• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Hop aroma question

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Chrisbrewbeers

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
226
Reaction score
16
Location
Richmond
I'm starting to wonder if I just do more of an under 10 minute addition of hops and a 30 or so minute hop stand(which I always do and enjoy the oiliness)..... That this will be same or comparable to a 2 oz dry hop . Which causes me trouble with bottling and reusing yeast. It might add an hour to brew day but I let sit for another 30-60 min after chilling and can get real clear wort in fermenter. I'm just not blown away by continuing on the path I have been on.
I bought a 6 pack of sweet water ipa one night and the aroma blew me away more than any beer I ever had... It had no date I remember seeing but must have been fresh.
 
I get the best hop aroma when I dry hop. But, as I also find dry hopping to be somewhat of a PITA, so I will usually drop in a couple ounces at flame out with a hopstand, then drop in another couple ounces when I fire up the chiller. This gives a nice, solid aroma that's only slightly lacking in comparison to a dry hop, without any of the headache.
 
I really think that with what Im working with, no dryhop is best or at least easiest and most problem free for the time being. Thanks for the input my friend.
 
I do late additions (15, 10 and/or 5 min) plus a 30 min hop stand at 170F plus dry hopping and get great aroma. Some hops seem to give more aroma than others with this process. Cascade, citra and apollo give me good results. Others not so much. I also use a tight-woven nylon hop bag for dry hopping (NOT a muslin bag) and get no hop residue. Not really sure about any hop flavor that may transfer to the yeast since I have never harvested from one of my IPAs.
 
I use sanitized muslin hop socks to contain the gunk of dry hopping. No problems with yeast washing, much less gunk in the bottles.
 
I'm not a fan of using a secondary for dry hopping, but this seems like a fine reason to do so! Transfer the finished beer to another vessel and dry hop, and save yeast from first.

I think it is hard to match the aroma that dry hopping provides with kettle additions. Can you get close with late additions and hop stands; yeah, but I think it takes greater amounts and time. Your choice!
 
Most of the problem I have is hop particles clogging the bottle wand. I just yesterday bottled an ipa no dryhop
Vermont ipa yeast
10lb pearl
2lb Vienna
1lb whitewheat
4oz50-60l
4oz acidulated
1oz magnum 60
2ozmosaic 15
4oz falconers 10
2oz chinook flameout
30 min hopstand
Og 1.058
Fg 1.006
I have improved efficiency dramatically by milling slower on batches in pipeline, still figuring it out.
 
I realize from a previous one that pearl will Stand alone without any crystal. It wasn't ready by the time I brewed that one. Hops in primary have just really pissed me off, the result was not worth it at 2oz.
 
Back
Top