How do you tell if you have inactive yeast?

[WTexan]

I brewed a batch yesterday and was not feeling good at all about how it boiled but, I went on and did everything as normal. Today I went and checked on it and it looks as if the yeast is doing nothing. Any ideas?

 

[OHIOSTEVE]

wait...sometimes it can take as long as 3 days to get chugging....make sure your temps are right also.

 

[Dotmo]

give it time

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/fermentation-can-take-24-72-hrs-show-visible-signs-43635/


What about the boil did you not feel so good about?
Did you aerate the wort once it was in the fermenter?
Was the wort cooled down to pitching temps before you tossed in the yeast?
What strain/type of yeast did you use?

 

[WTexan]

Well the boil to me never really boiled, if that makes any since. I started out with a 2.5 gal boil and add my grains (this was an extract). Once the temp got to 200 I removed my grains because by that pinot it had been on the stove for an hour. I added my first batch of hops and reduced heat trying to get temp down to 170-175. I added another .5 gal of water to get there. I help that temp for the remainder of the boil but it still looked like a vigorous simmer never broke the top. I went in and added hops at 30 and 10 min.
I put the wort in an ice bath and cooled down to 85. I then poured my wort in my carboy that I had 2 gallons of water in after that I shook vigorously for 3 min.
During that time I rehydrated my yeast using 1 cup of water and bringing it up to 100 and then took of the stove and let cool to room temp. The yeast I used was Dry Ale Safale US 05

 

[matthewrozon]

Well the boil to me never really boiled, if that makes any since. I started out with a 2.5 gal boil and add my grains (this was an extract). Once the temp got to 200 I removed my grains because by that pinot it had been on the stove for an hour. I added my first batch of hops and reduced heat trying to get temp down to 170-175. I added another .5 gal of water to get there. I help that temp for the remainder of the boil but it still looked like a vigorous simmer never broke the top. I went in and added hops at 30 and 10 min.
I put the wort in an ice bath and cooled down to 85. I then poured my wort in my carboy that I had 2 gallons of water in after that I shook vigorously for 3 min.
During that time I rehydrated my yeast using 1 cup of water and bringing it up to 100 and then took of the stove and let cool to room temp. The yeast I used was Dry Ale Safale US 05

Beyond a few things that I'm sure the more experienced people will address in regards to your process, I can't help but think your Carboy is wayyyyyy too full and will definitely overflow. This is judging by your first picture

 

[WTexan]

Mattewrozon you think that I will have over flow? That just 5 gal in a 6.5. What could I have done differently.

 

[matthewrozon]

I take it back, I was looking at the picture on my phone and it looked like the liquid was all the way up the neck. Just got on my laptop and could clearly see its not. You should be good. My bad

 

[helibrewer]

Well the boil to me never really boiled, if that makes any since. I started out with a 2.5 gal boil and add my grains (this was an extract). Once the temp got to 200 I removed my grains because by that pinot it had been on the stove for an hour. I added my first batch of hops and reduced heat trying to get temp down to 170-175. I added another .5 gal of water to get there. I help that temp for the remainder of the boil but it still looked like a vigorous simmer never broke the top. I went in and added hops at 30 and 10 min.
I put the wort in an ice bath and cooled down to 85. I then poured my wort in my carboy that I had 2 gallons of water in after that I shook vigorously for 3 min.
During that time I rehydrated my yeast using 1 cup of water and bringing it up to 100 and then took of the stove and let cool to room temp. The yeast I used was Dry Ale Safale US 05

Why were you trying to reduce the temp to 170-175 after adding the hops?
Sounds like you need to move to a propane burner, if your stove can't boil 2.5 gallons you are going to have a tough time.

 

[WTexan]

Matthewrozon ok thanks had me worried for a second

 

[WTexan]

Helibrewer I thought I had to reduce the heat to 170-175 to keep it from burning. I know that is contradictory statement since I never got to a boil. Moving to a propane burner is defiantly in my notes to do on my next batch.

 

[helibrewer]

Helibrewer I thought I had to reduce the heat to 170-175 to keep it from burning. I know that is contradictory statement since I never got to a boil. Moving to a propane burner is defiantly in my notes to do on my next batch.

You only need to be concerned when adding the extract, either turn the burner off or remove from the burner so the extract doesn't scorch on the bottom of the pot. After adding and stirring thoroughly, crank the heat back up. There is no need to reduce the temp for hop additions.

 

[beergynt]

Once fermentation does kick in and this thing ferments out, its going to be very sweet. You need to boil in order for the hops to provide bitterness. It'll probably be unbalanced, but it will be beer!

 

[WTexan]

Beergynt do you think dry hopping will do any good?

 

[helibrewer]

Beergynt do you think dry hopping will do any good?

Not much for bittering (a little), dry hopping is a flavor/aroma technique primarily.

There is always some bittering with any hop addition at any temp, just toss some in your mouth and see

 

[WTexan]

Helibrewer what I was also afraid of was that since it did hit 200 I would also kill some of the sugars.

 

[Dotmo]

The yeast I used was Dry Ale Safale US 05

I'm a newer brewer (and apparently a rhymer) myself, and with all my batches I've used US-05. Each batch, while sometimes taking longer to get started, always had vigorous fermentation. I have never re-hydrated the US-05, just pitched it in and shook like hell.

 

[helibrewer]

Rehydation allows the yeast to get their cell walls in order and ready for metabolic activity. I personally would always rehydrate dry yeast, and when I do, I use a little GoFerm nutrient.

EDIT: However, do NOT rehydrate with distilled or RO water, the osmotic difference will destroy the yeast.

 

[bottlebomber]

Helibrewer what I was also afraid of was that since it did hit 200 I would also kill some of the sugars.

The only way you can "kill" sugars is through the Maillard reaction or by turning them into alcohol. Being that it's extract I doubt if the fact the you didn't fully boil effected that part of your beer at all. Just hop utilization, as was mentioned.

 

[helibrewer]

Helibrewer what I was also afraid of was that since it did hit 200 I would also kill some of the sugars.

Well boiling is 212F and the wort is meant to be boiled from 60-90 minutes...you cannot harm the sugars through the normal boiling process.

 

[WTexan]

Well boiling is 212F and the wort is meant to be boiled from 60-90 minutes...you cannot harm the sugars through the normal boiling process.

Ok that makes me feel a little better. I just hope I did not screw it up too bad.