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How High for Bag Hoist?

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tennesseean_87

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I'm building an eBIAB setup in the laundry room. I'll be making a stand from scratch since I can' drill any holes that substantial in my apartment. If I can keep it low enough I will be able to fit it under a high shelf in the room, so I'm wondering how high I need to crank it.

I've got a 15.5 gallon bayou classic w/ basket, which is about 18" tall. How much room above the top of the kettle do I need to put an eye bolt?
 
High enough so that a bag full of wet grain suspended from the hoist will clear the top of the kettle.

My e-BIAB rig is the garage. The hoist is mounted on a ceiling joist.
 
High enough so that a bag full of wet grain suspended from the hoist will clear the top of the kettle.

My e-BIAB rig is the garage. The hoist is mounted on a ceiling joist.

I'd say that you only need to suspend the bag high enough to clear the top of the wort when the drain is over. After is has drained you will have to lift it by hand to dispose of it anyway so having it higher won't be much help.
 
Thanks, guys. Clearing the wort level seems to make more sense. So roughly how high will that be for a kettle of this height? I'm planning to do the Wilserbrewer loop wrapped around the gathered bag top.

I'm sure it will depend on the shape I make my bag, but is there any rule of thumb?
 
You'll need to calculate that based on your batch volumes. Factor in boil-off and cooling contraction, plus the exact shape of your bag....

If it were me I'd just stick some weight in the bag and position it over the kettle in the spot you're trying for. Just get it as high as possible.
 
:confused:
Thanks, guys. Clearing the wort level seems to make more sense. So roughly how high will that be for a kettle of this height? I'm planning to do the Wilserbrewer loop wrapped around the gathered bag top.

I'm sure it will depend on the shape I make my bag, but is there any rule of thumb?

Confused :confused:

If you are using a basket, wouldn't you just attach the hoist line to the basket. With a basket, I would guess you want to keep the bottom of the basket below the top of the kettle to keep it from dripping all about. With just a bag, you can hoist above the kettle rim as the tapered bottom of the bag directs the draining wort to the center.

If using a basket, I would think basket height w/ handle plus a couple inches would be sufficient, as you will likely want to keep the basket an inch or so below the kettle rim while draining.

If not using a basket, I would guess you would need your hoist point at least as tall as the kettle, plus perhaps another 6-12" IDK.
 
Confused :confused:

If you are using a basket, wouldn't you just attach the hoist line to the basket. With a basket, I would guess you want to keep the bottom of the basket below the top of the kettle to keep it from dripping all about. With just a bag, you can hoist above the kettle rim as the tapered bottom of the bag directs the draining wort to the center.

If using a basket, I would think basket height w/ handle plus a couple inches would be sufficient, as you will likely want to keep the basket an inch or so below the kettle rim while draining.

If not using a basket, I would guess you would need your hoist point at least as tall as the kettle, plus perhaps another 6-12" IDK.

I'm not sure I want to hoist the basket since I won't be able to squeeze the bag that way. I'll be using it mostly to keep the grain and bag off the element. I'm still deciding whether or not to remove it for the boil. Maybe it'll do a good job of keeping hop bags off the element, too. Does that clear things up?
 
I'm not sure I want to hoist the basket since I won't be able to squeeze the bag that way. I'll be using it mostly to keep the grain and bag off the element. I'm still deciding whether or not to remove it for the boil. Maybe it'll do a good job of keeping hop bags off the element, too. Does that clear things up?

ok, I guess it does if that's what you want to do..., I guess I wouldn't approach it like that.
I wouldn't get crazy with all this squeezing action, I would lift the basket and let it drain while you come to boil...maybe pour a quart of water through the grain as a volume adjustment / sparge....let it drain and move on! You could always grab the bag inside the basket and squeeze it if you need a fix and really want to glove up and manhandle the bag for a half pint of beer. jmo

I don't see any need to boil with a basket or worry about hops contacting your element...jmo
 
ok, I guess it does if that's what you want to do..., I guess I wouldn't approach it like that.
I wouldn't get crazy with all this squeezing action, I would lift the basket and let it drain while you come to boil...maybe pour a quart of water through the grain as a volume adjustment / sparge....let it drain and move on! You could always grab the bag inside the basket and squeeze it if you need a fix and really want to glove up and manhandle the bag for a half pint of beer. jmo

I don't see any need to boil with a basket or worry about hops contacting your element...jmo

Yeah, I guess I'll see how things go as far as squeezing is concerned. If my eff is terrible I may be more inclined to do so, but maybe KISS is better here. The only reason to leave the basket in would be not wanting to bother with taking it out and the hop BAGs, not the hops themselves. Thanks for the input!
 
