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These are great! My wife is a potter and I've had her make me a couple of mugs and snifters, but I always thought that jugs like this were only good for whiskey and moonshine. Prove me wrong so that I can get her to make me some of these!
 
I just returned from break and was eager to check my bottles. I gave two away over christmas so I only have two left with beer. The blue jug style had spots of sticky dried beer all over the side, so I figured it had either broken somewhere or had been leaking out of the top from not being tight enough. However when I opened the top it made a very loud pop and this is what I got,

2013-01-03_15-33-10_982_zps3ff37a9b.jpg


2013-01-03_15-35-02_185_zps5a94680a.jpg


I was pretty startled because I had thought that it had lost any carbonation. You can see all the little sticky spots in the picture, my best guess is that the inside didn't get completely glazed and the beer made its way through the porous clay wall to the outside, because there are tiny little chip like spots where the sticky beer was. Anyways I found it to be quite strange.

The second bottle I have still looks perfectly fine and I will get some more photos whenever I open it, probably sometime this next week.
 
I just returned from break and was eager to check my bottles. I gave two away over christmas so I only have two left with beer. The blue jug style had spots of sticky dried beer all over the side, so I figured it had either broken somewhere or had been leaking out of the top from not being tight enough. However when I opened the top it made a very loud pop and this is what I got,

2013-01-03_15-33-10_982_zps3ff37a9b.jpg


2013-01-03_15-35-02_185_zps5a94680a.jpg


I was pretty startled because I had thought that it had lost any carbonation. You can see all the little sticky spots in the picture, my best guess is that the inside didn't get completely glazed and the beer made its way through the porous clay wall to the outside, because there are tiny little chip like spots where the sticky beer was. Anyways I found it to be quite strange.

The second bottle I have still looks perfectly fine and I will get some more photos whenever I open it, probably sometime this next week.

I don't know why it's over carbonated. My only guess was that it wasn't done fermenting and started again once you bottled or there was too much priming sugar added.

I'm also puzzled by the beer spots on the bottle. The outside is glazed from what I can tell so it would seem that even if the inside wasn't glazed completely the outside glaze would have stopped any leaks. Maybe the pressure from the over carbonation caused it to force it's way out?

Either way, this is a great experiement because I'm trying to get my wife to do this for me. Keep us posted!:mug:
 
Well I'm a little peeved, apparently one of my roommates friends opened my ceramic bottle from the fridge last night after I had gone to bed. So that is a little upsetting and I wasn't able to get any photos. Anyways I asked him if it was at least carbonated since it was a two month long experiment that I was working on, response, "Oh, sorry, it was a little bit flat..."

So there you go, I guess it didn't hold the pressure very well as it was a little bit flat. I will ask the people I gave the other two bottles to take photos when they open them and hopefully I can get them posted here. In the mean time I am working on a slip casting bottle project and will be throwing more bottles as well.
 
You were just using the EZ-top to seal it, correct? In my experience they won't work for long term storage even in commercial glass bottles. Have to cap it then use the EZ-top when serving. Mostly aesthetic. OK for mead where I might drink a liter over a couple days.
 
You were just using the EZ-top to seal it, correct? In my experience they won't work for long term storage even in commercial glass bottles. Have to cap it then use the EZ-top when serving. Mostly aesthetic. OK for mead where I might drink a liter over a couple days.

Grolsch will be disappointed to hear that! :D
 
JohnWilliamson062 said:
You were just using the EZ-top to seal it, correct? In my experience they won't work for long term storage even in commercial glass bottles. Have to cap it then use the EZ-top when serving. Mostly aesthetic. OK for mead where I might drink a liter over a couple days.

Nah man that ain't true.. I've kept beer for years in swing tops with no difference noticeable.
 
Grolsch will be disappointed to hear that!
I thought about Grolsch LONG before I posted that, but what do you think their shelf life is? Do you think they want bottles out for 2-3 months in the light?

From my post above you might think I meant they are only good for a few days. That obviously isn't true, but the first time I reused swing tops(I think Grolsch), I sealed with the stopper and they were flat 6 months later. Not sure at what point in between they went flat. The capped bottles were fine. There may have been some other deviance in the process, but I don't think so.
 
I've found the swing tops to be very inconsistant. Grolsch/Fisher seem in my usage to work about 90% of the time, with the EZ-Cap working about 30-40%. I think the Ceramic tops on the commercial ones seal better than the plastic ones that EZ-Cap uses. I had some Cider that was over 2 years old that was perfectly carbed, but other bottles didn't ever carb up. It's just really hit and miss with them. When I first started I bought 4 cases of the EZ bottles, one got lost in the move and the other 3 are only used for Cider so if it is flat no real big deal. Now that I started Kegging I will probably just use them to fill a few to take somewhere from the keg.

I would think it would be really hard to get a good enough opening to seal really great on a home-made bottle. The gaskets aren't real flexible so if it isn't close to perfect I could see a problem with it sealing correctly.

That being said, the bottle are really cool looking, and would be awesome if you could get them to work.
 
There is a trade off when using flip tops of any kind. Easier to cap your bottles when bottling, but more maintenance before you bottle. If the gaskets are worn, dry, or dirty (on either side), there WILL be problems. If you aren't removing the gasket to inspect and clean, expect to have a few fizz out. When I first started using them I just cleaned and inspected them (brief look) while on the bottle and always had 4-6 per batch that lost carbonation. Once I began removing them to clean thoroughly and truly inspect, I cant remember even one loosing carbonation. For the record, I bottle nearly all my holiday type beers in flip top that sit for 9-12 months before consuming, and have yet had one fail (just found some wood to knock on...).
 
