Help with Ale recipe

[Wavery]

I'm trying for a "British Ale"......Here is what I have:

*3# Briess Sparkling Amber DME
*2# Barley Malt Extract "Gold" LME (from Midwest supplies)..... not sure that I should use this or something else.
*1oz UK Golding (Alpha: 4.8%) Hop pellets.
*11g Windsor British Style yeast (Rehydrate before use??)

Can someone suggest a recipe for this?

I've also never rehydrated yeast before. I've only used dry yeast. What is the best way to hydrate this yeast?

I'm really green at this and I'm trying to move away from the Coopers kits slowly.

................edit...............
I found this on hydrating the yeast:
** Sprinkle the yeast on the surface of 10 times its weight of clean, sterilized (boiled) water at 30–35°C.
Do not use wort, or distilled or reverse osmosis water, as loss in viability will result. DO NOT STIR.
Leave undisturbed for 15 minutes, then stir to suspend the yeast completely, and leave it for 5 more
minutes at 30–35°C. Then adjust temperature to that of the wort and inoculate without delay.
**

My only remaining question (on hydration) is, how much water should I use? OH YA....... should I cover it while it is sitting for 15 minutes?

---------------------------

 

[Wavery]

Shameless bump.......

 

[Wavery]

OK..... I'm talking to myself here....

I did a little reading and I now realize that I need 6# of DME for 5G of wort....:cross:......

That means another trip to my LHBS..... so what DME (or LME) should I add to my 3# of Briess Sparkling Amber DME to come up with a good British Ale?

One more question (ya right)... Should I add the DME to the boiling water while it's still on the burner or should I take it off the burner, stir in the DME and put it back on the boil (or can I just dump the DME in warm water before the boil?) and for how long?

Maybe I should have stuck to the Coopers kits for awhile longer

I'm just trying to break away and experiment.

 

[Jordancwilk]

Hi Wavery, I'm no expert on recipes so I'll leave that suggestion for another reader. As far as adding the extract during the boil, it's ALWAYS good practice to take your wort off of the burner and stir in the extract to make sure it doesn't scald on the bottom.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

There's a lot of room for recipes for what you've got. When I do extract, I like using 7 - 7.5 lbs. of LME and maybe .5 - 1 lb. DME if I want the O.G. higher.

As far as the re-hydrating the yeast goes. Use about a half cup and let it sit uncovered.

To get away from the kits, I would suggest searching the recipes here on HBT or getting a book. I love "Clone Brews" a collection of 200 really good beers and great information in there.

 

[dkevinb]

Using a recipe calculator will help a lot. There are a bunch of good ones. I use the freebie at Brewer's Friend:

http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/

"British Ale" covers a lot of territory - Milds, bitters of varying strength, IPA's, browns, etc. Is there a commercial British ale you like?

I've found that reading other people's recipes is a huge help in formulating my own. If I were you I'd browse through the recipe section here and see if there's something that strikes your fancy.

The way I rehydrate yeast is to boil 110 ml (half a cup) of water for a couple of minutes to sterilize it. I use a glass measuring cup in the microwave. Then I cover it with aluminum foil and let it cool to 80-85F (that's what the Fermantis yeast packets say). Be sure to sanitize the cup, a pair of scissors, the yeast packet itself, a thermometer and a spoon. When the water is at the correct temperature sprinkle the yeast evenly on top of the water (don't stir), cover with the foil, wait 15-30 minutes, stir and cover, wait another 5-15 minutes, stir and pitch. I've never bothered trying to adjust the temperature. I chill the wort to around 65-68F. The yeast will be roughly that temperature after all that waiting.

 

[Wavery]

Using a recipe calculator will help a lot. There are a bunch of good ones. I use the freebie at Brewer's Friend:

http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/

"British Ale" covers a lot of territory - Milds, bitters of varying strength, IPA's, browns, etc. Is there a commercial British ale you like?

I've found that reading other people's recipes is a huge help in formulating my own. If I were you I'd browse through the recipe section here and see if there's something that strikes your fancy.

The way I rehydrate yeast is to boil 110 ml (half a cup) of water for a couple of minutes to sterilize it. I use a glass measuring cup in the microwave. Then I cover it with aluminum foil and let it cool to 80-85F (that's what the Fermantis yeast packets say). Be sure to sanitize the cup, a pair of scissors, the yeast packet itself, a thermometer and a spoon. When the water is at the correct temperature sprinkle the yeast evenly on top of the water (don't stir), cover with the foil, wait 15-30 minutes, stir and cover, wait another 5-15 minutes, stir and pitch. I've never bothered trying to adjust the temperature. I chill the wort to around 65-68F. The yeast will be roughly that temperature after all that waiting.

Thanks...... that was VERY helpful. That calculator is really cool.

I think I'll go back to my LHBS and pick up 3.3# of light LME......

