Help me before I break my malt mill

[mdarby]

I bought a non-adjustable JSP malt mill off of eBay awhile back. The first thing I noticed was that both rollers have a gasket around them. It doesn't change the (0.05) spacing, and I assume it's only to engage the passive roller. I've mechanized the mill with a 10A drill which powers it nicely. I've tried removing the gaskets and the grain just rolls like a convenient store hot dog on the rollers.

The trouble is that the gaskets keep rolling off to the ends of the rollers when I mill. It will work for a pound or two, but then I get to disassemble the mill and start all over. Five pounds has taken them thirty minutes.

Here are some pictures:
Gasket on the passive roller:
http://skitch.com/matt-darby/dfh64/img-1544

Gasket off the roller:
http://skitch.com/matt-darby/dfh6q/img-1545

What am I doing wrong? Help me save a $130 investment from going into the pond out back!

 

[ArcaneXor]

Try using it without the gasket, add just a pound or so of grain, start the drill and poke the passive roller on the gap side with something like the handle of a paintbrush or the handle of a screwdriver. That should be enough to get it rolling, and the grain will keep it going. Then just add the rest of your grain.

(this is how the mill at the LHBS works)

 

[mdarby]

Gave that a whirl with not much luck. I emailed Jack of JSP and hopefully he has some ideas.

 

[jpc]

It's been YEARS since I bought my MaltMill, but IIRC the o-ring is not necessary. It is there to spin the passive roller during initial testing, but the malt being drawn between the rollers should cause the passive roller to spin.

I've run over 400 pounds of grain through mine, and strangely enough the o-ring is still there.

 

[mdarby]

Perhaps something is wrong with my mill. I know that I'm not alone as I've seen several other people with the same issue in various message boards.

The driven roller spins, the grain rolls, and the passive roller doesn't flinch. I have a 0.05" gap (checked with a feeler gauge). I've cleaned, lubricated, etc. I don't know what could be wrong with it.

I'm happy that your mill works. Want to trade?

 

[mdarby]

Here's a video of the mill in action:

 

[mdarby]

Perhaps the issue is that I have the "old style" knurled rollers?

http://www.craftkb.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/brewing/6969/JSP-MaltMill-O-Ring

My rollers have long, unbroken grooves from end to end. Others I've seen have a diamond plate type groove system.

 

[mdarby]

Interesting: http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=113612

This is the exact MM I have -- it appears to be one of the first JSP manufactured! The end plates appear to be cast with raised initials, and the rollers have a linear knurl (not diamond). Looks like Jack will reknurl for a nominal fee. Awesome.

 

[twoodward15]

Try tightening your gap. .038ish is where you should start. That should get your other roller turning.

 

[mdarby]

Non-adjustable mill my friend.

 

[eddie]

That's really strange. Does the free-spinning roller turn easily by hand or is there some resistance? Also, is there any slop in the rollers bearings? Have you tried putting a little oil on the bearings? I can't help but think it must be getting hung up on something.

 

[mdarby]

Yep, the passive roller turns freely if I manually turn it. I've disassembled, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled. No love. It has to be the old-school linear knurl on the rollers. This mill is one of the first JSP manufactured based on my research.

 

[lumpher]

must be something to do with that. i've had my jsp non-adj for just a few months, and never had that o-ring. get about 80% efficiency without it

 

[spiny_norman]

I have exactly the same mill with exactly the same problem. I purchased mine about a year ago. O-ring broke the first time I used it; no worries it's not needed anyway (and says so in the notes that shipped with it). The passive roller issue happened after I motorized it, so I think I need to either disassemble and lubricate the pins and / or slow down the rpm or tighten the gap (which I can't as I also have the non-adjustable).

This is what works for me: start turning the roller before you put the grain in, then add the grain very slowly to get the passive roller turning. Once it's turning, quickly add more grain and keep the hopper full and it will keep crushing. I can reverse the motor on my setup so if the passive roller isn't catching I put it in reverse which throws out the (small) amount of grain and I try again. Usually it catches on the second attempt and I'm good to go. It drove me nuts initially though. I can turn the passive roller by hand but it's a little stiff.

 

[passedpawn]

You need to get it re-knurled. But then, with the fixed spacing, it might not get you a good grind. Might be unfixable. My malt mill will suck 1 grain instantly. I have sharp-ish spikes on my rollers (both).

I bought my mill used (from my LHBS). The passive does not move unless there is grain in there. I have no idea what this oring thing is you all are referring to.

 

[Duffer]

First if possible I would try to get the side plates as close to the ends of the rollers as possible so that the o-rings have no where to escape to. (can't jump off the ends)

second is on the later ones like mine, the opening of the hopper is quite narrow. I always wondered why since the rollers are so wide. Now I see! The narrow, centered hopper slot should not allow so much grain on to the rollers that the grain reaches the ends of the rollers and works the o-rings off.

last thought would be if you have a way to create a groove toward the end of the roller for the o-rings to ride in then it will be less likely to jump off the end.

It's definitely a knurl problem, but I think you can still make it work!