I can tell you from experience (as can others) that squeezing is really not necessary. I brewed with a Wilser bag a few days ago and hung it up on a pulley with the loop method. I had never thought of that hanging technique before, duh... how easy it was! It definitely reduces the clearance needed for the bag.

I do think that hanging the bag is marginally better for wort recovery than a basket. The bag hangs by its own weight this way, which stretches the fabric and effectively squeezes the grains within. In a basket, pressure on the grains seems less constant. Could be impression rather than reality, but...

Just hang the bag til your boil begins to threaten; by that point it will be dripping only slightly. Put it in a colander or strainer over a small pot and leave it to drain more while you start boiling. Pour in the small remaining volume when you feel like it. The grain retains about 0.065 gal/lb this way.

My mash efficiency was 77% on that brew. It's always between 75-85 and that includes episodes of major squeezing and gravity drains alike.
 
Thanks again.

I'm getting about 80% eff right now with a CPVC manifold and fly sparge in a bottling bucket tun, but I'm going BIAB to decrease footprint and length of brewday. I crush in a corona and I'm sure I'll be adjusting that to get things dialed in.
 
Thanks again.

I'm getting about 80% eff right now with a CPVC manifold and fly sparge in a bottling bucket tun, but I'm going BIAB to decrease footprint and length of brewday. I crush in a corona and I'm sure I'll be adjusting that to get things dialed in.

Turn it down until the plates rub so that it takes a little effort to turn the crank when empty. BIAB loves it that way.:ban:
 
Unless you are recirculating with a pump during mash then a normal crush is fine.

Yes, I've heard that recirculating with the fine crush will plug up the bag. The question is what do you gain from recirculating except having another piece of equipment to clean and store and a longer brew day as you wait for the grains to gelatinize and convert.
 
One thing to note: make sure you set things up so that the bag completely clears the kettle. I've found that when lifting the bag out the few seconds before it clears tend to cause some spillage down the outside of the kettle.
 
Yes, I've heard that recirculating with the fine crush will plug up the bag. The question is what do you gain from recirculating except having another piece of equipment to clean and store and a longer brew day as you wait for the grains to gelatinize and convert.
Being new, and still deciding on the exact design of the brewery, and also owning a very nice March pump that I purchased to use in said brewery, I as well would also like to hear more about this.
 
Being new, and still deciding on the exact design of the brewery, and also owning a very nice March pump that I purchased to use in said brewery, I as well would also like to hear more about this.

193 posts and growing linked below regarding the pleasure of recirculating lol

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=543873

More so a royal pain when I brew 10gal. Can't turn my back on the kettle or else I end up with a giant sticky mess all over the kettle and floor.
 
Yes, I've heard that recirculating with the fine crush will plug up the bag. The question is what do you gain from recirculating except having another piece of equipment to clean and store and a longer brew day as you wait for the grains to gelatinize and convert.

The ability to step my mash temp very easily is the main benefit I experience. I just dial in whatever temp I want and the temp goes there and stays. Another benefit is hop stands are a breeze. I set the temp to 180F and hold it there for 20 minutes without even thinking about it. And lastly, I recirculate when I chill. With hot ground water most of the year in Houston, I don't hit temps in a single pass and don't really want to bother with a pre chiller.

Also, with my simple set up of two hoses and a little 24v DC pump, I don't find it any more time consuming than dragging out my insulating materials of my old set up. Brew days are just as fast now that I've shortened my boil to 30 minutes.

I like having a simple recirculating system, but it's not for everyone.
 
The height will depend on the height of the stand. I built my stand so high enough that I can easily drain into a carboy and put a ring in the joist above for a pulley. Very simple.
 
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