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Kironosaurus

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Sep 26, 2011
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So I am new to high gravity brewing. I plan on making a Belgian Strong Ale but am looking for some tips on brewing a high gravity beer.

6.5 Lbs Pilsen Light LME
3.3 Lbs Bavarian Wheat LME
1 Lb Light Belgian Candi Sugar
1 Lb Honey Malt
1.5 Oz Bittering Hops (I forgot which kind I bought)
1 Oz Aroma/Flavoring hops (Once again, I forgot which variety I bought)
WYeast 3942 Belgian Wheat

I am going to make a yeast starter to get those buggers going, but I am wondering if there are any other tips you guys have regarding high gravity brewing that I wouldn't have done in a standard gravity brew. I plan to rack to a secondary and age for a few months before bottling as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
The biggest thing is probably pitching rate (definitely make a starter...2L at least) and fermentation temp (make sure the wort temp is correct and not just the ambient temp...wort temp can be 10 degrees higher than ambient temp during peak fermentation).
 
I think the 1lb of honey malt is a touch much. They say more than half a pound gets floraly,rather than honey flavored.
 
Ok, thanks for the help guys. If I used one of those stick on thermometers, I should be able to check the wort temp, correct?

Oh and I'll adjust the recipe accordingly unionrdr, thanks.
 
When we make port wine which pushes the yeast to its abv limit, we add all of the additional sugar to a small amount of boiling water and add it in incraments when fermentation starts to slow down. I've read up before and it seems to be recommended, but I've done it without too, and that also came up fine...luck of the draw I guess, but just an idea.
 
+1 on adding the sugar after fermentation slows. Just boil it up with just enough water to make a syrup, cool, and add to the fermenter. I usually add it after3-4 days. That way the yeast can eat the sugars in the wort before they get desert (the sugar).

I agree about cutting the honey malt back.

I also would pick a more appropriate yeast.. 1388, 3787, 3522, 1762. would give you a more true to style Belgian. Look on thw Wyeast wesite and read the descriptions for the Belgian yeasts.
 
I just brewed a 1.075 belgian and it came out to 1.010. I wouldnt waste money on the candi sugar, just use table sugar. Add the sugar late if you want, but I added it at 15 min left in the boil. Ill third the honey malt, sounds like a lot. I used WLP500, smell and hydro samples were very belgian. Only bottled yesterday, so cant comment too much on the taste.
 
+1 on adding the sugar after fermentation slows. Just boil it up with just enough water to make a syrup, cool, and add to the fermenter. I usually add it after3-4 days. That way the yeast can eat the sugars in the wort before they get desert (the sugar).

How do I mix the syrup into the fermenter without aerating it?

Also nofootbreak, any off flavors when using table sugar instead of candi sugar?
 
No, and many brewers use table sugar in place of candi sugar. There are some threads on here that explain how they are essentially the same thing, and an episode of brewstrong on belgian goldens said the same thing. Samples I took tasted great. If you go too far over 10% of fermentables, you may get a cider like taste, but thats probably true with any kind of sugar...
 
How do I mix the syrup into the fermenter without aerating it?

Also nofootbreak, any off flavors when using table sugar instead of candi sugar?

carefully pour it in - may be harder to do in a carboy - not too difficult with a bucket

also not mentioned is the necessity of lots of oxygen in the early stages of yeast growth

pure o2 with diffusion stone would be ideal right before you pitch and perhaps 12 hours or so after you pitch
 
I think the 1lb of honey malt is a touch much. They say more than half a pound gets floraly,rather than honey flavored.
I'v used up to 2lbs so far in 5g batches and i havn't noticed anything floral. Im probably gonna try a 50% honey malt batch in the near future for giggles.
 
also not mentioned is the necessity of lots of oxygen in the early stages of yeast growth

pure o2 with diffusion stone would be ideal right before you pitch and perhaps 12 hours or so after you pitch

I'll be sure to get a diffusion stone. I had been considering that for some time as it is. Thanks everyone.

Also, I do partial boils. I have read very conflicting threads on this site saying that wort gravity does affect hop utilization, and others say it doesn't. Do I have much to worry about in that regard?
 
If you have some yeast nutrient, I'd advise adding per instructions in the last 10-15 minutes of the boil. Med-Big starter. Plenty of O2. I've added the sugar near the end of the boil and did not have any attenuation problems. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to stage the additions during early fermentation though, just an added risk of opening the primary up.

WY 1388 is the Duvel yeast, or at least very similar from what I've read. Let us know how it turns out. After I work on a Dubbel this winter, a Golden Strong or Dark Strong is next Beligan on my list.
 
I'll be sure to get a diffusion stone. I had been considering that for some time as it is. Thanks everyone.

Also, I do partial boils. I have read very conflicting threads on this site saying that wort gravity does affect hop utilization, and others say it doesn't. Do I have much to worry about in that regard?

you will reach a threshold on how many IBU's you can get in there

there's a current thread discussing it here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/do-full-boils-make-much-difference-over-partial-boils-271335/
 

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