Heating element and controller

[rsaunch22]

I need to install a heating element to my 15 gallon ssbrewtech kettle for BIAB. I have a spout and a temp probe hole, but will need to drill out a hole. I'm electrician so familiar with metals but does anyone least painful method to smoothly make a hole for an element and perhaps advice toward an element to purchase?

Also anyone recommend a temp probe?

 

[hottpeper13]

As an electrician don't you have an hydraulic hole punch at your disposal? I used a 1" knockout on my first kettles. Don't know what size for an element.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Carbide hole saw also works well…

 

[Deadalus]

Most elements are 1" NPT threads, check specifically the one you want to buy of course. (You know this but for others reading that's the inner diamter so the hole will be bigger than 1".) I used a step bit on my keggles to get the holes for the elements. I just built a hood out of a keg and thought I might have it easier with a knockout punch but I still needed a step bit to drill the pilot hole as I didn't have a bit the size called for with the knockout. The holes on the hood were for 3/4" NPT. They came out smooth though and the kit that I got from Harbor Freight had a 1" size. So both methods worked on the keggle but how thick is your kettle?

You probably know this but if you use a step bit, brace well if it's in a hand drill. On my keggles, I recall that I smoothed at least one hole by quick touching up the other side with the step bit.

 

[Deadalus]

I'll add one thing. I don't have any experience with the TC elements but I have considered that I might go that route should I need to replace mine ever because they seem like they could be easier to clean. Completely different ball of wax though for me as everything I have is weldless bulkheads and NPT valves. I only recently noticed that there were TC weldless fittings. I have no idea how the electrical gets hooked up.

As far as the threaded elements, there are a scant number of threads, which may make fitting the element tricky. It pays to read the reviews carefully on say Amazon and look for brewer comments.

 

[doug293cz]

I'll add one thing. I don't have any experience with the TC elements but I have considered that I might go that route should I need to replace mine ever because they seem like they could be easier to clean. Completely different ball of wax though for me as everything I have is weldless bulkheads and NPT valves. I only recently noticed that there were TC weldless fittings. I have no idea how the electrical gets hooked up.

As far as the threaded elements, there are a scant number of threads, which may make fitting the element tricky. It pays to read the reviews carefully on say Amazon and look for brewer comments.

All of the TC elements I have seen have integrated L6-30 plug blades on them. All you need is a power cord with an L6-30 receptacle on the kettle end. The integrated plug also handles the grounding, without having to DIY up a way to ground the element and kettle. The plug on the element also makes power cord easily removable, so simplifies cleaning and moving the kettle. This is the only type of element I will ever use.

Brew on

 

[WesBrew]

And for the kettle you’ll need a 1.5” tri clover weldless bulkhead . That gives you something to attach the tri clover element to . I used a big step bit To cut the hole then smoothed with sandpaper
It’s a bigger hole so it might take longer. Be sure to keep the bit oiled and go in short bursts. If you heat it up and work harden the kettle it will be a pita to drill the rest of the way

 

[Deadalus]

All of the TC elements I have seen have integrated L6-30 plug blades on them. All you need is a power cord with an L6-30 receptacle on the kettle end. The integrated plug also handles the grounding, without having to DIY up a way to ground the element and kettle. The plug on the element also makes power cord easily removable, so simplifies cleaning and moving the kettle. This is the only type of element I will ever use.

Brew on

And for the kettle you’ll need a 1.5” tri clover weldless bulkhead . That gives you something to attach the tri clover element to . I used a big step bit To cut the hole then smoothed with sandpaper
It’s a bigger hole so it might take longer. Be sure to keep the bit oiled and go in short bursts. If you heat it up and work harden the kettle it will be a pita to drill the rest of the way

Good information! Weldless 1.5" TC bulkhead is about $20. Big step bit is around $30. Brewhardware.com will weld one for $42.99 and a ferrule is about $4-5. I might just haul my BK and HLT to Jersey next time I visit! I don't think I would use the big bit more than twice, meaning I don't think I would switch up to TC fittings on my keggles. (I'll be thinking about it though...) It would be nice to not worry about the junction box and the seal. It was a close fit when I put my regulator element in. The element has to span both the pot wall and the junction box. It was a fussy connection, I had a little leakage initially on one keggle. It was right away during testing. I got it situated though and sealed up good, no problems since but I also don't like having to be super careful cleaning it since it's hardwired.

 

[Bobby_M]

Would be glad to weld TC ports for you. I never thought I would be welding multiple TC ports onto kettles nearly every day of my life, but it's nice to provide a service that most welders wouldn't take on.

 

[Deadalus]

Would be glad to weld TC ports for you. I never thought I would be welding multiple TC ports onto kettles nearly every day of my life, but it's nice to provide a service that most welders wouldn't take on.

Yeah I don't know anyone in the area who would do it here and I've seen examples of your work and they always look nice. The more I think about it, the better option it appears to be. I have a good friend who lives in White House Station (plus family and friends all over the state, I grew up there) so I will bring them by on one of my next visits.

 

[rsaunch22]

Bringing out the ol 15 gallon ss brewtech after buying sometime ago... Never used... I'm going to just to BIAB but what is a good controller and heating element out there. I'm thinking 240 volt in case I upgrade. I'm an electrician and lazy . Any success out there with these specs?

Or anyone recommend a compatible 240v heating element and controller for BIAB?

 

[Sam_92]

I picked up all my stuff from Amazon. I got a 120v Dernord 1650w ss foldback element that has never let my down. I mostly brew 2.5 gallon batches and occasionally 4 gallon batches. The 4 gallon batches take a pretty long time to get up to a boil so I'm considering building a 240 setup.

I built my own controller too though so I maybe not really answering your question...

 

[doug293cz]

I highly recommend going to a 240V system as heating ~8 gal of water to strike and then boil temps will take a very long time at 120V (table of times at Brewhardware link below.) I also highly recommend the heating elements with integral NEMA L6-30 plugs, as they provide proper grounding to the kettle, without having to DIY a kludge, and the cord is removable for ease of cleaning and movement/storage. You can get this type of element at Brewhardware, among other places.

As far as pre-built controllers, I like the Auber Instruments Cube. The Blichmann BrewCommander is also popular. If you want to build your own controller, here's a design I recommend:

You can also use an Auber DSPR120 in the above design if you don't need programmed step mashing (can do manual stepping) or external alarm indicators (flashers/buzzers, they do have internal alarms.)

Brew on