Help me fix my snowblower so I can RAHAHB

[CodeSection]

Lesson learned. Now I just need to get it started before the 18-24in they’re calling for through Tuesday lol

Still no luck. Changed fuel, spark plug, cleaned carborator and changed / topped up oil.

Fuel is making it into the carborator but I can keep combustion. I Have a feeling that it’s the throttle and it’s not opening fully. My pops is stopping over tonight and he bet me dinner and beer that he can get it going. We will see

As Paul Harvey would say "now for the rest of the story".....what happened to the snow? Was it that high? Were you shoveling it? Did you hire someone?

 

[Dgallo]

As Paul Harvey would say "now for the rest of the story".....what happened to the snow? Was it that high? Were you shoveling it? Did you hire someone?

I shoveled it. We got 21 inches in total. A neighbor was nice enough to help me out when he saw me and hit the bottom which was nice since it was so wet and heavy

 

[rnorman57]

And yes, make sure there's oil in the crankcase. After you get it running well, change the oil so you know the last time it was changed

^^^ This... Especially if you have been flooding the engine without running

 

[Dgallo]

^^^ This... Especially if you have been flooding the engine without running

I don’t think any gas has been getting it, spark plug is good and working and it still not starting

 

[rkhanso]

3 things are needed. Spark, fuel, compression (assuming the timing is correct, which it should be)

You need to find out which one is missing, but it seems like you already have.....fuel.
You don't simply have a fuel shutoff valve that's still shut off, do you?

If, after trying to start the snowblower (turning on the choke to full on/closed, throttle to full on, pumping the primer until gas comes out the carburetor) and it still doesn't start - take out the spark plug to see if it's wet. If not, there's a fuel problem. If it's dry, spray some starting fluid or pour some gas in the hole before putting the spark plug back in tight. See if it will start and run for a second or two. If it does, you've determined that there's a fuel problem. As previously mentioned by others, buying a new carburetor is the easy fix for this. They are pretty cheap also.

If it still won't fire after giving it some fuel directly, you have other problems.

If the spark plug is wet, but it didn't start, check the spark plug for spark. Remove it, lay it on its side on the engine (still connected to the spark plug wire) and check if there's a spark at the tip. You need to make sure it has good contact with the side/threads of the spark plug and the engine. If no spark, try a new spark plug. It can be most any spark plug you have lying around. If still no spark, you have a problem with the ignition system. Snowblowers often have a key (might be just a plastic key) that when pulled, grounds out the ignition system so it won't run. This is an area I'd check to see if something came disconnected or rusted off or bent or otherwise messed up.

When pulling the rope to start the engine (with the spark plug in and tight), there should be resistance when you pull it over. If there's little to none, you have a compression problem.

 

[SEndorf]

Now is not a good time to buy a snow blower but.....
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Two-stage-...ent-Outdoors/4294414333?refinement=4294512670

Cant go wrong with a Husky - Varna..

 

[Dgallo]

So, spark plug is dry so fuel is not getting from the carburetor to the plug. I’m looking to buy a replacement. It’s a Craftmans sb410 208cc 24 in snowblower. If someone has the time and are willing, I’d greatly appreciate if someone could confirm this is the one I should buy.
https://www.amazon.com/951-10974A-C...argid=aud-801381245258:pla-358439837900&psc=1

 

[passedpawn]

New carb is best option but you could also remove the screw that has the main jet and clean out the hole with a piece of wire. That is usually the problem with these ridiculously lean carbs.

The carb passages need to be cleaned out completely or it's never going to run. I know that sounds intimidating but it's easier than it sounds, but it does have to come all apart.

I've taken apart / soaked / sweat over carbs in the past. I'm a fan of doing it as an exercise if you have nothing else going on in your life. I'd rather spend a few bucks and get on with my outdoor chores.

