on yeast cakes and im moving to kegging to get out of the bottling mayhem.

One thing I'd like to understand better is yeast washing. I have noticed a taste impact as I pitched over a yeast cake... how often do you yeast wash (how many batches) how much do you leave vs remove at each batch. And how do you do it? Do you boil water first to sterilize? Do you separate using a strainer? How do you do it with yeast that create a hard cake (like Safale 04/05 I forget which?)

lastly anecdotally; i had left the trub and yeast in my fermenter after going on vacation. one of those mad dash, move to secondary and pack the bags situation. anyway, 3 weeks later, i opened the fermenter and i got a huge head buzz when i stuck my head in there. It seemed alchoholic and almost pass out material. Co2 overload (which would be weird, i left the bubbler on), airborne alcohol? coincidental spinal tap?
anyone have this experience?
 
I don't see any pricing for extracts in your post. I cannot imagine that you actually pay the same or less for extracts than you do for grain, regardless of whether you buy it bulk or not.

:confused:

What does what you just wrote prove or disprove what I said??? And buying bulk either? What does that have to do with specifically what I wrote????????

I'm just showing that buying extract retailt at $11/3 pounds is a LOT more expensive than 10 pounds of grain at 14.00.

The same recipe that cost me 14 dollars in fermentables alone would cost over $33, for the same recipe. What's NOT to disagree with? The person who I was responding to was saying that HIS prices were not much different for AG or Extract.....Which I have never come across in the 3 LHBS's that I shop at....:confused:

I think I should shut up.:eek:

It made perfect sense to me when I wrote it, but I missed Revvy's reference to the cost of AG vs extract.

If you ignore that crucial reference, my post does make some sense (you can save a bunch of money by buying in bulk and reusing the yeast, and the cost of fermentables is not the major item), but my post was completely out of context.

I appologize.

-a.
 
Brewing everything from my light house ale to higher gravity fall and winter ales, my AVERAGE is $17 per 5 gallon brew. Light ales, IPA, APA, Oktoberfest, Holiday Ale, Hefeweizens etc... $17 per 5 gallons average.

I spend about $1.13 for electric per brew with a 100 minute boil at our current electrical cost per KwH.

Again, this is AG, so it is obviously cheaper than extract or PM.
 
You know this thread has given me an idea. Why can't hops be re-used? I understand that do to utilization that they'll have diminished returns on hops that where in for the full 60-90 minutes, but what about the hops(whole) that were added at flame out? Surely they could be re-used?

So I think the next three batches I'll take the whole hops that I strain out, dry them in my dehydrator, vacuum seal them and put them in my freezer. Once I collect enough I'll brew a beer with it and start a thread.
 
You know this thread has given me an idea. Why can't hops be re-used? I understand that do to utilization that they'll have diminished returns on hops that where in for the full 60-90 minutes, but what about the hops(whole) that were added at flame out? Surely they could be re-used?

So I think the next three batches I'll take the whole hops that I strain out, dry them in my dehydrator, vacuum seal them and put them in my freezer. Once I collect enough I'll brew a beer with it and start a thread.

Anything that hits the boil, or hot wort, probably not a good idea to re-use, because you dont know what you are getting due to the partial utilization. What you MAY save as opposed to the chance of messing up a brew, probably not a good pro-con ratio.

BUT many people DO re-use thier dry hops. Those oils are not utilized and can be used for bittering in later beers, many people do that.
 
When I make a blond, 15 - 20 $Canadian
Amber ale 25 - 30 $Cdn
Stout 60 - 70$ Cdn

But I make 5 Imperial Gallons at a time = 6 US Gallons

What makes the stout 2x as expensive as the amber? And 3x more expensive than the blonde?

Really the only thing that drives up the price of my beer, is spices and flavorings. My SNPA clone was $17 with electricity included in the cost to brew. Granted, there is plenty of bulk buying going on too.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top