Homebrewdude's Electric Brewing

[duckdogs]

Haha nice, so you have been brewing all grain using propane explains the reason behind thinking you need more than one element in the BK once you use electric you will not want to use LP gas again. Been brewing sense the mid 90's and used gas once I went electric I was impressed with the power and the lack of noise being able to brew inside with the doors closed in winter, not feeling like you had been standing in a room with a jet engine running for the last 6 hours when done with a brew.

 

[homebrewdude76]

Well I am spoiled, I have been in a heated garage.
I had a brew stand set up to make 3 batches at one time.
3 mash tuns and 3 boil pots.
But with propane I had to open the door and let the cold in.

Now, I am hoping to avoid that!
And moving to one big batch!

 

[homebrewdude76]

Still been "thinking" on this.
My lack of ability to silver solder the fittings on my tanks really slowed this down..

So now I am thinking of what I need for elements.
5500w for the BK
5500w for the HLT

A third element option for a future RIMS tube.
Been reading on these, and it seems a 220v element running at 120v is a good option. I am not into step mashes.

So I would have a switch to allow the BK or the RIMS to be on.
But not both at the same time.
This should keep me within the 50a limit.

Trying to determine how many PID's I need.
I am thinking just three

 

[duckdogs]

You could get away with 2 if you put say your BK & the tube on a switch so they couldn't be fired at the same time. You don't need a sensor in the BK just one connected to the PID. Use the sensor in the tube.


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[homebrewdude76]

Yes, I could do that.

But I want to be able to heat my mash and sparge water in the HLT and BK at the same time.
Then pump Sparge water into the HLT after the mash-in.
All to speed up the water heating process.

So I would need a PID and temp probe for each element.
Not a big deal, it is just money

Also might simplify wiring depending on if I run a 220v or 120v RIMS element?
Not sure yet. Could I make this an option with a selection switch?

 

[homebrewdude76]

Any reason to go with a PID with a timer?
Is it just a money thing?

 

[duckdogs]

With the switch option you could still run the HLT and BK at the same time. depending on how your plumbing would be set up, if you wanted to heat the water in the BK to say 160 just cycle it threw the tube past the probe the PID would regulate the temp firing the BK element rather than the tube element.

1 PID dedicated HLT
2 PID switched to fire either the BK or your tube

I'm sure there's a PJ diagram here someplace for this setup.


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[duckdogs]

Never really needed a timer myself, I normally run Beersmith and use it's timer.


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[homebrewdude76]

Still not made much progress on this...
Been trying to solder 2" sanitary fittings. I give up. Looking for a TIG guy now.

My origial plan was to have a 2" fitting on the bottom of the pot.
This was to allow for a full dump cleanout without moving the pot from the stand.
I think the pros and cons on this show I should not do it.
If I have a 2" fitting on the bottom with 45degree elbow for dumping in the bucket.
The pot will never sit flat, unless it it in the special spot with a hole in the stand.
I will have wort sitting in the area during the boil
I will have a 2" sanitary fitting with disconnect on the side to quickly remove the elemtent.
Am I too lazy to tip and clean a 20gal pot???

Think I will just have a 2" sanitary on the side for the elemtent.
Standard spigot/valve in the front with a provision for a thermo port for the PID.
Inside dip tube with screen running on the side.

My worry about cleaning leaf hops might go away when I go to a hop spyder and pellet hops.

 

[homebrewdude76]

I gave up on the custom pots.
Sold all my stainless tanks/kegs and pots.

So now I have cash in hand to buy two pots ready for electric brewing.

Looking for brew pot and HLT.
20gal size
2" triclamp on the sides for electric elements
triclamp on the front for draining

Any thoughts on companies that make these?

 

[FoCobrewguy]

Got mine from Brewers Hardware no complaint Darren does a great job. I have a 20 gallon bk with no tangential inlet. I have it ready for going electric although for now I am using propane outside.

 

[FoCobrewguy]

Here is a picture

View attachment 1424034162710.jpg

 

[homebrewdude76]

I was looking at brewers hardware also. I would still need some custom fittings. I sent them a message.

 

[FoCobrewguy]

The kettles are pretty much all custom you can tell them the size and placement for any ferrule you are going to add.

 

[homebrewdude76]

I am split between brewers hardware and Stout

Stout has the bottom outlet feature that I like.

Not sure how to handle leaf hops in the bottom outlet.
Not sure it would be the best idea.?