How do I get started?

[KimmyBee327]

What is the easiest and most inexpensive way to get started? Oddly enough, my college microbiology teacher is the one who got me interested in making my own hard cider. I love the angry orchard stuff but it's pretty expensive. So I'm just looking for a cheap way to give it a try to see if I'm interested in more advanced stuff.

 

[bernardsmith]

Won't be great but it will be very delicious and drinkable: Go to your local supermarket and pick up a bottle (half gallon or gallon ) of commercially made apple juice. It can be filtered or unfiltered but the key is that it cannot be chemically preserved - eg using sorbates - That will prevent any fermentation from starting. (A farmer's market will provide better unfiltered AJ but again, the only kind of preservative you want is that the AJ has been UV filtered or (sigh) heat pasteurized. Heat destroys volatile flavor molecules but you know that.
Simplest method is to use the sugars already in the AJ but you can add say, 0.5 lb of table sugar per gallon to increase the potential alcohol by about 2.3%. (you might use maple syrup or honey instead of cane sugar). I would expect the specific gravity of apple juice to be around 1.045 so its potential ABV (alcohol by volume) will be around 5- 6% (similar to a beer). Adding sugar will raise it to about 8%...
I would remove about a cup to 1.5 cups to allow for froth when fermentation takes off and I would add a bung and an airlock (suitably sanitized with K-meta-bisufite and then filled with water). A good dry yeast to use for cider is Premier Cuvee or 71B but you can use beer making yeasts such as Safale -05 or Nottingham. My guess is the apple juice will cost you about $3 for a gallon, the yeast about $1.50, the bung , about $2 and the airlock about 2.00. You can ferment the cider in the jug the AJ came in and given the volume you can bottle it in that container too. About $8.50 for a gallon (not counting the K-meta). Your second gallon will cost the price of the juice***
IMO, cider really needs some backsweetening so I would stabilize the cider after it has ceased fermenting and the gravity has stayed fixed around .996 or lower for at least 3 days. Stabilization is done with K-meta and K-sorbate (your local HBS will have those chemicals).
You can then bench test the level of sweetness you prefer: it may take enough sugar to raise the gravity to about 1.010. And that means that you will need to buy or get hold of an hydrometer - about $10.00. The hydrometer , bung and airlock are all re-usable, and the K-meta and K-sorbate come in bags from which you will be using very small amounts.
I would expect the active fermentation to end after about a week and it might take another two or three weeks for almost all the sugar to be fermented. The longer you are willing to wait the brighter (clearer) the cider will be. You may want to help clearing the cider by adding pectic enzyme to the cider about 12 hours before you pitch (add) the yeast. Apples have lots of pectins and pectins will create haziness and cloudiness in your cider. Remember , no heat unless you are looking to make jam and not cider, but as a student of microbiology you know that too.

*** If you are reasonably good at labwork you can harvest the yeast from the lees and use the harvested yeast for your second batch. Your microbiology prof may be able to help you look up some basic material covering that process: not at all complex and requires no special equipment, except your fridge.

Good luck , KimmyBee.

 

[jtratcliff]

Also look at the recipe known here as "Ed Wort's Apfelwein"...
Very easy and tasty German style hard cider.

You could use a balloon over the mouth of the jug instead of a bung and airlock if you wanna go old school.

I don't back sweeten, so if your preference is for dry cider, taste it first before going to effort of stabilizing and back sweetening. I do bottle and lightly carbonate, though. Still is also good but I like the slight fizz.

Dead easiest is to buy a 1 gallon jug, take out a cup (can add it back slowy as fermentation slows). Sprinkle in some dry yeast. Pop on a balloon as an airlock and wait a month or two until the cider clears.

Once clear, drink or bottle.

 

[bernardsmith]

Yeah, As jtratcliff suggests, a balloon - or a condom, but you need to use a pin to prick a hole in it to allow the CO2 to escape.

