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Hobart Boil Kettle

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Yeah but a standard 120v outlet is probably 20A max. In which case I'm topping out running the element the pumps and pids, or am I wrong.
 
Yeah but a standard 120v outlet is probably 20A max. In which case I'm topping out running the element the pumps and pids, or am I wrong.

standard outlet is 15a max... 20a 120v outlets are different with the one horizonatal blade... you will want to use a 20a gfci kitchen outlet anyway (like this http://www.grainger.com/product/40L...2557!&ef_id=Vo7tIAAAAK2KTzAv:20160114134316:s ).
If you do there will be no problems powering the element,pid indicators and multiple pumps off of a single 24v powersupply inside your panel... everything but the element will take 2amps of you 120v power max and more like 1 amp in reality.. (a 7a 24v powersupply takes less than 1 amp at 120 ac is I remember right.) the pid doesnt even draw a quarter of an amp...

just remeber to buy a 120v 20a plug for your control panel so you arent tempted to plug into a 15a outlet.

Most people are using 240v for their homebrewing setups or 2 separate 120v 20a outlets on separate circuits for multiple 120v elements, but then again most are brewing more than 1 case at a time so..
 
Or downsize your element to 1500 watts and you can use any standard household outlet. It'll still be fine for 3 gallon batches.

True,
Still wise to use a GFCI outlet though.
I was under the impression he was using a 3 gallon coffee maker with the coffee maker element built in
 
In thinking about it, I could go with three 500w cartridge heaters, wired in parallel. That out to do it.
 
If only it were that easy. I wanted to use those round bottom Hobart bowls for my vessels. Its why I was going for a more compact element shape, coils, spirals etc
 
Think this would be bendable? Maybe a loop if not a coil?

I have no idea. Never bent one before. I see people bend those wavy elements all the time. Maybe you could get one of those 240v, 5500 watt wavy elements, which will put out 1375 watts at 120v, and bend it to the shape you want/need.
 
I think I'll have to give up the idea of a specialized element shape. I did find a more conventional shape that should fit far down enough into the kettle.

Extra Low-Watt Density; model # 120-1500-ELD
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/water-heater-element-2853.jpg

I've seen people in the forums give a slight bend to these so they can fit two in a kettle. I might just do a slight downward bend so that it doesn't obtrusively poke up from the curve of the kettle, which looks like this... http://www.webstaurantstore.com/hob...8g--HzjjsqbPgKaJ61AouvpP7TgFDXbs7VhoCFi_w_wcB
 
Guys, so I've been doing more thinking and am debating between two options. I'd appreciate your input to either trash one or both ideas.

Idea #1: @ $45 use this McMaster element http://www.mcmaster.com/#3540k43/=112epf4
it's 1500 watt so it suits my needs, incoloy and has a bend radius of about 15/16 inch. It should be relatively easy to make a hoop like the BoilCoil or a spiral in the hobart kettles.

Idea #2: Use a band heater clamped to the outside of the kettle toward the bottom, just before it curves. Something like this from BrewHaus http://www.brewhaus.com/1500W-Band-Heater-for-Premium-Kettle-Moonshine-Still.aspx This particular one has too large a diameter, I need a band heater suitable for 12.5 inch diameter. I've found a company called OEM Heaters that has an online customizer that spits out an estimated quote, it'd cost me about $75 for a 120V 1500W band heater with a 12.5 inch diameter.

So, I ask for your highly regarded advice; #1: more conventional immersion element in the kettle bent to shape at home -OR- #2: a sized band heater clamped to the exterior of the kettle so that there is less clutter in the kettle.
 
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