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How do you connect a hose that doesn't fit? (closed transfers)

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worlddivides

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So I intend to do a closed transfer from my fermenter to my keg, but I just now realized something. The hose size that fits perfectly on my beer quick disconnect is the beer line, but it is WAY too small to connect to the spigot on my fermenter. I actually have the perfect sized hose to fit right inside the spigot on my fermenter, but it is WAY too big to fit on my beer disconnect. I tried using a clamp to clamp it on, but the kinds of clamps used in the beer world have a very small limit, so that won't work. I considered buying a bunch of rubber bands and very tightly wrapping them around the beer disconnect, but I have a feeling it will leak if I don't do it perfectly.

I'm certain that fermenter spigots are usually not super thin like beer lines, so I have to imagine this is an insanely common issue. How do people deal with it? I searched on Google, but none of the results had anything to do with what I'm trying to find out.
 
In a pinch you could get male/female NPT barb fittings. TC might work too.

Do you know the IDs of the tubes?

I bought a 3/8" to 1/4" two-sided barb fitting at brewhardware. They also have NPT and TC barbs.
https://www.brewhardware.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=barb&Submit=

edit: Brewhardware also has a variety of worm clamps and similar.
 
If you are using push-to-fit on your beer side, There are adapters for varying sized hose as well. I have found that they do not do well with vinyl tubing.

Also, restricting the beer at the quick connect is going to increase your transfer time considerably. so if the above post with the swivel flare and barbs works for you, that is probably your best option.
 
Not knowing what material your line with the disconnect is made from, this may or may not work but you give it a try and at worse maybe lose an inch of hose if it splits; Swag to hose a bit larger: You could get a proper swaging tool, or if you have anything with a round taper it'd work.. I used a couple of steel punches. Heat the end of your hose up in a pan of hot (but not boiling water) on the stove, shove it onto whatever tapered tool you have and let it cool there.
Here's a pic of it being done with a bit of EVABarrier;
swagNsit.jpg

Vinyl lines might split, but it may also work.
 
If you are using push-to-fit on your beer side, There are adapters for varying sized hose as well. I have found that they do not do well with vinyl tubing.

Also, restricting the beer at the quick connect is going to increase your transfer time considerably. so if the above post with the swivel flare and barbs works for you, that is probably your best option.
Yeah, I'm using barb (push-to-fit) on the beer side and flare (threaded) on the gas side.

I have 3 different sizes. One is a rather large silicone hose I bought for transfers before I decided to do kegging (I originally planned to do bottling like I've done since 2014 - 12mm interior, 16mm exterior). Two are the beer line size (5mm interior, 10mm exterior). And then there's the size that perfectly fits the fermenter spigot. I think it's 10mm interior, 12mm exterior, so I guess I'd need a 10mm interior to 5mm interior adapter. There used to be a huge hardware store near where I used to live, but I don't think there are any hardware stores within the near vicinity of where I live now. I might be able to find something online, though.



EDIT: Looking online, I was able to find quite a few, but most of the ones online ship in like 1-3 weeks (some not to arrive until mid September), which is pretty ridiculous, but it does make me think that one of these 5mm to 10mm connector/couplers is the way to go. I might actually have to go all the way to where I used to live since the hardware store about a 5 minute walk where I used to live seems to be the closest large hardware store in a pretty huge area.
 
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Brew Hardware also sells swivel flare adapters with 3/8" and 1/2" barbs. Shipping to Tokyo might be prohibitive though, so maybe you can find something similar a bit closer.
This is what I use for most of my transfers. I have seen them on Amazon as well (though small items on Amazon are often a pit pricey due to "free" shipping).

In some cases you can nest different hose sizes to make a good fit. For example, I have some fermenters with a 1/2" barb. I put a small section of 1/2" ID tubing over the barb, and then slide my 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) transfer tubing into that. I did something similar to use 1/2" quick disconnects with a 5/8" hose using a section of 1/2" tubing.
 
This is what I use for most of my transfers. I have seen them on Amazon as well (though small items on Amazon are often a pit pricey due to "free" shipping).