So, spark plug is dry so fuel is not getting from the carburetor to the plug. I’m looking to buy a replacement. It’s a Craftmans sb410 208cc 24 in snowblower. If someone has the time and are willing, I’d greatly appreciate if someone could confirm this is the one I should buy.
https://www.amazon.com/951-10974A-C...argid=aud-801381245258:pla-358439837900&psc=1

Take off (2 bolts) and just have a look. Does the bolt pattern match. If so, buy it.

 

[passedpawn]

What's your model number?

 

[day_trippr]

Looking at the manual for that machine
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/5vpw4hnie0-000247/craftsman-247889571-gas-snowblower

Page 33 shows the full carb assembly as part number 951-10974A which appears to be an MTD part.

Full kit here:

https://www.amazon.com/Yermax-951-1..._1_4?keywords=951-10974&qid=1575685621&sr=8-4

Cheers!

[edit/ps] Normally I would start with the engine manufacturer plate data as often the manuals are on the generic side while the plate data will include the short block part number plus the options code. Also, I don't see any fuel shutoff valve on that unit...

 

[Dgallo]

Looking at the manual for that machine
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/5vpw4hnie0-000247/craftsman-247889571-gas-snowblower

Page 33 shows the full carb assembly as part number 951-10974A which appears to be an MTD part.

Full kit here:

https://www.amazon.com/Yermax-951-1..._1_4?keywords=951-10974&qid=1575685621&sr=8-4

Cheers!

Greatly appreciate it brother. pm me your address. I want to send you a few beers after the holidays when they’re brewed and ready.

 

[bracconiere]

i fail to see how this is in general homebrew forum....snow blowing should be in brew science shouldn't it? lol

 

[day_trippr]

Wait 'til you get her running again first

On a totally unrelated note...neighbors across the road had left a Jeep Cherokee stuffed in the snow for the last few days and tonight they tried to get it running. I'm listening from probably 200 yards away to them trying to start it, it sounded like the timing was way the hell off.

Then, when they finally got started, it sounded like it was running on half the cylinders and was cycling between stalling and over-revving every two seconds. Sounded like it was about to throw a rod - I mean some seriously wrong machinery right at the breaking point, and sure enough when they tried to back the thing out of the snow there was a huge noise then dead silence. Then I heard them spin the starter and there was zero noise save for the starter motor. I wager the crank went to Jeep Heaven.

No reflection on your snowblower, of course

Cheers!

 

[malter]

Skip the starting fluid. As an experienced (ASE Master Certified) auto technician, who cut his teeth in my fathers lawn and garden/ snowmobile dealership, I can testify to the damaging effects of either. It can be explosive if used improperly, even to the point of blowing large diesel engines apart, and when used properly, causes excessive premature wear on pistons and rings, causing very expensive repairs. Instead use a spray carb cleaner as a starting fluid.

Open the choke, if so equipped, spray a heavy dose of carb and choke cleaner in the opening of the carb, close the choke and let it set for a minute or so. Then try and start with the throttle fully open. The carb cleaner is flammable enough to start the engine, loosens minor gunk in the passages, and is often all that is needed to get you up and running. If it starts, ad a dose of cleaner to the fuel tank as well. Fuel stabilizer's like Stabil work great at keeping your equipment from becoming gummed up, but don't help once they are. Castle has a product that works very well for both stabilizing e10 fuel, and cleaning gummed carbs. It's called Highway 95. Give it a try if you can get your hands on it.

Thanks for the inspiration/suggestion! This worked great, and my snowblower is running like a top now. I appreciate the advice.

Also, FWIW, I followed up with my "lawnmower" cream ale. Seemed appropriate!

M

 

[Dgallo]

New carburetor came in and I’m attempting to fix it. Everything lines up perfectly except one part, the choke system which is also what was the problem all along. The original choke opened and closed using a plastic post and socket set up(not sure if that’s the right terminology) where a post went into a sort of socket and when the knob turned the post, it would rotate the gear to open and close the choke, all of which was made of plastic and it was broken. The new carburetor choke system is brass and looks as though a lever or wire would connect to it to rotate the gear. Does this mean it’s not compatible? It’s frustrated because it states that it is compatible with my model number.