 

[KimmyBee327]

Wow, thanks for all the info. I have taken a lot of biology courses but this is my first microbiology class so I'm not all the knowledgeable about the whole process. But I'm sure my teacher would be willing to help me out. She's pretty awesome. My aim for my first go at it is to go for cheap and good. So I think I'll try the apple juice, yeast and a balloon. Maybe a dumb question, but do I just let it sit or do I need to shake it up sometimes? And another stupid question, do I keep it in the fridge?

 

[moorebrews123]

Just let it sit, the fermentation is moving the juice around by itself

 

[worlddivides]

^Exactly what this poster said. If you watch videos of fermentation, you'll see that it can be pretty violent. The stuff at the bottom will go up to the top and the stuff at the top will go to the bottom. The yeast really gets active in moving everything around. Even after fermentation ends, the yeast will continue to clean things up, although you won't see things moving around anymore.

 

[bernardsmith]

The yeast you choose will advise you on the temperature at which you should ferment your must. Typically this will be in the mid 60's so you don't want to chill your must ("must", by the way, is the technical term for fruit juice before you add (pitch) the yeast. Always better (IMO) to ferment at the lower temperature recommended. This is less likely to stress the yeast and less likely to create what are called fusels - forms of alcohol that don't have the kinds of flavors that you will prefer

 

[Maylar]

Read this:

http://www.howtomakehardcider.com/

 

[podz]

Obtain a 1-gallon glass jug from somewhere. Take it with you to a homebrew store and ask to buy a bung, an airlock, and a packet of dry champagne yeast. Total cost should be 5 bucks or something.

Go to the supermarket and buy a gallon of the cheapest apple juice you can find, without preservatives other than vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Also get some raisins without preservatives, those will work OK for yeast nutrient but you might not like tannins in your cider (I don't) in which case you can just buy some yeast nutrient while you're at the homebrew store.

This about 10 bucks investment to make a gallon of cider, and the jug-bung-airlock combo can be used over and over again. The yeast can even be used over and over again, if you don't feel like buying it again and again.

Good luck.

 

[Jacob_Marley]

Apple juice and cider tends to be low in nutrients so, unless you are going to manually add some (a chemical additive), you should stick with a yeast that has low nutrient requirements.

The yeast EC1118 (Lalvin) is a good choice. It is an aggressive yeast with low nutrient requirements, not likely to stall (crap-out before the ferment is complete), and does well at lower temperatures.
As bernardsmith notes above, fermenting at a temperature that is at the lower end of the suggested range for a particular yeast will help to avoid off smells ... particularly hydrogen sulfide ... a development that will definitely make your cider an initial disappointment in aroma & taste (to give you some idea, the problem is sometimes jokingly referred to as "rhino farts"). Some fruit based wines and especially cider are notorious for that problem with certain yeasts and conditions.

The other thing with cider ... you must absolutely follow careful sanitation and cleaning procedures. Unlike stronger versions of wine which contain sulfites and higher levels of alcohol which help to prevent the cider from going bad (also know as an "infection"), or beer - which is boiled at some point to kill any undesirable things in it ... cider has none of the above.
Read-up on this website and others around the internet on the procedure to clean equipment and maintain good sanitation ... you'll need to wash everything that comes in contact with the cider ... the bucket, the jug, the tubing, the bottles, the spoons ... everything ... Including your hands which need to be washed before coming in contact with the cider.

If you want to try a fermentation for your first attempt that is a bit more forgiving and easier, and will allow you a better chance to make a successful product ... while it is not cider you might search on homebrewtalk (or using google on the internet in general) for the recipe for something called JAO, or Joe's Ancient Orange ... which is a type of mead. If you do this, follow Joe Mattioli's original directions exactly. Very easy to do! ... one jug ... little equipment ... simpler sanitation ... simpler process ... and tastes good.
Then, if you want to try a cider for your second fermenting experiment, you'll have at least some idea of how fermenting works.

 

[bernardsmith]

If you want to try a fermentation for your first attempt that is a bit more forgiving and easier, and will allow you a better chance to make a successful product ... while it is not cider you might search on homebrewtalk (or using google on the internet in general) for the recipe for something called JAO, or Joe's Ancient Orange ... which is a type of mead. If you do this, follow Joe Mattioli's original directions exactly. Very easy to do! ... one jug ... little equipment ... simpler sanitation ... simpler process ... and tastes good.