In some cases you can nest different hose sizes to make a good fit. For example, I have some fermenters with a 1/2" barb. I put a small section of 1/2" ID tubing over the barb, and then slide my 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) transfer tubing into that. I did something similar to use 1/2" quick disconnects with a 5/8" hose using a section of 1/2" tubing.
I've been looking on Amazon and most of the first so many they show me have those insane delivery times of 1-5 weeks from now, but once I get past them, there are ones that arrive tomorrow (albeit pricy because of the free shipping).

Although none of them are perfect fits, they can be pretty close. The best one I've found so far is 9.4mm on one end (which should fit the 10mm hose) and 8mm on the other (which I think I should be able to fit a heated-up 5mm line onto).
 
I've been looking on Amazon and most of the first so many they show me have those insane delivery times of 1-5 weeks from now, but once I get past them, there are ones that arrive tomorrow (albeit pricy because of the free shipping).

Although none of them are perfect fits, they can be pretty close. The best one I've found so far is 9.4mm on one end (which should fit the 10mm hose) and 8mm on the other (which I think I should be able to fit a heated-up 5mm line onto).
Having looked over most of your threads, you mentioned difficulty in getting @KegLand products in Tokyo.. I'm in Canada where distribution is pretty weak but the prices on the official Kegland.com.au site are insane... Did you know that Kegland also runs an Aliexpress Store? https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101393480?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.7c62c0d4U3QHbV
The prices vary daily as exchange rates change, but if you're (wisely and highly recommended) using push-fittings you might as well stick with "The Best" which is genuine EVABarrier and the accompanying Duotight fittings.
If you haven't yet, check it out.
:mug:
 
Having looked over most of your threads, you mentioned difficulty in getting @KegLand products in Tokyo.. I'm in Canada where distribution is pretty weak but the prices on the official Kegland.com.au site are insane... Did you know that Kegland also runs an Aliexpress Store? https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101393480?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.7c62c0d4U3QHbV
The prices vary daily as exchange rates change, but if you're (wisely and highly recommended) using push-fittings you might as well stick with "The Best" which is genuine EVABarrier and the accompanying Duotight fittings.
If you haven't yet, check it out.
:mug:
The prices are actually pretty damn cheap.

BUT THE SHIPPING IS MINDBLOWINGLY EXPENSIVE!

$8 for 500ml of Stellar San, which is an amazingly good price... BUT $85 shipping on it! THAT. IS. CRAZY.

$89 for a 5 gallon corny keg, which is way cheaper than what I could get here, but $200 shipping on it, which would make it a lot more expensive than buying one here.
 
I use a simple hose clamp, the kind you use a screwdriver to tighten up. I had a bunch of them from when I was restoring cars and using them for different lines in the cars. Simple solution for me, and readily available at most auto parts stores or amazon. The clamp does not touch the beer, so I am ok with it not being anything fancy.
 
The prices are actually pretty damn cheap.

BUT THE SHIPPING IS MINDBLOWINGLY EXPENSIVE!

$8 for 500ml of Stellar San, which is an amazingly good price... BUT $85 shipping on it! THAT. IS. CRAZY.

$89 for a 5 gallon corny keg, which is way cheaper than what I could get here, but $200 shipping on it, which would make it a lot more expensive than buying one here.
Yeah, that happens to me too, but have you used the shipping drop-down and checked the prices on alternate (albeit slower) shipping options? Also: The prices of goods and shipping can vary wildly from one day to the next, for example: I bookmarked a 3-tap tower priced at $1xx and about $85 shipping, checked back a few days later and it was $35 and the cheap shipping option was $2.85. Admittedly, I use Aliexpress for items I don't expect to arrive quickly but the patience has paid me off as often as not.
Something else it took me a bit to process; From your descriptions, it sounds like your bucket spigot has a standard 3/8" barb and your line is the 5mm ID.. I've easily swaged 6.35mm ID over a 3/8" barb and there's a couple users on here I've seen who have done the same with the 5mm ID line... Give it shot, at worse you lose an inch of hose, but if it works you'll save the hassle of extra parts. Just one thing: since the plastic is pretty firm; use a hose-clamp on the spigot if you can successfully stretch your line.
 