 

[passedpawn]

New carburetor came in and I’m attempting to fix it. Everything lines up perfectly except one part, the choke system which is also what was the problem all along. The original choke opened and closed using a plastic post and socket set up(not sure if that’s the right terminology) where a post went into a sort of socket and when the knob turned the post, it would rotate the gear to open and close the choke, all of which was made of plastic and it was broken. The new carburetor choke system is brass and looks as though a lever or wire would connect to it to rotate the gear. Does this mean it’s not compatible? It’s frustrated because it states that it is compatible with my model number.

Sounds like you're describing the throttle lever, not the choke. I assume your choke goes up through the carb cover and to a plastic knob on the top.

I see the choke that was linked on amazon above. Can you take a pic and post of your old carb? Also, of your whole machine?

 

[Kirkwooder]

Thanks for the inspiration/suggestion! This worked great, and my snowblower is running like a top now. I appreciate the advice.

Also, FWIW, I followed up with my "lawnmower" cream ale. Seemed appropriate!

M

Glad I could be of some assistance!

 

[Dgallo]

Snowblower official fixed last night. Had a difficult time getting the correct carborator for the machine, my blower was the first gen that was made by craftsman after they were solely acquired by Lowe’s. They made the same machine a year prior when the rights were owned by ace, so many of the part companies didn’t realize that craftsman’s changed the choke linkage assembly on the machine (made it plastic to save some $). Had the Buy it from craftsman’s directly at $65 but at the end of the day it’s fixed

 

[passedpawn]

Snowblower official fixed last night. Had a difficult time getting the correct carborator for the machine, my blower was the first gen that was made by craftsman after they were solely acquired by Lowe’s. They made the same machine a year prior when the rights were owned by ace, so many of the part companies didn’t realize that craftsman’s changed the choke linkage assembly on the machine (made it plastic to save some $). Had the Buy it from craftsman’s directly at $65 but at the end of the day it’s fixed

Good job! This time was a total hassle finding correct carb and replacing. Next time it'll be a snap

Make sure to use Sta-bil (or similar) in your gas - it'll save your carb during the off season. Might consider finding straight gas also.

 

[The_Bishop]

Or, even easier and cheaper: Drain the fuel out of it completely before storing it for the season.

 

[passedpawn]

Or, even easier and cheaper: Drain the fuel out of it completely before storing it for the season.

Can you drain the carburetor? Even running it until it stops, it's questionable - I really don't know.

When the fuel left in the tiny orifices of the carburetor break down after 6 months and turn into varnish, the carb is cooked. I think this breakdown is what the additives prevent. For certain, it's worked well for me.

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, a loooong time ago I used to drain and run dry all my gas powered equipment for off-season storage based on the conventional wisdom on such matters. Then I started having issues with gaskets shrinking. So I started leaving the gas in over the off-season, but I also started using Sea Foam to treat the fuel. Haven't had any issues leaving the gas in since so I'm still doing this...

Cheers!

 

[rnorman57]

I started using ethanol free fuel in all small engines a couple years ago and stopped having carb issues.

 

[The_Bishop]

Can you drain the carburetor? Even running it until it stops, it's questionable - I really don't know.

When the fuel left in the tiny orifices of the carburetor break down after 6 months and turn into varnish, the carb is cooked. I think this breakdown is what the additives prevent. For certain, it's worked well for me.

Most snowblowers these days don't have fuel petcocks. But even if they did it's 99% certain that there's a carburetor bowl drain plug that can be removed to drain both the carburetor and the fuel tank. Once it's done dripping, replace the plug. Start it up and that will remove the last of the fuel from the carburetor.

 

[Metalheadfrommars]

We used to use guitar strings to clean the jets

 

[CodeSection]

I'm here in AZ where it is a little warmer. Just taken minutes ago, below is what our CO home looks like with another storm starting and lasting for a couple of days. I'm glad we have a snowblower!