Not sure I agree. JOAM is unique in that you MUST follow the directions precisely - including the use of bread yeast - The one thing that following Joe's recipe will NOT do is help you understand a single principle that fermentation is grounded upon. What Joe's (very clever) recipe does is make use of the undergirding principles but does not make those principles explicit: so eg, the use of bread yeast is precisely to stall the fermentation while there is still sugar left to be fermented. The use of the chunks of fruit is to use their drop to the bottom to alert the mazer (it is , after all a mead) to the unexplicated fact that CO2 is no longer being produced to keep the fruit afloat - and hence the instruction that you do not agitate the fermenter (which might remove CO2 and allow the fruit to fall too soon ). In other words, while Joe M understands the reason for each instruction the novice who follows his recipe would be no wiser or more capable of making a second batch of any mead or wine or cider if she or he made a successful batch of JOAM.

 

[Jacob_Marley]

Not sure I agree. JOAM is unique in that you MUST follow the directions precisely - including the use of bread yeast - The one thing that following Joe's recipe will NOT do is help you understand a single principle that fermentation is grounded upon. What Joe's (very clever) recipe does is make use of the undergirding principles but does not make those principles explicit: so eg, the use of bread yeast is precisely to stall the fermentation while there is still sugar left to be fermented. The use of the chunks of fruit is to use their drop to the bottom to alert the mazer (it is , after all a mead) to the unexplicated fact that CO2 is no longer being produced to keep the fruit afloat - and hence the instruction that you do not agitate the fermenter (which might remove CO2 and allow the fruit to fall too soon ). In other words, while Joe M understands the reason for each instruction the novice who follows his recipe would be no wiser or more capable of making a second batch of any mead or wine or cider if she or he made a successful batch of JOAM.

>> Not sure I agree. JOAM is unique in that you MUST follow the directions precisely

Firstly ... ah ... didn't I state in my post "follow Joe Mattioli's original directions exactly" ?
Mmmm. Thought so.

Regarding the idea that JAO is lacking as a first learning-experience ...
You are implying that she has to, with her very first ferment, understand the principles that Joe understood. That is absurd.

The Opening Poster states: "What is the easiest and most inexpensive way to get started?"
She has exactly 2 posts and absolutely no previous experience listed in her profile.

For someone with no experience *at all* in fermenting, the mere act of dissolving the sugar or honey, adding the yeast, using an airlock etc IS exactly and specifically what she requires as the very most basic understanding.
One foot in front of the other.
Don't assume that someone who has never done any of it before at all has the foggiest clue what comes before what or for that matter what a ferment even looks like.

At this very very base level, it is NOT the principles (as you suggested), but instead merely the mechanics.

The opening poster needs a successful, good tasting initial ferment. JAO is a hell of a lot more likely to give her that than an attempt at a cider ferment.

and btw: to specifically answer the question she asks in her second post ... No, kimmybee ... do not do the ferment inside your refigerator.

 

[Jacob_Marley]

One last thought ...
As the Original Poster mentioned being motivated to make cider after having liked the flavor of a commercial brand ... on the 2 pages of posts in the following thread there is some interesting information on attempts at duplicating the taste of commercial brands.

While the post is a very old one of mine ... as the desire to duplicate the taste of cider from large commercial operations is a common one, and has been frequently brought up by many people.

I'm reposting the link for anyone who might be interested ...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/questions-about-getting-right-flavor-389775/#post4899871

 

[bernardsmith]

I guess we need to agree to disagree. I cannot think of anything that is more simple - from a technical perspective than opening a bottle of apple juice - pouring out a cup, adding yeast and covering the mouth of the bottle or jug with a pierced balloon. Given the questions posted here about JOAM and on a significant mead makers forum, that process is not so simple when followed by novices but eminently clear when followed by those with many gallons of wine and cider and mead under their belt.
PS. Jacob, I was not suggesting that you never said that one does not need to follow directions. I was merely emphasizing that with JOAM you simply cannot not follow the instructions. It will not result in a successful brew - unlike most other approaches that are far more forgivable and open to the fermenter's own preferences and style. IMO, this is akin to the medieval Schoolman's approach to knowledge which focuses on the authority of the teacher and quite distant from the scientific method which focuses on the authority of the process and not the person.