I have noticed that with most store bought flip top style bottles that the gaskets tend to be glued to the lid so that there is only a possible leak on one side.
 
so the bigger question is this: why did one bottle hold carbonation well and cause the beer to fizz out of the top when opened while the other bottles didn't hold carbonation at all?
 
My guess is that there is some variation to how tight the lids are being held down because there are slight differences in how far down the holes are that hold the entire mechanism to the bottle. I can tweak the metal wire in order to get a tighter or looser fit and on the next batch I might make sure all the caps flip on much tighter in order to hopefully seal better. Any thoughts?
Also revvy had mentioned pressure testing the bottles before hand in order to see if they would stand up to the pressure of carbonation. Does anybody know of a way to do this, preferably safely? Because it would be handy on my next batch of bottles.
 
My guess is that there is some variation to how tight the lids are being held down because there are slight differences in how far down the holes are that hold the entire mechanism to the bottle. I can tweak the metal wire in order to get a tighter or looser fit and on the next batch I might make sure all the caps flip on much tighter in order to hopefully seal better. Any thoughts?
Also revvy had mentioned pressure testing the bottles before hand in order to see if they would stand up to the pressure of carbonation. Does anybody know of a way to do this, preferably safely? Because it would be handy on my next batch of bottles.

before freaking too much about one bottle that did not carb, didn't you mention your basing this off the word of a roommates friend? Obviously he doesn't have respect for other peoples things, but does he have the knowledge of beer needed to even worry about what his opinion is?
 
My guess is that there is some variation to how tight the lids are being held down because there are slight differences in how far down the holes are that hold the entire mechanism to the bottle. I can tweak the metal wire in order to get a tighter or looser fit and on the next batch I might make sure all the caps flip on much tighter in order to hopefully seal better. Any thoughts?
Also revvy had mentioned pressure testing the bottles before hand in order to see if they would stand up to the pressure of carbonation. Does anybody know of a way to do this, preferably safely? Because it would be handy on my next batch of bottles.

Very un-scientific way, but you could always put a few alka-seltzer, or just vinegar & baking soda in them and cap them. No clue on the amount of pressure that would build, but it would at least prove they are air tight before wasting beer.
 
@Irish Red- I am basing it on the word of a roommates friend so yes it is taken with a grain of salt, however I do know that the individual would notice if it was as carbonated as he is a beer drinker. Also I know that the beer in other bottles, glass as well as the one jug, was quite bubbly and made quite a bit of foam, so my guess is that he would have hopefully noticed. So I am guessing that it is very possible it could have been flat. And not necessarily freaking out, just thinking of ways that could ensure a better seal :mug:

@JeepDiver- I like that idea at least for testing if any gases are leaking out. Perhaps I will try this and put the bottle underwater and inspect for bubbles. However it would also be nice to see what kind of pressure the bottles could withstand.
 
THere is a device for muzzleloaders that uses a CO2 cartridge to eject an un-fired load. It just threads in. Drilling a plastic top, gluing a fitting into it, then attaching the item would not be too difficult and should provide a reasonably consistent pressure from bottle to bottle. I think there is a similar device for kegging.

Of course, you could do the same thing with a normal air compressor and step up the regulator slowly.

The first mug I made was put in a kiln next to some other students final project, an ornate castle about 2'X2'X2'. I made the walls too thick and the pressure of the heated water fractured the ceramic mug and sent pieces through the kiln at high velocity. The castle was ravaged with pieces going straight through it. I highly recommend a video camera or at least eye protection if you really want to test it.
 
Sorry to hear of your ravaged castle, you definitely have to give thicker pieces a good time to fully dry in order to fire them. And I agree of using some kind of safety shield if I did rig up a way to pressure test them.
 
... I suppose this first bottling if they hold carbonation will be the test. I don't imagine them having a problem, however I don't have a lot of experience with brewing and carbonating.

Ceramics are pretty tough. It they survive the kiln and cooling off, they are pretty strong. Even a good potter probably throws thicker than a standard glass bottle.

I wonder, ,,,,get an average yield strength for common ceramics and model it in Solidworks?

Have you considered slip casting and copying one you really like?
 
Have you considered slip casting and copying one you really like?

This is my next project, I am working on making the molds for two pieces this weekend. However I will continue to throw them as well. In seven weeks or so I will be doing a wood fire with all my new work. My plan is to make multiple matching bottles with a nice case to go with them, of course with slight variations from the wood firing.
 
This is my next project, I am working on making the molds for two pieces this weekend. However I will continue to throw them as well. In seven weeks or so I will be doing a wood fire with all my new work. My plan is to make multiple matching bottles with a nice case to go with them, of course with slight variations from the wood firing.

Your bottles are really beautiful.

It's been decades since I threw anything.
 
Thank you very much, I enjoy making them and am excited with the possibilities.
 
With everyone of your updates the temptation to clear away a decade of dust and search out a clay source grows.

I have never done slip molds. Seems perfect though.
 
Those look awesome. I found a bottle capper at a second hand shop the other day along with caps and some longnecks. To see if the capper worked properly I got some bi-carb soda and vinegar mixed them in the bottle and sealed it up. I the. Submerged the bottle in water to a check for leaks and all was well. Would this work for your ceramics? Is what I did at all an indication that the bottles are sealed properly?
 
I'm sure it is a fine check, however trying to regulate to amount of pressure is the problem. You want enough to verify the seal, but not enough to potentially cause shards of glass or ceramics flying.
 

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