Help identifying faucet and seat washer

[clevelandg1837]

I have a beer faucet that looks similar to a Perlick 525. There are no identifying markings, but the faucets came with an Insignia 5.6 Cu. Ft. 2-Tap Beverage Cooler Kegerator, NS-BK2TSS6.

I do not know the proper name of the piece in the pictures, so I'm calling it a seat washer. I cannot tell what the material is.

Anyone know what this is called or where to get replacements? Any help is much appreciated.

I've tried Insignia, rebuild kit seller, home brew store, every internet search I could think of, and home brew friend.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yours is probably an older model. 425 perhaps?

The front seal on 525's is a regular round profile black rubber o-ring, alas a fat one.

 

[day_trippr]

It's definitely not a 425, and almost certainly not a Perlick.
I have no idea what it is aside from a quasi-525 clone. Parts may simply not be available anywhere.

Does that part go in the spout to seal the faucet lever? Actual Perls used a round cross-sectioned O-ring for that, perhaps it's a matter of finding a suitable O-ring?

Cheers!

 

[clevelandg1837]

The piece would sit in the spout to seal the faucet lever. Like #3, front O ring, in this 525 drawing:

I'm going to try some Buna O-rings from McMaster, the 204 and a couple sizes up and down.
I've seen some other posts about these Insignia keg mystery brand faucets, and the advice is get legit Perlicks. If I can't get it to seat with an O-ring, that's what I'll do.

 

[IslandLizard]

The front of your faucet definitely looks Perlick-y.

Perlick used to brag about their "floating" front seal. Yours actually resembles something that floats, there's no channel it's locked into.

The 525 seals are definitely not floating (anymore).
If you have a 525 on hand, when looking through the open top, you can see the vertical channel the front seal (the fat o-ring) slides into. That's how you remove and reseat that fat o-ring seal, not through the back as pictured above.

The seal you have in yours would not fit in a channel like that, the skinnier protrusion on the front preventing that.

 

[IslandLizard]

On a side note, in your picture, the cutouts in the collar (front and back) look like they were was filed down by hand. They're very rough and uneven. That does not look it was done by standard machining. Perhaps altered?

 

[day_trippr]

It's clearly a knock-off.

And the front O-ring channel on any Perl allows way more than enough travel to account for microscopic variations in the faucet lever position, as long as you use the proper sized O-ring and give the faucet the occasional cleaning. No doubt a neglected front seal will glue itself in place eventually...

Cheers!

 

[clevelandg1837]

Definitely rough edges. There is a channel in the front. I tried to take some pictures with and without the existing front seal piece in the faucet to try to illustrate (sorry they suck). In order for me to take out or put back in the existing front seal piece, I have to go through the lever opening down into the channel. The larger side of existing front seal piece faces the coupling side, and the smaller side of the existing front seal piece faces the spout opening. I can't tell if a real Perlick has this same sort of reduction in inner diameter after the channel. I'm hoping that an O-ring that is close to the measurements of the larger side of the existing front seal piece will fit into the channel alright and seat properly. I figure I'll try the cheaper route with just the O-ring trials before I invest in a new faucet.

 

[mopowers]

Definitely rough edges. There is a channel in the front. I tried to take some pictures with and without the existing front seal piece in the faucet to try to illustrate (sorry they suck). In order for me to take out or put back in the existing front seal piece, I have to go through the lever opening down into the channel. The larger side of existing front seal piece faces the coupling side, and the smaller side of the existing front seal piece faces the spout opening. I can't tell if a real Perlick has this same sort of reduction in inner diameter after the channel. I'm hoping that an O-ring that is close to the measurements of the larger side of the existing front seal piece will fit into the channel alright and seat properly. I figure I'll try the cheaper route with just the O-ring trials before I invest in a new faucet.

Did you ever figure this out? I have the same faucet that came with my Danby kegerator. Will a properly size o-ring work? What size did you go with??? Thanks!