HAZY IPA coming out dark

[HAZYIPA]

Kinda new to the homebrew thing but im on about my 8th batch 3rd batch all grain. So my problem is everything is going fine beer tastes ok when the beer is done fermenting and We keg or bottle it it is gold in color but it ends up turning to a darker brown later on within about 3 weeks or so we use paint strainers to try and catch anything that we happen to suck up durring transfer is oxidation causing this? Right now we are using buckets to ferment but i did just order a Spikes 15gal conical with the temp kit. Would cold crashing help this and if so how long do I cold crash for?

 

[jaymosbeershack]

Kinda new to the homebrew thing but im on about my 8th batch 3rd batch all grain. So my problem is everything is going fine beer tastes ok when the beer is done fermenting and We keg or bottle it it is gold in color but it ends up turning to a darker brown later on within about 3 weeks or so we use paint strainers to try and catch anything that we happen to suck up durring transfer is oxidation causing this? Right now we are using buckets to ferment but i did just order a Spikes 15gal conical with the temp kit. Would cold crashing help this and if so how long do I cold crash for?

Its most likely oxidation. NEIPA are particularly susceptible. Whats your kegging process?

 

[jaymosbeershack]

Also how long are the beers in the buckets?(they are permiable by O2)

 

[HAZYIPA]

Its most likely oxidation. NEIPA are particularly susceptible. Whats your kegging process?

Right now just using a siphon into the keg I usually try to purge out with co2 3 to 4 times then set it to carbonate.

 

[HAZYIPA]

Also how long are the beers in the buckets?(they are permiable by O2)

Usually about 3 weeks not sure if thats too long.

 

[HAZYIPA]

And we have been dry hopping so its probably getting some oxygen from that as well but after dry hopping the airlock is still doing its thing.

 

[jaymosbeershack]

My guess is that the beer is taking in o2 durring kegging. The best way to purge your keg is to fill it with sani, purge the head space a few times, then use co2 to push all the sani out of the keg. My beer has gotten much brighter since i started using this method.

 

[Iseneye]

Yeah that is getting oxidized. Can you do a closed transfer rather than using auto siphon? I have had commercial NEIPAs that were oxidized so you need to be rigorous.

 

[divrack]

Kinda new to the homebrew thing but im on about my 8th batch 3rd batch all grain. So my problem is everything is going fine beer tastes ok when the beer is done fermenting and We keg or bottle it it is gold in color but it ends up turning to a darker brown later on within about 3 weeks or so we use paint strainers to try and catch anything that we happen to suck up durring transfer is oxidation causing this? Right now we are using buckets to ferment but i did just order a Spikes 15gal conical with the temp kit. Would cold crashing help this and if so how long do I cold crash for?

Yea, oxy.
Neipa has pretty much zero tolerance of oxygen. Like I rarely even do a second dry hop after fermentation as even a few molecules of air can mess it up.
I do a closed transfer to liquid purged kegs exclusively for neipa.
You might get away with it if you transfer before fermentation is quite finished and add some sugar to keg, but really is just brew West coast style until you get your silverware.

 

[HAZYIPA]

When my conical shows up i will be able to do close transfers. So hopefully this will help out. Thanks for the info.

 

[yowzers]

I'd look at your autosiphon if you make another batch before you go to a conical. They are notorious for leaking (sucking) air in around the plunger. I ruined a few batches before I found it. You can test yours by siphoning some water from a bucket into a clear container. If you see any bubbles coming out of the end of the hose, it is a leaker.

 

[DVCNick]

When you are doing closed transfers, say you've liquid purged your keg so you know it is 100% CO2, obviously your fermenter is full of C02. Do you take any steps to purge your transfer hoses of air before starting?

 

[deadwolfbones]

What I do (I've done this with ported buckets/SS buckets AND a siphon from a barrel/unported bucket) is purge Star San out of a keg with CO2, vent most of the pressure, hook up transfer tubing from either the bucket port or the siphon to the OUT post on the keg, and hook up a CO2 line to the IN post and put the other end in a smaller bucket of Star San. I don't bother purging the transfer tubing, but I do sanitize it first (obvs). Then I either open the valve on the bucket or start the siphon. Bubbles from the bucket the CO2 line is in tell me if the transfer is going as planned (if it stops bubbling, I usually need to clear debris from the OUT post).

 

[Iseneye]

When you are doing closed transfers, say you've liquid purged your keg so you know it is 100% CO2, obviously your fermenter is full of C02. Do you take any steps to purge your transfer hoses of air before starting?

I purge the transfer line by running a portion of beer through the line to a cup so that the line is now full of beer and not air. Then I connect the transfer line to keg and start the process.