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But, I'm assuming the size of a chunk of hop pellet will be insignificant in both weight and volume on our scale as homebrewers....

Have you ever washed yeast? There is actually a significant volume taken up by trub that are not living yeast. However I don't know if it is enough to make a difference in gravity readings anywhere along the fermenting process :drunk:
 
But, I'm assuming the size of a chunk of hop pellet will be insignificant in both weight and volume on our scale as homebrewers....

The chemicals in the hops contribute (AA and iso-AAs for example) to the density of the wort but not the undissolved solid part of the pellet, whether it's 1 oz in 5 gallons or 100 oz in 500 gallons.

I apologize for hijacking this thread. I am a chemist as well as a homebrewer and I hate to see science being misunderstood. :eek:

Cheers!
 
The chemicals in the hops contribute (AA and iso-AAs for example) to the density of the wort but not the undissolved solid part of the pellet, whether it's 1 oz in 5 gallons or 100 oz in 500 gallons.

I apologize for hijacking this thread. I am a chemist as well as a homebrewer and I hate to see science being misunderstood. :eek:

Cheers!

As far as I see it, this is all relevant to figuring out if something in the brewing process causes the alcohol content to be higher than we measure so its not even high jacking!
 
As far as I see it, this is all relevant to figuring out if something in the brewing process causes the alcohol content to be higher than we measure so its not even high jacking!

Good point! :rockin:

One thing that did cross my mind is that hydrometers don't directly measure alcohol content. We are assuming that the difference in specific gravity from pre-fermentation to post is due to alcohol...
 
Good point! :rockin:

One thing that did cross my mind is that hydrometers don't directly measure alcohol content. We are assuming that the difference in specific gravity from pre-fermentation to post is due to alcohol...

Its more we measure the sugar content pre and post fermentation, and assume the yeast have eaten that much and produce the corresponding amount of alcohol. However we don't take into accoung that the homogeneous mixture with alcohol has a lower SG than sugerwater...

I think a vinometer or something like that is the tool to measure alcohol content, but I would be weary of their accuracy
 
This was copied from this link which I posted earlier in the thread, but it looks like it would only affect the abv by a few tenths of a percent.

e.g. OG 1.080 - FG 1.016 = 0.064 (or 64)
64 * .130 = 8.32 <---- what some people use
64 * .131 = 8.38
64 * .132 = 8.45 <---- probably more accurate if you believe what's written below

The rest is someone else's post:

For homebrew purposes you can say OG-FG*0.130 where OG and FG are whole
numbers (ie no decimal point) so if OG is 1040 and FG is 1010 then ABV is
1040-1010*0.130 which gives 3.9%

In reality the 0.130 varies and HMC&E use a figure between 0.125 and 0.135
as follows:

CALCULATION OF ALCOHOLIC STRENGTH

1 If you have no, or minimal, laboratory facilities, you may calculate the
alcoholic strength of your beer by multiplying the number of degrees by
which the beer has attenuated by a factor. In order to ensure that your
calculations are accurate, it is imperative that the OG. is established as
soon as possible after collection and before fermentation commences, which
will normally be within one hour of completion of filling the fermenting
vessel.

2 The present gravity (PG - also known as the specific or final gravity)
should be measured once fermentation is completed. For cask conditioned
beer this will be after secondary fermentation in the casks.

3 The OG and PG of representative samples should be measured using a
suitably calibrated sacharrometer adjusted for the temperature of the
sample.

4 When you have taken your readings, the formula for the calculation is:

(OG - PG) x f = a% ABV

where OG is the original gravity of the beer;

PG is the present gravity of the beer;

a is the beer's alcoholic strength; and

f is the factor connecting the change in gravity to alcoholic strength.

The value of "f " is not constant because the yield of alcohol is not
constant for all fermentations. In lower strength beers, more of the
sugars available for fermentation are consumed in yeast reproduction than
in producing alcohol.

5 The table below produced by the Laboratory of the Government Chemist
shows the changing value "f" depending on the alcoholic strength of the
beer.

(OG - PG) % ABV Factor
Up to 6.9 Up to 0.8 0.125
7.0 - 10.4 0.8 - 1.3 0.126
10.5 - 17.2 1.3 - 2.1 0.127
17.3 - 26.1 2.2 - 3.3 0.128
26.2 - 36.0 3.3 - 4.6 0.129
36.1 - 46.5 4.6 - 6.0 0.130
46.6 - 57.1 6.0 - 7.5 0.131
57.2 - 67.9 7.5 - 9.0 0.132
68.0 - 78.8 9.0 - 10.5 0.133
78.9 - 89.7 10.5- 12.0 0.134
89.8 - 100.7 12.0- 13.6 0.135

The table indicates that for the majority of popular UK beers, the factor
for calculating the estimated strength would lie in the range 0.128 and
0.129. For strong beers (exceeding 6% ABV), the factor would be in the
range of 0.131 - 0.133. Whilst it is important that the correct value for
"f" is used, you should be aware that this table is primarily for your
guidance. Some brewing methods and materials can affect the factor.

