Holes in a chest freezer

[Andrwb33]

I just got my hands on a ge 5.0 chest freezer from the depot. Heres my problem...I need to drill a hole in the side of the unit. My faucet tower will be located about 10 ft from the freezer. And the unit itself will be hidden under a counter so holes in the lid are out of the question. A collar cannot be utilized either in order to fit the freezer under the counter.

This may be tough to visualize but this is the only arrangement that works. I am trying to retrofit this into an outdoor kitchen area.

Any advice on running my lines all be appreciated.

 

[jaytizzle]

I don't think it's possible to drill a hole in the side of a chest freezer. That's where the coolant lines run. If you're luck then you can drill a hole in the back or something but I wouldn't count on it.

If you got REALLY creative you might be able to go through the compressor hump and out the area where the compressor is located. That'd be a fun way to do it but would need to be VERY tightly insulated.

 

[tripkings]

You are planning on having 10' of beer line outside the freezer?

 

[Junkster]

If the lid is 1.5-2.0" thick, then I would think there would be enough room to go up and out the end or the back thru the vertical edge of the lid with your lines and if you keep them towards the rear of the lid, there will be minimal movement when the lid is opened. Even a 1" collar would probably provide enough room for the lines if you don't want to try the above method. If the counter is really close, how are you going to open the lid anyway without pulling the keezer out from beneath the countertop? If beer is really important (beer IS REQUIRED!), I would have no problem modifying the countertop - that's why we have power saws, electric demolition hammers, explosives, etc......

 

[bolts]

If the lid is 1.5-2.0" thick, then I would think there would be enough room to go up and out the end or the back thru the vertical edge of the lid with your lines and if you keep them towards the rear of the lid, there will be minimal movement when the lid is opened. Even a 1" collar would probably provide enough room for the lines if you don't want to try the above method. If the counter is really close, how are you going to open the lid anyway without pulling the keezer out from beneath the countertop? If beer is really important (beer IS REQUIRED!), I would have no problem modifying the countertop - that's why we have power saws, electric demolition hammers, explosives, etc......

+1

I'd avoid the sides, and go straight up through the top, or if you want to get fancy, at an angle that would end up "out the back" but through the lid. The lid on my was really easy to take apart so it should actually be pretty easy to do. Then you need to deal with 10' of line that isn't cooled.

 

[mtnrider]

My faucet tower will be located about 10 ft from the freezer.

Tripkings has a point to ponder:

Have you thought about the challenge you may have balancing lines and managing foam with that length of run? Ten feet of beer line plus your taps and riser will have a fair amount of warm beer that will come out as foam on your first pours unless you're planning on cooling your lines.

I've always been of the same philosophy as junkster....nothing a sawzall can't remedy...

 

[day_trippr]

Not only the cold side (evap) lines run inside the side walls, but the warm side lines (condenser) also run there on most modern-era chest freezers, so you have a double chance of hearing the dreaded "SSSSSSSSSS" if you dare drill through the side walls.

The back edge of the lid will work, I run my gas lines, thermo sensor and power to my internal fans through the back edge of the lid on my keezer (no collar, I have a 6 faucet tower on top). Just make the holes big enough to put rubber grommets in them so you don't gouge the lines...

Cheers!

 

[Andrwb33]

Thanks for the help. I plan on making the lid part of the counter, but do to the only feasible location for the freezer the tower just can't be placed there without being in an awkward spot. dam retro fits.

As for the length of the lines I'm going to try an insulation wrap at first but if that doesn't work I will concoct some sort of cooling line. I will cross that bridge when I get to it.

I like the back of the lid idea though. i will take it apart and see what I can do.

More ideas are welcome especially if anyone has done this.

I will post pics as progress is made.
Thanks!