Another question....... Is it important to boil for 60 minutes?

I have one of those strainer mesh-tubes (I know to sanitize ) Do I just put the pellets in the tube and let them soak in the boiling wort for the last 20 minutes?

 

[aprichman]

Thanks...... that was VERY helpful. That calculator is really cool.

I think I'll go back to my LHBS and pick up 3.3# of light LME......

Another question....... Is it important to boil for 60 minutes?

I have one of those strainer mesh-tubes (I know to sanitize ) Do I just put the pellets in the tube and let them soak in the boiling wort for the last 20 minutes?

Boiling serves two main purposes for extract brewing. The first is sterilization and the second is infusing the hops. If you are only planning on adding the hops for 20 minutes then that is how long you should boil for. It is worth mentioning that 20 minutes of 1oz UK Golding is not going to give you very much bittering. I wouldn't be surprised if the recipe was intended for 1oz UK Goldings for a full 60 minutes.

Cheers

 

[Wavery]

Boiling serves two main purposes for extract brewing. The first is sterilization and the second is infusing the hops. If you are only planning on adding the hops for 20 minutes then that is how long you should boil for. It is worth mentioning that 20 minutes of 1oz UK Golding is not going to give you very much bittering. I wouldn't be surprised if the recipe was intended for 1oz UK Goldings for a full 60 minutes.

Cheers

OK...... I got it (I think)..... Would you suggest an additional hops to add for flavoring that I might add later in the boil?

I really am going to get a book but I have much more success with reading a book if I have some experience to associate with what I'm reading. I have a traumatic brain disorder and it is hard for me to sit down with a book and assimulate what I am reading without having familiar references to fall back on.

 

[kh54s10]

I prefer all Light DME. LME, for me is a PITA. It is too easy to scorch it and it almost always makes the beer darker than I want it to be.

I add about 1/3 at the beginning of the boil. Adding the rest in the last 15 minutes. I add flavor and color by steeping specialty grains for 20 minutes to 1/2 hour at about 158 degrees. By using light DME for the base and using specialty grains for the color and flavor I feel I have more control of the outcome rather that relying on whatever the malt maker used to produce the different varieties of malt extracts. That said, there are wheat and Maris Otter extracts, etc. that are very good options.

For my hops I clip a 5 gallon paint strainer bag to the lip of the kettle. Open and add the appropriate amount of hops at the indicated time.

When rehydrating, cover the cup loosely with a sanitized piece of aluminum foil. Leaving it out in the open increases the chances of infection.

 

[kh54s10]

A source of inspiration that I use it Northern Brewer's website. Look at their ingredient kits. Their extract kits: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/recipe-kits/extract-kits

Pick a beer that looks interesting. Under the description there are some tabs. Click on the additional information tab. Then recipe and instructions "click here"

That will bring up the recipe and instructions for making the beer. The only thing I really do differently is to ferment in primary only for a longer length of time. (no secondary in most cases) then bottle or keg. 3 weeks at 70 degrees for bottle conditioning.

Keep looking on this site and most all of your questions will quickly be answered. If you don't find an answer by search, just ask.

 

[Wavery]

OK...... can someone tell me if this makes sense.

(highlighted in RED is what I have now)
(highlighted in RED is what I am thinking of buying)



Method: Extract
Boil Time: 45 min
Batch Size: 6 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 3 gallons

Fermentables
Amount Fermentable
3 lb Dry Malt Extract - Amber
3 lb Dry Malt Extract - Light 42
2 lb Liquid Malt Extract - Dark 25% (only because I have it and want to use it up)
8 lb Total

Hops
Amount Variety Type AA Use Time IBU
1 oz UK golding Pellet 4.8 Boil 45 min 8.34
1 oz Fuggles Pellet 4.5 Boil 20 min 4.69

Yeast
Danstar - Windsor Ale Yeast
Attenuation (avg):
72%
Flocculation: (HMMMMM!!!! I didn't know THAT was in the recipe)
Medium
Optimum Temp:
64 - 70 °F
Starter:
No
Fermentation Temp:
68 °F

 

[Wavery]

OK...... can someone tell me if this makes sense.

(highlighted in RED is what I have now)
(highlighted in RED is what I am thinking of buying)



Method: Extract
Boil Time: 45 min
Batch Size: 6 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 3 gallons

Fermentables
Amount Fermentable
3 lb Dry Malt Extract - Amber
3 lb Dry Malt Extract - Light 42
2 lb Liquid Malt Extract - Dark 25% (only because I have it and want to use it up)
8 lb Total

Hops
Amount Variety Type AA Use Time IBU
1 oz UK golding Pellet 4.8 Boil 45 min 8.34
1 oz Fuggles Pellet 4.5 Boil 20 min 4.69

Yeast
Danstar - Windsor Ale Yeast
Attenuation (avg):
72%
Flocculation: (HMMMMM!!!! I didn't know THAT was in the recipe)
Medium
Optimum Temp:
64 - 70 °F
Starter:
No
Fermentation Temp:
68 °F

I hope that someone has some suggestions on this before I head out to my LHBS

 

[Wavery]

OK...... gave up on this one...... I'm going to try a German Pillsner.