 

[KimmyBee327]

I appreciate all the info. And after doing hours of my own research, as well as info from this site, I did go out and purchase a 6 gallon carboy, bung, airlock, yeast specific for cider, yeast nutrient, and apple juice. Started it on Monday night and so far so good. This is my first time, but based on the knowledge I do have, I believe it's going as it should be. I'm actually following the updated recipe on page 42 of the caramel apple hard cider thread. It sounds like it's going to be delicious.

 

[Hello]

I appreciate all the info. And after doing hours of my own research, as well as info from this site, I did go out and purchase a 6 gallon carboy, bung, airlock, yeast specific for cider, yeast nutrient, and apple juice. Started it on Monday night and so far so good. This is my first time, but based on the knowledge I do have, I believe it's going as it should be. I'm actually following the updated recipe on page 42 of the caramel apple hard cider thread. It sounds like it's going to be delicious.

That is fantastic! On a side note, apfelwein is basically apple wine. It is dry like white wine can be. I know you're not making it but it is indeed an easy way to make a cider but know the end result is a dry wine like product. Backsweetening would be key to bringing it back to the angry orchard realm.

I am happy to hear you sprung for the airlock.

 

[Jacob_Marley]

I appreciate all the info. And after doing hours of my own research, as well as info from this site, I did go out and purchase a 6 gallon carboy, bung, airlock, yeast specific for cider, yeast nutrient, and apple juice. Started it on Monday night and so far so good. This is my first time, but based on the knowledge I do have, I believe it's going as it should be. I'm actually following the updated recipe on page 42 of the caramel apple hard cider thread. It sounds like it's going to be delicious.

That's great kimmybee! Congrats on taking the plunge. That does sound like it will be delicious.

This pastime seems to be equal amounts of fermenting, reading and getting wet (from washing things) ... and of course drinking what you've made with friends.

Oh ... and also wandering through the grocery store, wondering what things will ferment.

A little while ago I realized my Other Half has become a mind reader. I'm at the supermarket, minding my own business, standing quietly reading labels ... and she says "What? - you're NOT thinking of making WINE out of that are you?". I'm looking at a jar of mincemeat. "No of course not" I say, "it contains meat".
I lied ... that is why I was looking at the label ... just - uh, double checking.
("Hello, I'm Jacob and I have a fermenting addiction" ... Room: "Hello Jacob!")

and btw: welcome to HBT, Kimmy!

 

[KimmyBee327]

Thanks! This is like my new little baby. Earlier, I was just sitting by it, watching it do it's thing. I have convinced pretty much everyone I know to be a taste tester so it had better turn out well! But this is science and I consider myself to be an exceptional science student, so it should all work out. Last night I went out with a friend and had a lemon hard cider that was pretty tasty. And hard root beer. Yum! I'm not sure what else I want to try but I'd love for you to throw some ideas at me. Since I'm new to this, I don't know what's good and what's not. I also included a picture from day 1.

 

[Jacob_Marley]

Kimmy ...
An early tip on your photo ..... you had ought to take action by the end of your primary ferment (that is, by the time things stop bubbling so much) to reduce the amount of "headspace" ... that is, the airspace between the cider and the airlock.
(search HBT for discussion on "headspace" ... hint: when searching HBT use google by going to the Google Advanced Search screen and putting the homebrewtalk.com on the "search domain" line, along with your search terms above).

Reducing headspace is commonly done in a number of ways ...
- make a bit more of the green cider (the unfermented cider) and top off the carboy (this additional cider top-off will, itself, also ferment of course).
-or add some glass beads designed for the purpose of raising the liquid level in the carboy (similar to marbles ... available at many brewers/vintners supplys)
-or move your batch to a smaller container ... something that may be most facilitable at your first racking. (the "first racking" is where you transfer the cider from your primary fermentation vessel [the carboy it is in now] into your secondary container(s).)