--
Andy Davison
[email protected]
 
why (or is it just me) do i get more of a buzz off homebrew than i do off commercial beer of same style and equal abv%.

i just cracked open a scottish ale i did (5.99% abv) drank 2 and im nicely buzzed. feelin good. love the beer.
ive drank plently of commercial beers of 6% and higher and not had a buzz like this off 2 of them.

am i just imagining this because its my brew?

oh well, who cares, my this brew is awesome.....gunna pop open another one and chill on the deck.

cheers
brew on


Had a thought. Do you get more buzzed drinking homebrew out of the bottle or after it is poured in a glass???:mug: Maybe that thin film on the bottom of the bottle is buzzable material.
 
I use the one from cooper's;(OG-FG)/7.46+.5=%ABV. The problem comes in when you realize that every formula gives a different answer. A member on here showed that once a while back. So who's right? how can you say the one you use is better than the one I use? Because someone with greater understanding of math than you said so?
See what I'm getting at? Someone should come up with a better,cheap way to do ir accurately.
 
I dont really care about the intricacies of the formula. The serious math is left at work for me. I usually just round the % up to the nearest 1/4 point anyhow to be conservative to my patrons.
 
I'm still laughing at the density hilarity.

That's like saying canned beer wouldn't get you NEARLY as drunk as kegged beer. Kegged beer gets you drunker because it's in a bigger can.

lulz
 
I'm still laughing at the density hilarity.

That's like saying canned beer wouldn't get you NEARLY as drunk as kegged beer. Kegged beer gets you drunker because it's in a bigger can.

lulz

I think that kegged beer can get you drunker, but its more about the fact that you lose count (unintentionally or on purpose) of the amount of beer you drank. Couple pints here, couple half pint tasters there and pretty soon you're kicking a keg.

When your drinking from the can (or bottle), there is evidence of the crime you've committed (unless you're like me and the bottles get rinsed and put in the 'to be sanitized' box right away).

I swear I don't have a drinking problem, at least that's what I tell the wife. :p
 
Not so hilarious when you consider the fact that most BMC's are 2.8-3.3%. Home brewed ales are about 4.5-6%,significant difference there.
 
Not so hilarious when you consider the fact that most BMC's are 2.8-3.3%. Home brewed ales are about 4.5-6%,significant difference there.

Most BMCs are way more than that. Are you referring to ABW?
 
And then you multiple by 1000
1000/7.69 ~= 130.

I think multiplying a number by 130 is easier than dividing by 0.00769.

I don't think that was his intention. by 7.69 he probably meant along the lines of
example:
OG 1.050, FG 1.01
so 50-10=40
40/7.69=5.2

130 method produces
1.050-1.010=.040
.040*130=5.2

same answers, same amount of work with a calculator if you ask me, the 130 is easier if your just punching the numbers in your head
 
OG 1.050, FG 1.01
so 50-10=40
You are multiplying by 1000!!!!!!
same answers, same amount of work with a calculator if you ask me, the 130 is easier if your just punching the numbers in your head

Multipling a number by 25 is that same thing as multiplying a number by 1000 and then dividing by 40. One of them just requires an extra step! All I am saying is ... you don't need to do the extra step!
 
I remember a list of beers my buddy showed me after a DUI he got once. Bud was higher on the list (by ABV%) then,say millers. Many average BMC's aren't very high.
 
I think it depends on state, "gas station" beer here in MN is 3.2%, if you buy the same beer in the liquor store for the light BMC is around 4.2% and the regular versions are around 5%.
 
I agree that it hits me harder than BMC... I can move a 12er of Miller Light in the afternoon, but 3 glasses of 5.5 homebrew and I'm dancing...
Has anyone experienced this and then tried filtering it ???

I currently have a 3.2% beer on tap... I'll let you know how that works out.
 
I agree that it hits me harder than BMC... I can move a 12er of Miller Light in the afternoon, but 3 glasses of 5.5 homebrew and I'm dancing...
Has anyone experienced this and then tried filtering it ???

I currently have a 3.2% beer on tap... I'll let you know how that works out.

cant wait to hear the results.
 
Initial results are that 3.2% causes no problems... I seem to be a gulper instead of a sipper, after years of BMC conditioning. Working through it with 3-4% HB seems like a good place to start, I'll skip the 7% IPAs for awhile !
 
went to my local brewery pub (berwick brewing company) and sampled his trippel (12% abv).



wow. now thats a wallop.
 
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