Heatstick build - PVC Couplers

[sjlammer]

So i just read the Pols response to bargainfittings thread about stove elements and I noticed that he specifically listed CPVC couplers.

I recently built 3 heat sticks (two 2000W for the HLT im building, and a 5500W for my BK). I used the Pols method of building heatsticks.

Unfortunately without thinking i used a regular PVC coupling.

Will this work? or am i basically F-ed?

Will the regular PVC coupling melt?

 

[user 29674]

If its above the water/wort level it'll be fine. If its submerged, I'd be worried. The submerged part should be metal anyways. The PVC parts of mine are regular PVC. Only thing I've noticed bad about it is the weight of the cord + the heat of the steam rising has caused it to bend a little, but nothing to be concerned about.

 

[FreakinA]

I have 2 regular PVC couplings in my 2 heatsticks, they never get into the wort at all.

 

[sjlammer]

Now that i read that, i wasn't clear...

I did not make the stirring type of heat stick (the one that leans on the side of the pot)

I made one that mounts on the side of the kettle/HLT. so the threads poke through the kettle wall, and are wetted. the pvc coupling is on the outside of the kettle.

looks like this:

I was going to PM the pol, but i figured others may have the same question

 

[wilserbrewer]

The PVC will likely be fine, keep an eye on it, PVC is not as heat tolerant and could soften and cause a slight leak. Replce it if it will make you feel better, but on the outside of the kettle the heat is probably not that great.

 

[user 29674]

It will definately soften and you'll probably have to retighten it after than happens (if its threaded) but I doubt you'll have any issues with it.

 

[The Pol]

Okay... you could have just asked because now you are getting answers that are wholly incorrect because people dont know what we are talking about.

Since you built an element like mine, the coupler will not need to be tightened, it will not cause a leak... it wont do anything at all if it completely fell off.

The PVC will be fine, you followed my plans right? It will be fine, as the CPVC has no real function but to provide a mold for the potting material.

Also, the coupler doesnt get that hot, it is too far removed from the process.

Hope this helps

 

[wilserbrewer]

OK, got it, the PVC is merely a cap or cover on the outside of the element to cover the electrical lugs.

 

[The Pol]

OK, got it, the PVC is merely a cap or cover on the outside of the element to cover the electrical lugs.

Right, it is actually just a straight sleeve that the insulating potting material is then poured into, to cure. The electrical connections are then sealed in a chunk of water tight insulator so that they are safe. You could dunk the connections in water while energized and it would not be an issue, they are buried 1" deep in solid insulating material.

 

[IrregularPulse]

OK, got it, the PVC is merely a cap or cover on the outside of the element to cover the electrical lugs.

correct. Gives a cup basically to fill with an epoxy to water proof the otherwise exposed wire ends of the heating element.

I think calling it a heat stick confused people. It's simply a Hot Water Element mounted in a kettle.

 

[user 29674]

Ah - I thought he was using it to couple the heat stick to the kettle. Makes more sense now.

 

[sjlammer]

Thanks Pol, Sorry guys.... at least i don;t have to buy new heat sticks and re-pot them...

 

[IrregularPulse]

And just to clear up some confusion

Heat stick

Heating Element

 

[MTEXX]

My buddy and I built a HLT with a element protruding thru the bottom of a rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler using a sawed off PVC threaded part inside. Works great. However we developed a small leak. We tried to get the PVC off but it seems to have shrunk on tight. I think we're going to have to dremel it off.

This week I ordered a 1" NPT stainless lock nut from McMaster Carr. 4$ and change plus shipping, but should do the trick. Also ordered rubber washers to go with.

 

[The Pol]

My buddy and I built a HLT with a element protruding thru the bottom of a rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler using a sawed off PVC threaded part inside. Works great. However we developed a small leak. We tried to get the PVC off but it seems to have shrunk on tight. I think we're going to have to dremel it off.

This week I ordered a 1" NPT stainless lock nut from McMaster Carr. 4$ and change plus shipping, but should do the trick. Also ordered rubber washers to go with.

Hopefully it does, but the standard water heater elements are no NPT, which is probably one reason why the PVC part is so hard to remove, it is NPT and your element is more than likely not. Most are straight thread.

 

[IrregularPulse]

Pol is correct, you'll want the 1" Stainless Steel Locknut Straight threaded with groove for o-ring listed here