The guy at my LHBS helped me with the ingredients and recipe...... How does this sound?????:

----------------------------------------------------
Fermentables
3 lb Dry Malt Extract - Pilsen Boil 60 min
3 lb Dry Malt Extract - Pilsen Boil 15 min
1 lb Liquid Malt Extract - Dark (I added this just because I have it)
7 lb Total

Hops
0.5 oz Perle Pellet 9.7% Boil-60 min
1.0 oz Tettnang 3.9% Boil-15 min

Yeast
Fermentis / Safale - Saflager - German Lager Yeast S-23
I pitched it @ 65*

OG was 1.42
----------------------------------------------------
I've gotta say...... this was a real PITA compared to the Coopers kits. I sure hope that it gets easier with time. :cross:
-

 

[rodwha]

A lager needs to be fermented much colder than 65*. More like high 40's to mid 50's or so.

Wanting to brew a British beer you'll get a better beer by using British malts. MoreBeer sells Maris Otter LME now, but someone else carries it too.

With the extracts you have I'd opt to brew something American with it such as an amber.

I'm also for steeping grains for color and flavor and using light extracts. Steeping is pretty easy.

Oh, and if your fermentor holds 6 gals you'll want to fill it to maybe 5 gals as it needs room for the krausen (maybe 2" or so at the least).

 

[Wavery]

A lager needs to be fermented much colder than 65*. More like high 40's to mid 50's or so.

Wanting to brew a British beer you'll get a better beer by using British malts. MoreBeer sells Maris Otter LME now, but someone else carries it too.

With the extracts you have I'd opt to brew something American with it such as an amber.

I'm also for steeping grains for color and flavor and using light extracts. Steeping is pretty easy.

Oh, and if your fermentor holds 6 gals you'll want to fill it to maybe 5 gals as it needs room for the krausen (maybe 2" or so at the least).

I asked the guy at my LHBS about that lager yeast. He told me to just keep it between 50F-65F (the thermometer on the side of the fermenter reads 60F right now.. I'm not going to lager this beer. It's intended to be a pilsner and this is what he recommended.

He recommended 2 weeks in the fermenter and 2 weeks conditioning in the bottle before refrigerating and drinking.

I guess we'll see what it tastes like in about a month. Meanwhile, I think my next brew will be another Coopers kit. I've got 2 fermenters going now (the other one is a stout with lager yeast). I have a "Coopers European Lager" conditioning in a cold closet now too.

I have a 3rd fermenter and I'm thinking of doing the Coopers Australian Draught but instead of using their "Brew Enhancer" I think I'll use 3# of DME. Any suggestions?

 

[Wavery]

A lager needs to be fermented much colder than 65*. More like high 40's to mid 50's or so.

Wanting to brew a British beer you'll get a better beer by using British malts. MoreBeer sells Maris Otter LME now, but someone else carries it too.

With the extracts you have I'd opt to brew something American with it such as an amber.

I'm also for steeping grains for color and flavor and using light extracts. Steeping is pretty easy.

Oh, and if your fermentor holds 6 gals you'll want to fill it to maybe 5 gals as it needs room for the krausen (maybe 2" or so at the least).

BTW...... I took your advice and put the fermenter in an ice bath. It's down to 50F now and I'll leave it there for 2 weeks. I have 3 of the Coopers Fermenters. They hold about 7.5G. They are designed for a 6G brew.

 

[rodwha]

This is what Fermentis states for that yeast:
"9-22°C (48.2-71.6°F) ideally 12-15°C (53.6-59°F)"

http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFG_S23.pdf

As you see the ideal temp is in the mid to upper 50's. I'm guessing that to ferment it in the 60's or low 70's creates flavors that may not be appreciated in many styles. But I'm not too familiar with lager yeasts other than they require lower temps and longer fermentation periods.

And speaking of which the advice to ferment 2 weeks and condition for 2 more doesn't sound like good advice, especially for lager yeasts. The general rule of thumb, though it depends on the complexity, style, and ABV, an ale is given 3 weeks to ferment, 3 weeks to condition, and 3 days or more in the fridge to carbonate.

There are a few extra processes in lagers which begin after the (typically) longer fermentation period, which is to warm it up (60-70's?) called a diacetyl rest followed by the layering period (mid 30's?). I'm not certain but I don't believe it's necessary for every lager, but it's quite common from what I understand.

I'm all for using DME in place of sugars. 3 lbs seems more than what you'd be replacing, but I'm not familiar with that kit.

 

[Wavery]

I made a new thread.