HELP! Flakes in the brew

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NJtarheel

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Any suggestions? As I was getting ready to bottle today, I opened my secondary fermenter and I was startled to find flakes floating in the beer. When I dry-hopped 2 weeks ago, I used a new nylon bag with Citra hops. At that time the beer looked fine. I had always used muslin bags for dry-hoping, but the local brew shop suggested this nylon bag. I boiled the nylon bag prior to use. This is my 13th batch and is the first time I've ever had an issue. Is the beer spoiled? I looks and smells fine! I typically go over the top regarding sanitization when I brew.
 
Pictures would be needed. What do the flakes look like? White and dusty=natural yeast/bacteria. Brown/green=hops, or as some like to call "flavor crystals". Because of the ph of beer, you will not get sick drinking an infected on, but since you said it passed the sniff test, if there are flakes, I would guess it is hops, trub, yeast, or other particulate matter. I recommend cold crashing prior to transferring. Put the fermenter in a fridge over night, and everything settles down to the bottom very nicely.
 
The flakes are white / ashy looking. When I filled my hydrometer flask, the flakes went right to the bottom or stayed on top. Nothing in the middle floating around. I don't have room in the fridge to crash it. Do you think a night in 35 degree weather would work?
 
Pictures would be needed. What do the flakes look like? White and dusty=natural yeast/bacteria. Brown/green=hops, or as some like to call "flavor crystals". Because of the ph of beer, you will not get sick drinking an infected on, but since you said it passed the sniff test, if there are flakes, I would guess it is hops, trub, yeast, or other particulate matter. I recommend cold crashing prior to transferring. Put the fermenter in a fridge over night, and everything settles down to the bottom very nicely.

Thanks Nanobru!
After furhter inspection, it appears I had a breech in the top of my nylon bag. It is flaky hops floating around. To correct the brew, I took a muslin bag, sanitized it and put it over the tip of the racking cane and using it as a filter gong into my bottling bucket. Seems to work fine..
 
That the way I like to rack to the keg. Letiing the hops float around freely and do their thing, cold crash it so everything falls to the bottom, then use a bag on the end of the transfer hose to catch any hop particulate matter before it gets into the keg.
 
That the way I like to rack to the keg. Letiing the hops float around freely and do their thing, cold crash it so everything falls to the bottom, then use a bag on the end of the transfer hose to catch any hop particulate matter before it gets into the keg.

He Nano,
I contacted my LBS after your reply and I asked them about cold crshing. They said that would be fine if kegging, but, not bottling because the yeast drops out also. What are your thoughts?
 
Start kegging? I naturally carbed in the bottle once or twice, and decided to just keg instead. Best idea I had at the time. For naturally carbonating beer properly, the brewer must take into account the amount of fermentable sugar present in the beer, yeast cell count and health/viability, CO2 present in fermented beer, additional sugar needed to reach required volume of CO2, temperature, time, etc. Very very complex task that even alot of the best breweries cannot even perform properly. That yeast on the bottom of commercial bottles is very rarely from naturally carbonating their product, it is from shear laziness, and rushing the product out to market before it has time to clear. "But it is unfiltered!" they say. Unfiltered does not have to mean cloudy with sediment in the bottom of every bottle. Example: Sierra Nevada. They naturally carbonate every bottle, and it always tastes the same, and there is only a LIGHT dusting of yeast on the bottom of the bottle, and if poured carefully, it will be clear beer. BUT.... I digress. In my opinion, bottling is a complex task that relies on the alignment of many stars, and an additional two weeks to turn out right (not just "drinkable", but "right"). Homebrewers are forced to bottle in the beggining, because like everything else, kegging takes more equipment which costs more money. Because naturally carbing is a very complex task, I recommend kegging so the homebrewer can worry about more important tasks in the beer making process, than how to carbonate (or worse, water chemistry)I keg for many reasons: Beer is ready in hours (if you shake) or days (if you wait) not weeks, there are only two variables (temperature and pressure), the carbonation will be perfect every time, and you dont have to bottle (unless you want to, then you can bottle off a keg, assured there is perfect carbonation.). Downsides of kegging? Cost, taste (only if you are a professional beer taster, I bet 99.9% of homebrewers wouldnt be able to tell the difference, but 100% will say they can.), and you drink it faster. Sometimes faster than it would take to carbonate in the bottle. Damn.... where were we? To cold crash or not if naturally carbonating.... I wouldnt, so you can be sure there is enough yeast to do the job. Then I would start kegging.
 
There will be plenty of yeast left in suspension after cold crashing to carbonate your beer if you are bottling. Go for it, though it won't necessarily help much with hop leaves floating around, it's mostly to reduce the amount of yeast that makes into the package.
 
I cold crash every batch that isn't a wheat beer and bottle carb/condition. I have never had an issue with carbonation for what it's worth.
 
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