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Yooper

Ale's What Cures You!
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I bought a four way distributor. First, can I superglue that to the side of the fridge? I don't want to drill holes, but I'm unsure if superglue will work.

Secondly, I have an idea that I want to run by you. I have a 10# tank and a 5 # tank. I want to run the beerline to the distributor, but have a disconnect in the line so that when one tank run outs, I can just take out the whole tank (regulator and all) and then put in the new tank. My fridge is kind of a pain to get the tank in and out, but with a disconnect I could pull it out and then take off the regulator. Does that make sense? If it does, then what would I need? I think a nipple with a hose clamp, and then another "connector" part, with a nipple and hose clamp is kind of what I'm thinking.

One last question! My favorite regulator is on my 5# tank. I want to put it on my 10# tank, but it doesn't fit. I need an extension from the regulator to the tank, because the 10# tank is wider. Can someone tell me what part that is, and what it's calledm and where to find it? (My excuse for calling all of these items "parts" is because I'm a girl).
 
I bought a four way distributor. First, can I superglue that to the side of the fridge? I don't want to drill holes, but I'm unsure if superglue will work.

I don't know about the glue, but I used industrial strength velcro to install mine 'temporarily'. It worked so well, I left it that way...
 
Depending on your regulator, the "line" from the regulator to the tank may be interchangeable. Mine are brass solid lines that thread into the regulator on one end and have the fitting for the tank on the other. Look closely at your regulators, you may only need to swap the lines.
 
I cut a piece of scrap oak board that was left over, and then glued it to the inside of my keezer with Goop Plumbers glue. Here's the link. Home Depot, Lowes, or any large box type store should have this glue.

This stuff is amazing, and I've been using it for a wide variety of glue jobs :confused: for the past ten years or so. It's flexible, durable, waterproof, and grips like crazy.

I cut another piece of 1x2 to use as a wedge to keep pressure on the piece of oak until the glue sets up.

Drill a couple of pilot holes into the oak board and mount the distributor onto the board, slather the glue onto the board, and wedge the assembly into the fridge. Once the glue sets up, you can pull the wedge board out.

Here's the inlet nipple from Micro-Matic, this one is a left hand thread. If you have a welding gas supply shop like Norco, or Oxarc around ( I know you live way out in the hinterlands) they would have the parts to make the adjustment.

Works for me....
 
Even if you don't go velcro I would take the approach of something removable just so you can take it out for cleaning/replacing/repairing later without more damage to it or the fridge. If I didn't have the velcro option I'd probably glue a block of something (thick plastic would be good) to the fridge and screw the manifold into that.
 
I would either use industrial velcro or 5 minute epoxy to attach a piece of wood to the fridge, then screw the distro to the wood.

For gas disconnects, I like regular air/pneumatic QDs that you can find at any auto parts or home improvement stores. They make ones with 1/4" thread or hose barb on either the nipple or QD female sides. So far no leaks.
 
I would either use industrial velcro or 5 minute epoxy to attach a piece of wood to the fridge, then screw the distro to the wood.

For gas disconnects, I like regular air/pneumatic QDs that you can find at any auto parts or home improvement stores. They make ones with 1/4" thread or hose barb on either the nipple or QD female sides. So far no leaks.

Perfect! Thank you so much for all the tips. :mug:
 

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