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Hop spider woes solved! In stainless!

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I have seen people posting mixed results with this, I don't have a problem and can let my bag hit the bottom. I am using an electric stove (not the kind where your pot sits right on the coil) and my pot has a domed bottom.

The melting point of nylon is listed as 374*F or possibly higher. Will the liquid in your pot be able to get hot enough to melt the nylon? No. Will the bottom of your pot (when touching a element or flame directly) beable to have a localized heat that is high enough to melt it, def possible.
 
I have all the materials for this build...

Have a question. I have use a 16QT kettle for partial mash/partial boils on my gas stove-top. The 5 gallon bag will hit the bottom of the kettle.

Any concerns with the mesh bag burning/melting due to the heat generated at the bottom of the kettle?

Nothing says you have to fasten the bag at the neck of the bag. Just "choke up" on the bag so that it does not touch the bottom of the keggle...
 
I made a temp PVC one and I clamp the bag to the top. The fine nylon bags from my lhbs are 19x12 I think which are very very big in my 5gal pot. I roll down the tops with the spider on the top but no water in the pot till its just hanging above with about 1/2" between the bottom of the bag and the pot, then I clamp it.

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Quick update i got a STEAL on a stainless steel insinkerator flange at lowes on super clearance. $1.19 after tax!!


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Now I just have to find stainless steel bolts, washers & nuts
 
How are you guys drilling these? I just spent half an hour, used WD40 as lube, drilled slow, etc. Nothing got hot. Didn't even get through one. New bit time?
 
Definitely get yourself a good drill bit for a smaller starter hole. Once you get through it is easier to widen it. I broke 5 older drill bits on this because I was lazy and didn't want to run back out to the store.
 
I assume a step bit will be too big, yeah? I'll need one eventually for drilling my pots, figured it might work for now.
 
Quick update i got a STEAL on a stainless steel insinkerator flange at lowes on super clearance. $1.19 after tax!!


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Now I just have to find stainless steel bolts, washers & nuts

Any chance you saved your reciept/packaging ?? I am trying to locate one of these, and having the part number/SKU or anything you can provide will help me locate a Lowes in my area that I can find one. Thanks
 
Thanks for this thread. Made my copy of yours today. I didn't like the idea of the PVC being close to boiling wort so this was a great option. Here it is


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Yes the one in Woburn. I got the last one. They sell the same one on amazon. 12.99 I think. Still a great price I still have to drill the holes tho
 
Building one of these this weekend. Problem is my kettle is wider than keggles, don't think I can get away with 6" bolts. I'll have to measure tonight. What other option would be best? All Home Depot had was bigger ones in Zinc.
 
Building one of these this weekend. Problem is my kettle is wider than keggles, don't think I can get away with 6" bolts. I'll have to measure tonight. What other option would be best? All Home Depot had was bigger ones in Zinc.

I would then just go with stainless threaded rod. You can then cut it to size, sand the ends to smooth and it should work well.
 
I made mine with a 1/4" stainless all-thread rod that I found at Home Depot for about 5.99. Lowe's likely has it also. Just cut it to size and smooth your threads down so you can thread your nuts on and not dice your fingers one day.
Trying to find stainless carriage bolts long enough for my kettle was impossible also.
 
From a practical standpoint, why are these built with three 'legs'? Two should suffice because gravity is going to keep the bag side down.

Also, why don't people use inexpensive turnbuckle bodies to create a 'press fit' below the edge of the kettle so that one can choose to use a pot lid if needed? They are 2 bucks at HD and you can use bolts as you see fit in the turnbuckle body rather than the eye bolts in the package. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...53&langId=-1&keyword=turnbuckle&storeId=10051

That said, I go commando and free-ball all my boils with no bags.
 
Bargain fittings has the best price around on step bits. He ships fast and sells em for about 13 bucks IIRC. Local box stores want way way more and theres is made in china. Give it a look before you buy.
Bob
 
HopsJunkie said:
I would then just go with stainless threaded rod. You can then cut it to size, sand the ends to smooth and it should work well.

You may want to tread the nut onto the rod prior to cutting it. After you've cut to length just twist the nut off to clean the threads. I have found that to be helpful..
 
From a practical standpoint, why are these built with three 'legs'? Two should suffice because gravity is going to keep the bag side down.

Also, why don't people use inexpensive turnbuckle bodies to create a 'press fit' below the edge of the kettle so that one can choose to use a pot lid if needed? They are 2 bucks at HD and you can use bolts as you see fit in the turnbuckle body rather than the eye bolts in the package. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...53&langId=-1&keyword=turnbuckle&storeId=10051

That said, I go commando and free-ball all my boils with no bags.

Three legs ARE better than just two. If the legs are bumped and it falls into the wort you are in for quite a fishing trip to get that thing out. If you bump a 3-legged spider one might fall, but the other two are there to keep it up out of the wort.
 
I had the same idea a while ago and came up with this.

Its a little more pricey but works well.

I like it as it gives me a larger hole to put the hops in.

I actually taped 1/4" holes on the sides so the threaded rod didn't stick into the inside as to scrape my hands as I put hops in.

I also use the 5 gallon paint strainer bags to give more room for the hops to flow around in, due to the depth of my 20 gallon boil kettle.

/Stainless-Concentric-Coupling-Butt-Weld-Schedule
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What is the best way to drill through the ss? I don't have a drill press unfortunately only a cordless which I think might not be powerful enough to get through the metal. Also what type of bit is the best to use? If I can't do it myself where is the best type of place to bring it?
 
Yeah I have clamps. And the bit type?

I use Cobalt bits but most will do fine. The key is moderate pressure and quick pulse's of the trigger no more than 1-2 second burst. Stainless is not forgiving if heated. Once you heat the bit its trash. If it quits cutting sharpen or get a new bit. If you run the drill up in speed with a dull bit you will temper the hole making it much harder to continue drilling it.
 
I just built the regular PVC hop spider and loved it. Did an IPA on 5/5 for national homebrewers day and it worked great. I was a little worried after I saw the OP's melted, but then re-read that it was because of the lid. Mine never got that warm.
 
I did 10 Gallons of BM's Centennial Blonde yesterday and my PVC spider warped. So next brew will have an updated version with this flange.
 
thewurzel said:
I had the same idea a while ago and came up with this.

Its a little more pricey but works well.

I like it as it gives me a larger hole to put the hops in.

I actually taped 1/4" holes on the sides so the threaded rod didn't stick into the inside as to scrape my hands as I put hops in.

I also use the 5 gallon paint strainer bags to give more room for the hops to flow around in, due to the depth of my 20 gallon boil kettle.

Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Concentric-Coupling-Butt-Weld-Schedule/dp/B003RWTYZA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1336327571&sr=1-1-catcorr

What size did you buy? I'm looking to go to bigger batches and a bigger pot and this seems like a good idea
 
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