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how do I use dme?

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Johnnyhamer

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I've always used lme but going to try something different. I've seen things on here about it clumping when adding to boil. Any tips are greatly appreciated.
 
Just add it slowly to your water, ideally a little bit before you reach boiling temp and definitely with your heat source turned off. Keep stirring while you add the DME, and it should dissolve pretty easily so long as your water is hot and you don't add the DME all at once.
 
open the bag and pour it into a bowl. slowly dump it in while stirring the water. if you pour it from the bag, the steam causes the dme to clump up in the bag, and can be hard to get out. watch it very closely when it starts to boil; dme boils over VERY easily. either be prepared to turn off the heat a couple times or use fermcap
 
Okay, I figure a third of it with hops for 60 minutes then add the rest with 10 minutes left. I'm also using grains for the first time so I'll do them first.
 
Okay, I figure a third of it with hops for 60 minutes then add the rest with 10 minutes left. I'm also using grains for the first time so I'll do them first.

sounds like a good plan. Many would say to add the last of the DME at flameout, or at the 0 minute mark when you turn the heat source off. As for grains, be sure that the water isn't too hot when you steep the grains, somewhere in the 160 range is about right. Too hot and you'll get some harsh flavors in there. Good luck!
 
open the bag and pour it into a bowl. slowly dump it in while stirring the water. if you pour it from the bag, the steam causes the dme to clump up in the bag, and can be hard to get out. watch it very closely when it starts to boil; dme boils over VERY easily. either be prepared to turn off the heat a couple times or use fermcap

I know it's going into boiling water. But does the bowl need to be sanitized? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
 
Brew2 said:
I know it's going into boiling water. But does the bowl need to be sanitized? Sorry if this is a stupid question.

No need. Also, DME seems to clump more at hotter temps. It dissolves best in warm to hot water I usually add it around 150.
 
Looks like you guys are treating DME the same as LME. they are not the same,& do not perform the same. You don't have to turn the heat off,you don't have to add it before the water/grain wort boils,Etc,etc. It's going to clump no matter what,so just stir as you add the DME slowly & it'll disolve. DME doesn't foam like mad the second it hits the boiling water/wort. I had it happen with wheat DME once.
The next time with the same DME it didn't happen. It's LME where you take the kettle off the heat to add,since it goes straight to the bottom. DME doesn't do that. I like to use it in the boil instead of LME,as it doesn't darken as readilly as LME does.
 
Is it okay to boil my hops in the already steeped "grain wort"? I don't want to scorch or risk caramelizing it. Or should I do my dme/hops and grains seperate at pitch?
 
When using steeping grains there arent usually much if any fermentables coming out of them. Mostly for color & flavor. finish the steep,then start hop additions with about 1.5-2lbs of the DME added for said additions. This would be in the average 2.5-3 gallon partial boil. I like using DME(plain) in the boil,as it dosen't darken as easilly as LME does. Adding the remaining extracts at flame out is fine,since the wort is still boiling hot. Since pasteurization happens about 162F,& it's still hotter than that,cover & steep for a few minutes after the late additions. Then chill wort & proceed normally. It works well for me this way.
 
When I do partial mash,where the grains make up 50% of the fermentables,using just the grain wort works. But when steeping,which usually uses less grains & gets few if any fermentables,a little extract is helpful to get good hop utilization.
In partial mash,in other words,I'm mashing 5lbs of grain & sparging to 3.5 gallons total boil volume. Steeping might use as little as 1/2lb of specialty or crystal grains in 2 gallons of water or so. so the resulting wort would be pretty light compared to partial mash volumes.
 
Thanks guys! Now just have to be patient on my orange hef in the fermentor before I can brew. Homebrewing certainly teaches you patience ...
 
As already stated, be ready for the DME to clump up on whatever you are dumping it out of. It's a super fine powder and easily absorbs the moisture from steam. After I dump it all in the boil I usually dip the part of my bowl that has the clumps on it in the boil too so I can be sure to get all the extract in there.
 
Yes,it certainly does. you learn to let the yeast do their thing in there own good time. We just make sure they have a comfy environment in which to do their thing.
 
I'm getting a lot of different information about steeping grains. Some say it provides NO fermentables while others say it does.