I use a simple hose clamp, the kind you use a screwdriver to tighten up. I had a bunch of them from when I was restoring cars and using them for different lines in the cars. Simple solution for me, and readily available at most auto parts stores or amazon. The clamp does not touch the beer, so I am ok with it not being anything fancy.
I bought a coupler and some clamps in a set. This SHOULD work. If it alone doesn't, I think it should probably work in combination with a few cheap things. I initially tried one of those beer line hose clamps that homebrew places sell, but it was basically just designed to tighten on a specific size hose and it wouldn't tighten enough in this case. I imagine the clamps in the set should work if the coupler alone isn't enough.
 
Yeah, that happens to me too, but have you used the shipping drop-down and checked the prices on alternate (albeit slower) shipping options? Also: The prices of goods and shipping can vary wildly from one day to the next, for example: I bookmarked a 3-tap tower priced at $1xx and about $85 shipping, checked back a few days later and it was $35 and the cheap shipping option was $2.85. Admittedly, I use Aliexpress for items I don't expect to arrive quickly but the patience has paid me off as often as not.
Something else it took me a bit to process; From your descriptions, it sounds like your bucket spigot has a standard 3/8" barb and your line is the 5mm ID.. I've easily swaged 6.35mm ID over a 3/8" barb and there's a couple users on here I've seen who have done the same with the 5mm ID line... Give it shot, at worse you lose an inch of hose, but if it works you'll save the hassle of extra parts. Just one thing: since the plastic is pretty firm; use a hose-clamp on the spigot if you can successfully stretch your line.
If the cheapest shipping option can be that massive of a difference, that might be worth trying. Originally I saw a really affordable and nice-looking kegerator on AliExpress, but the shipping was over $1000, so I thought "screw that." For something I don't need immediately, I'd be more than willing to wait a month or so for it to arrive in exchange for more reasonable shipping.

I don't have a swaging tool, but I'd imagine a swaging tool would be cheaper than a lot of the alternative tools. I'll try to keep it in mind for future reference and hope the coupler works this time. Stretching a 5mm internal diameter to fit a 10mm diameter opening would be quite a bit of a stretch.
 
I bought a coupler and some clamps in a set. This SHOULD work. If it alone doesn't, I think it should probably work in combination with a few cheap things. I initially tried one of those beer line hose clamps that homebrew places sell, but it was basically just designed to tighten on a specific size hose and it wouldn't tighten enough in this case. I imagine the clamps in the set should work if the coupler alone isn't enough.
If the clamps you have allow you to tighten them just be careful not to overtighten and crack any plastic pieces. It does not take too much pressure to get a decent seal.
 
If the clamps you have allow you to tighten them just be careful not to overtighten and crack any plastic pieces. It does not take too much pressure to get a decent seal.
I have a multi-tool kit I use with my guitars which works nicely for tightening those clamps just the right amount.
 
If the cheapest shipping option can be that massive of a difference, that might be worth trying. Originally I saw a really affordable and nice-looking kegerator on AliExpress, but the shipping was over $1000, so I thought "screw that." For something I don't need immediately, I'd be more than willing to wait a month or so for it to arrive in exchange for more reasonable shipping.

I don't have a swaging tool, but I'd imagine a swaging tool would be cheaper than a lot of the alternative tools. I'll try to keep it in mind for future reference and hope the coupler works this time. Stretching a 5mm internal diameter to fit a 10mm diameter opening would be quite a bit of a stretch.
You can get up to double the diameter with heat and any smooth tapered object... You're in Tokyo; Use a chop-stick (preferably a laquered one... the chopsticks I use to put my hair in a bun are larger than 3/8") Here's 3mm ID EVABarrier swaged over a 1/4" (6.35mm) barb:
BarbFinis.jpg

I've seen pics of other members swaging 4mm ID line over barbs..
As to Aliexpress: Fellow member @fluketamer recently bought a kegerator from ali for $267, at this moment it lists for $558.43...it really does constntly change up and down. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...-on-ali-express-for-267-with-shipping.732898/
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...7b6&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
:mug:
 
