Hop stand/ whirlpool question

[Turfgrass]

Is it one technique or the other when doing hop additions, or do you steep some hops for a given time after flameout and then turn on the whirlpool? What/when is there an aroma addition? Thanks.

 

[jekeane]

Whirlpool = using a pump or stirring with a spoon to maintain constant movement of the wort and hops.

Whirlpool Addition = an addition that can give aroma and or bittering. Added after the boil either in the form of a hop stand or while chilling.

If you are looking to get bitterness out of your whirlpool then add @ 180° and do a whirlpool hop stand for 15-45 minutes. There is no active chilling at this time you are doing a hop stand while whirlpooloing.

If you are looking for just aroma chill to 140° ish drop your hops in and continue chilling while whirlpooling.


I have seen a bunch of different people do different things but this is the general idea.

In order to know an estimate of what you are getting in bitterness from whirlpool hops you need to use a program like beersmith unless you can find the math somewhere.

I generally do a 180° stand for 15 minutes sometimes followed by another charge of hops at 140° that dont get a stand.

More important than whirlpooling to save hop aroma is reducing oxygen exposure after fermentation and dry hopping in my opinion.

 

[Turfgrass]

So, the pump is always on from flameout until primary transfer. I just wasn’t sure if the after boil/flamout was allowed to rest for a period of time with a hop addition and no wort movement in the kettle. I guess the term “steep” has been throwing me off. Great info, btw.

Any worries with DMS at some of those temps? I plan on mostly using 2-row, carapils and flaked wheat. Thanks again.

 

[jekeane]

So, the pump is always on from flameout until primary transfer. I just wasn’t sure if the after boil/flamout was allowed to rest for a period of time with a hop addition and no wort movement in the kettle. I guess the term “steep” has been throwing me off. Great info, btw.



Any worries with DMS at some of those temps? I plan on mostly using 2-row, carapils and flaked wheat. Thanks again.

As for DMS as long as you are doing a proper rolling boil I don’t think you would have any issues.

If I were doing a primarily Pilsner malt beer I might consider doing a 140 whirlpool and just get my bitterness from boil contribution.

Anecdotally I’ve done a 20 minute stand at 180-160 ish on a Pilsner that was boiled 75 minutes with no dms.

 

[Renegade Brewer]

Very solid answers above. I’ll just add that the term whirlpool is a little misleading in the homebrew world. Most homebrewers aren’t setup to complete an actual whilrpool like a commercial setup can accomplish. With this being said, we can get close with things like the Ss Brew Tech brewmaster edition kettle which is ported and comes with a whirlpool attachment. Couple that with a stainless pump and a plate chiller and you’re about as close as you can get on the homebrew scale.

As for hop utilization, the above poster nailed it with the temps. Some recipes you’ll see flameout which is your steeping hop addition. Usually this is to derive the beta acids from the hops without isomerizing your alpha acids. This is a great way to get that unique hop flavor and aroma.

On the homebrew scale if you toss your hops in at flameout then begin chilling your wort while using your sanitized spoon to create a “whirlpool” action in your kettle, you’ll see nice results. Also during this phase the whirlflock tabs can do their job and you will end up with a clearer cleaner wort

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I use a stainless whirlpool arm that just drops in from the top and a chugged pump. Works great with no special kettle or mods.

I frequently do a flameout addition with the whirlpool going and pretty much immediately chill to 170. Another addition and whirlpool at that temp for 30 minutes. After that I chill! With wp still going. When I hit pitch temp I shut down the pump and let the trub settle for 10 minutes. Then transfer to the ferm.+