I am making a 2.5G batch of a fruit wheat using:

2-3 lbs of Wheat DME(I say 2-3 depending on other fermentables)
2lbs of Pilsen
.25 Carapils
.5Mount hood
 
Steeping grains are usually crystal or specialty grains. Carapils is one of them. They have been procesed so that they can be steeped rather than mashed. In other words,they're converted already. there might be some little fermentables in them,but they're mainly for color & flavor,which are provided by unfermentables,long story short.
Pilsner malt is a base malt & must be mashed to convert the starches to sugars. Otherwise,you could be getting a lot of starch haze.
 
Thanks Union, was hoping I could steep the Pilsen and Carapils together but guess not. Have an easy mash method for a noob?
 
When using steeping grains there arent usually much if any fermentables coming out of them. Mostly for color & flavor. finish the steep,then start hop additions with about 1.5-2lbs of the DME added for said additions. This would be in the average 2.5-3 gallon partial boil. I like using DME(plain) in the boil,as it dosen't darken as easilly as LME does. Adding the remaining extracts at flame out is fine,since the wort is still boiling hot. Since pasteurization happens about 162F,& it's still hotter than that,cover & steep for a few minutes after the late additions. Then chill wort & proceed normally. It works well for me this way.

Wouldn't it be a bad idea to cover at these temperature? I thought DMS was still produced and if you cover the wort it doesn't get out and lend in your beer. Or is it another myth :)
 
Wouldn't it be a bad idea to cover at these temperature? I thought DMS was still produced and if you cover the wort it doesn't get out and lend in your beer. Or is it another myth :)

No,since this is after the boil is done,& any DMS produced should've boiled off already in the open kettle. I just cover it at flame out after doing late extract additions.
@johnnyhammer-Ok,since you only have 2.25lbs of grains,you can mash them in 3QTs of water,prefferably distilled,RO,or spring water. If you have a paint strainer bag that'll fit your kettle,so much the better. Heat the water to 150F,then add the crushed grains,stiring to break up dough balls & evenly wet the grains. When the mixture comes up to 152-155F,take the kettle off the heat & wrap it in a winter coat,sleeping bag,or something thick & heavy with a lid on it for 1 hour.
Heat another pot with about a gallon of water to 165-168F. This is your sparge water. When the mash timer runs out,& say you didn't have a paint strainer bag for the grains,put a large fine mesh strainer over the BK,& pour the grains into the strainer. Allow to drain,then slowly pour the gallon of sparge water over them to rinse the goodies out. Allow to drain well again.
If your brew kettle is large enough,say 5 Gallons,you could even sparge with more water to get 2.5-3.5 gallons total boil volume. I always think it's better to get more grain goodness for the boil than just adding plain water.
Anyway,bring to a boil after adding 1.5-2lbs DME or other extract,stiring the resulting wort cause you'll get the foamy hot break right before it boils. A spray bottle of water helps here too.
When it boils,add the bittering hop addition & start the timer for 60 minutes. Proceed with your other hop additons. This sounds complicated,but it really is pretty simple once you do it.
 
Okay, after more reading I am fairly certain I can mash in a grain bag. After all, I am only mashing 2lbs.
 
Sounds great Union. I have a few large muslin bags but may just get a decent metal strainer. I'm so used to just hops and extract then adding to 1 gallon cold water. I'll just prepare it a ice bath before adding my yeast.
 
The thing that bugged me about those muslin grain sacks is they can't be rolled over the edge of the BK/MT like a paint strainer bag can. Made it hard to break up dough balls,which lowered efficiency,& thus,OG. Being able to stir the grains compounded by lack of $$ for AG equipment brought about the use of large 5G paint strainer bags for biab applications.
And mix the pilsner malt & carapils in the mash.
 
Valid point. Guess I need to make a Home Depot trip soon. Just realized the homebrew shop I order from sent me IO Star instead of Star San. Just called and they're sending me out some Star San
 
Cool. Starsan is so easy to use & so quickly effective,I can't imagine using anything else now. & the 5G paint strainer bags are a couple bucks at blowe's,homer cheapo,or FIY. Mine is 18 x 32 inches,a couple inches too skinny for my shorter wider 5G kettle. I could use a 20-22 inch wide one myself,but this one works for now. just makes life easier with being able to easily stir the grains for greater eficiency/higher OG's. Plus,after emptying them,they're easilly cleaned in a sink of warm water by dunking them up & down in it. That nylon cleans easier by far than the muslin does.
 
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