Of the obvious solutions, topping up with more apple/juice cider is probably the easiest solution. Even with the primary ferment going in a carboy you should be able to top off the level at least right up to where the neck narrows, leaving only a couple or few inches of headspace.

This is particularly important in cider making as cider is particularly at risk of problems with microbial infection, oxygenation related problems etc.

 

[podz]

Congrats on getting started correctly and do read the threads on carboy safety, it's not a joke. The ones sold in the US are made from exceptionally thin glass and if you so much as slightly bump them with a hard object they can break and send you to the hospital for emergency surgery. Especially be careful when holding it upside down to drain it out after you've washed it. Don't mess with carboy moving unless you've got a milk crate and a friend to help you, and don't do carboy maintenance (cleaning, etc) when you've been drinking.

Not meaning to scare you, just to inform you. I've got a glass carboy that I've been using for what? 16 years or so now and it hasn't broke yet. But it's made in Italy and a bit thicker glass than the ones sold in the US nowadays. I vastly prefer my demijohn over my carboy and only use the carboy when I'm making two batches of cider/wine at the same time.

 

[KimmyBee327]

So I should add more juice? I think I have a little bit more in my fridge that I could add. I was just following the recipe in this forum.

 

[Jacob_Marley]

So I should add more juice? I think I have a little bit more in my fridge that I could add. I was just following the recipe in this forum.

Yep. That should be fine.
If you had much larger an amount to add, you would increase the amount of everything you'd put into the cider (I didn't read that carmel recipe but that would be things like any flavorants, sugars, nutrients etc) ... but you should be fine adding the straight cider. Ideally with the new cider at close'ish to the same temperature that the carboy is already at. Hopefully it will be enough to get it pretty much up to the neck where the carboy narrows.

If you can't eliminate the headspace exactly today, you are still protected while the primary fermentation is bubbling as a layer of carbon dioxide will form and protect the surface of your fermenting cider ... but when the bubbles significantly slow or stop ... the headspace needs to be dealt with.

 

[Jacob_Marley]

... I was just following the recipe in this forum.

that could have been a recipe for a 5-gallon carboy (?) ... like I say I did not read the recipe on that other thread.

For what it's worth, one of the nice things about a 6 gallon carboy is that when you "rack" the cider or wine off of, and away from the sediment that will settle in the bottom of the carboy, you can just rack it right into a 5 gallon carboy for it's next leg of the journey ("aging in the secondary") and the volume difference left over ... the residual ... the *gratuity* ... can be a nice opportunity to enjoy the fruits of your labor early ... ah ... if one is so inclined ;-)

The alternative, when racking between equal sized carboys or containers, is that you will generally be a bit short in the fresh carboy as you will have left a bit of volume, along with the sediment, in the original carboy ... and consequently will have to "top up" some how.

 

[podz]

If you add juice to an already fermenting cider, you will possibly create a gusher. It's happened to me before. Took more than an hour before I could put the airlock back on.

That amount of headspace is perfectly fine for fermentation.

 

[KimmyBee327]

Good to know! I definitely don't want a gusher! The recipe is for 5.25 gallons of juice in a 6 gallon carboy, which is what I have.

 

[Maylar]

You'll be fine with that. The space above the cider gets filled with CO2 during active fermentation. CO2 is heavier than air and pushes out any oxygen that might affect the cider. When and if you rack to secondary (in your recipe that's optional) it becomes more of an issue, and there are ways to deal with it.

Good luck with your brew.

 

[KimmyBee327]

Ok, it's been going for 5 days now and my airlock is hardly bubbling any more when it had been going nearly constantly a couple of days ago. Is this normal?

 

[jtratcliff]

Yup perfectly normal... primary fermentation will slow down...

 

[jtratcliff]

But remember, bubbles in an airlock are *not* an adequate gauge of fermentation.

You'll see plenty of posts on this forum pounding that point home.

Give it enough time to finish (patience, Grasshopper) and then check with a hydrometer.

There are plenty of other reasons besides fermentation for bubbles to form (or not form) in the airlock.