OK.. Sorry for the extra post but once I get something in my head...
I just went to my bench and grabbed some bits, including one of the plain wooden chopsticks I tie my hair with and a SS 3/8" barb (screwed into a bulkhead so I can hold it easily) and 4mm ID EVABarrier. ..with your 5mm ID, it should be easier.
I use a heat gun but only because I've used it with plastics a million times before.. I recommend a pot of hot water unless you're very familiar with heatguns on plastic as they can be catastrophic overkill:
Here's the tools:
IMG_1650.jpg

Heat the tube:
heat4mmEB.jpg

Shove the tube up the chopstick and set it down 10 or so seconds to cool a bit;
IMG_1652.jpg

Then pull it off the chopstick and shove it on your barb;
IMG_1653.jpg

Just sayin'
:mug:
 
You can get up to double the diameter with heat and any smooth tapered object... You're in Tokyo; Use a chop-stick (preferably a laquered one... the chopsticks I use to put my hair in a bun are larger than 3/8") Here's 3mm ID EVABarrier swaged over a 1/4" (6.35mm) barb:
View attachment 854911
I've seen pics of other members swaging 4mm ID line over barbs..
As to Aliexpress: Fellow member @fluketamer recently bought a kegerator from ali for $267, at this moment it lists for $558.43...it really does constntly change up and down. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...-on-ali-express-for-267-with-shipping.732898/
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...7b6&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
:mug:
But why? Use a larger hose, and attach to the fermentor. That 4mm ID line is going to slow your transfer.. This is not for serving correct? Open it up, prevent clogs, transfer faster.. Dump that 4mm stuff for transferring uncarbed(?) beer..
 
You can get up to double the diameter with heat and any smooth tapered object... You're in Tokyo; Use a chop-stick (preferably a laquered one... the chopsticks I use to put my hair in a bun are larger than 3/8") Here's 3mm ID EVABarrier swaged over a 1/4" (6.35mm) barb:
Chopsticks definitely have a ton of uses other than food. For the past 20+ years, I've used disposable chopsticks to hold a floating tremolo in place when changing strings on my guitar (usually with just the lowest and highest strings still on, then changed out after the middle strings have been changed out).

Hopefully I won't have to do any swaging, but I've definitely noted that I can swage hoses a lot more than I had assumed possible. So far, I've just used a hair dryer to heat up my hoses before attaching them, but hot water would definitely be better if I needed the hose to stretch more.
 
You can get up to double the diameter with heat and any smooth tapered object... You're in Tokyo; Use a chop-stick (preferably a laquered one... the chopsticks I use to put my hair in a bun are larger than 3/8") Here's 3mm ID EVABarrier swaged over a 1/4" (6.35mm) barb:

But why? Use a larger hose, and attach to the fermentor. That 4mm ID line is going to slow your transfer.. This is not for serving correct? Open it up, prevent clogs, transfer faster.. Dump that 4mm stuff for transferring uncarbed(?) beer..
Agreed! I was just assuming OP wanted to transfer beer using what was already on hand rather than waiting for new and more appropriate parts. I have a bad habit of leaning into 'macguyvering'
:mug:
 
Agreed! I was just assuming OP wanted to transfer beer using what was already on hand rather than waiting for new and more appropriate parts. I have a bad habit of leaning into 'macguyvering'
:mug:
If you look at the oxidation thread, you'll see that this ALMOST went well. Of the 4 connection points (the 5mm on the beer quick disconnect, the 5mm to the coupler, the 10mm to the spigot, and the 10mm to the coupler), 3 of them went really well, but 1 of them leaked (specifically the 10mm to the coupler). I'm going to need to find a better coupler size. The 6.5mm worked great for the 5mm, though, I could only get it partially on there, but it was snug enough of a fit that there was zero leaking there, but the 10mm still ended up being too big, even with a clamp tightening it down as much as I could, so it leaked. Of the 11 liters I transferred, I'd say probably about 100ml of it leaked.

I guess the coupler I used was a half-assed MacGuyvering of it. I think I probably should have found something more like a 6.5mm to 11mm or 12mm and just stretched the 10mm to fit instead of having it be slightly too big and trying to clamp it down.
 

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