Has anyone used the 12" cooler false bottom in a kettle?

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BBBF

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I picked up a false bottom to build a 10 gallon cooler mlt. However, I just upgraded to a kettle but still plan on keeping my 10 gal, polarware BK. I like the added insulation of the cooler, but the kettle allows for less equipment to store, stainless bling and already has a valve and thermometer. So what do you think?

A. 12" false bottom + kettle for the win.
B. Sell the false bottom and use a braid in the kettle.
C. Coolers and false bottoms... Stick to the original plan.
 
Using the kettle with the FB as a mash tun, correct? I bought a 12-ish gallon stainless kettle from the local Asian market to replace my 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler-based MT. The kettle is about 15" in diameter and the FB is 12". Works great on my setup and I saw no difference in efficiency between the kettle and cooler.
 
I'm using a false bottom designed for a 10 gal. Rubbermaid cooler in a 44 qt. Bayou Classic kettle with no problems. When my cooler split I inserted the 44 qt. kettle into the shell per a DIY example on here. Works great.
 
What kind of temperature drop are you getting with those set ups?
 
What kind of temperature drop are you getting with those set ups?

i don't measure it because I am running a RIMS system to hold my mash. Once the temperature has stabilized I am have about 1 deg. difference between the mash tun output and the RIMS output.
 
BBBF said:
What kind of temperature drop are you getting with those set ups?

And I use a HERMS setup so like a RIMS, temp drops aren't really a concern.

Good point though. You'll want to have some means of maintaining temps on a kettle-based MT whether its RIMS/HERMS, direct fire, etc.
 
Definitely prefer a false bottom for a mash tun than a braided hose or other manifold.
 
And I use a HERMS setup so like a RIMS, temp drops aren't really a concern.

Good point though. You'll want to have some means of maintaining temps on a kettle-based MT whether its RIMS/HERMS, direct fire, etc.

The boil kettle is going to be electric and the plan has always been to control it with a PID I have an extra, 3/8" copper immersion chiller and a single chugger pump. I could start off by disconnecting a lot of hoses and upgrade to another pump at a later date and 1/2" tubing (if needed) in the future. This could work. :mug:
 

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