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durandf

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How do I get a final gravity lower. I brewed a batch of Red Ale. Partial Boil, All Extract...let it ferment for 12 days and had three consecutive readings of 1.022 for FG. I have a batch going now that had a SG of 1.52 and a great fermentation and want to make sure I get a real low FG. Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Extract batches usually finish higher then intended in the 1.020 range. You can't do much at this point. Just bottle it up when you get the chance.
 
When you say three consecutive readings of 1.022, you mean 3 days in a row? or did you just take 3 readings at the same time?

Did you pitch a starer or just a dry packet / vial? Did you aerate your wort well after cooling but before pitching yeast? Are you using a yeast with good attenuation? Do you have extra sediment in suspension from something? (are you measuring a nice clear beer or do you have visible stuff floating around in it?)
 
It was 3 consecutive days .....I did not aerate the wort but I did shake the hell out of the Carboy when I pitched the yeast with a liquod British Ale vial yeast. I did wait until the wort was about 72 degrees before I pitched the yeast. I think I still have particles floating around the beer when I measured it. I still have it in the primary fermenter and just saw a couple more bubbles in the airlock tonight
 
I was hoping to see a low low FG... Yeah that is common for extract beers man. That's why so many of us brew all grain, the wort is more fermentable and you have greater control over the process. I had a lot of extract beers stop around 1.020, whether they started at 1.050 or 1.090.
 
durandf said:
How do I do all grains...where can i get instructions on that process ?

Here, at HBT! Just read around and ask questions. I learned so much about all grain brewing before I even did it, I haven't had a single funky batch 15 beers later. The equipment is very basic as well if you just follow some of the DIY threads.
 
If you want to lower the final gravity you have to have to either have more fermentable sugars or a yeast with a higher attenuation level. One way to achieve this is to replace one pound of DME or 1.5 pounds of grain with a pound of pure cane sugar.

Also, I saw your comment about aeration...you have to aerate like a mofo. I pour my wort a dozen times between my kettle and bucket or carboy to get oxygen in it. I'm guessing this is the real problem. Try swirling your fermenter to stimulate the yeast.
 
Interesting about the aerating the wort...never heard that before...so aerate that before I pitch the yeast , huh ? Wow...learn something everytime. Thats great. Thanks
 
Interesting about the aerating the wort...never heard that before...so aerate that before I pitch the yeast , huh ? Wow...learn something everytime. Thats great. Thanks

Aeration is probably the most important thing to do post cooldown. According to Palmer...

"The yeast is the most significant factor in determining the quality of a fermentation. Oxygen can be the most significant factor in determining the quality of the yeast. Oxygen is both your friend and your enemy. It is important to understand when which is which."

Reading "How to Brew" is one of the best things a new brewer can do...

http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html
 
Wow......just took another reading and it's down to 1.014 and still bubbling in the airlock. Good Signs. Thanks
 
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