Hardwiring an Inkbird Thermostat ITC-1000

[shabby5]

I've been to many of these forums about wiring the temp control. Most of them have a separate box with an additional plug. That is not my intentions at all. I have bypassed the Thermostat on the freezer and spliced a wire to go put my thermostat on the collar in the front of my unit.

I got it programmed and everything looked great. (I went port #1 to splice with port 7 to cool, and port #2 to port #8. NO wiring for 5/6 as those heat it and I only need a fridge out of it. 3/4 for the sensor)

When I checked on it this morning, it was frozen. Is this an issue with how I wired it, or is it how I had it set? I switched it over to farenheit and set it to 40 degrees. I think the differential was set only at a few degrees. Is there something I missed on the control? Is wiring in the heat necessary to not freeze?

:rockin:

 

[phug]

where was your temp sensor located during this overnight freezing

 

[shabby5]

where was your temp sensor located during this overnight freezing

The sensor was in a cup of water, inside the freezer all night.

 

[raouliii]

......I got it programmed and everything looked great. (I went port #1 to splice with port 7 to cool, and port #2 to port #8. .....3/4 for the sensor)
....

If port 1 is connected to port 7, port 2 should not be connected to port 8. That would create a direct short when a call for cooling occurs. I'm guessing that's not actually the way it is wired.

 

[inkbird]

Hope this information could help you.

http://www.ink-bird.com/asset/file/ITC-1000 Manual - V1.3.pdf

 

[day_trippr]

When embedding the controller to take over the oem thermostat function, pin 1 of the controller should go to the AC hot feed, pin 2 should go to the AC neutral feed, then pins 7 and 8 can take the "in and out" wires from the oem thermostat (in either order, makes no difference, it's just a switch).

If one side of the oem thermostat is the AC hot feed directly, you can indeed splice a connection from it to both pin 1 and either pin 7 or 8.

But the other pin (8 or 7) must go to the other connection that was on the oem thermostat, and pin 2 of the controller must go to AC neutral (which the oem thermostat never has a connection thereto)...

Cheers!

 

[shabby5]

Here are some pics to show you how I have it. I don't have it set up to heat, so nothing is in that slot. I spliced into the wires going to the original thermostat to bypass it. I may have bitten off more than I can chew as I know relatively little about wiring switches.

Day Trippr, if I'm understanding you correctly, I have the hot wire in one. Neutral is in 2 as stated. Splices into those wires go to 7 and 8 respectively. My splice around the OEM Thermo should be correct, as it was just cutting it out of the equation. If that is the situation, then I'm definitely missing something.

 

[shabby5]

If port 1 is connected to port 7, port 2 should not be connected to port 8. That would create a direct short when a call for cooling occurs. I'm guessing that's not actually the way it is wired.

That is how I have it. Where should that go then?

 

[raouliii]

Remove all that electrical tape and then we can actually see how it is wired. I've never understood taping up wire nuts. It's just not necessary.

Correct me if I'm wrong: The flatish, black, wire at the very bottom of the second photo is the original power cable for the appliance. The round black cord in the center of the second photo is one that you added that leads to the inkbird unit.

IF the above is correct, then do only the following.

Unplug the appliance from the wall.

At the bottom of the appliance, connect the flat cord black wire to the new round cord black wire. Connect the flat cord white wire to the new round cord white wire and the white compressor wire. Connect the new round cord green wire to the yellow compressor wire.

At the inkbird, connect the black wire to port 1 and port 7. Connect the white wire to port 2. Connect the green wire to port 8.

It is now set up for cooling only.

 

[shabby5]

Remove all that electrical tape and then we can actually see how it is wired. I've never understood taping up wire nuts. It's just not necessary.

Correct me if I'm wrong: The flatish, black, wire at the very bottom of the second photo is the original power cable for the appliance. The round black cord in the center of the second photo is one that you added that leads to the inkbird unit.

IF the above is correct, then do only the following.

Unplug the appliance from the wall.

At the bottom of the appliance, connect the flat cord black wire to the new round cord black wire. Connect the flat cord white wire to the new round cord white wire and the white compressor wire. Connect the new round cord green wire to the yellow compressor wire.

At the inkbird, connect the black wire to port 1 and port 7. Connect the white wire to port 2. Connect the green wire to port 8.

It is now set up for cooling only.

That is the case. The wire nuts you see by the compressor were only to bypass the existing thermostat, so nothing should be needed to change. The only thing different is I don't have the ground going to 8. I have a neutral. I'll try that when I get home, but I can get it to cool. The problem is that it goes MUCH cooler than I tell it to. I'm going to swap out that neutral when I get home to see if that helps.

 

[Steelhorses]

Power goes into #8 and that same power is switched INTERNALLY by the inkbird to #7 out to you compressor. This is based on the temp input as to whether it is switched on (Temp above set point) or the inkbird senses by the temp sensor it is at set temp so it switches the internal SSR to off.

Keep in mind you have 2 power circuits going here.... one for the unit (Inkbird) and the second is for the compressor control on the Keezer/Kegerator. Think of 7 & 8 as a single wire on the hot side of things for the Keezer ( the Inkbird is the switch in that wire). You can splice the feed to #1 into #8 as well (which is how most people seem to do it)

 

[raouliii]

My original recommendation:

Remove all that electrical tape and then we can actually see how it is wired. I've never understood taping up wire nuts. It's just not necessary.

Correct me if I'm wrong: The flatish, black, wire at the very bottom of the second photo is the original power cable for the appliance. The round black cord in the center of the second photo is one that you added that leads to the inkbird unit.

IF the above is correct, then do only the following.

Unplug the appliance from the wall.

At the bottom of the appliance, connect the flat cord black wire to the new round cord black wire. Connect the flat cord white wire to the new round cord white wire and the white compressor wire. Connect the new round cord green wire to the yellow compressor wire.

At the inkbird, connect the black wire to port 1 and port 7. Connect the white wire to port 2. Connect the green wire to port 8.

It is now set up for cooling only.

That is the case. The wire nuts you see by the compressor were only to bypass the existing thermostat, so nothing should be needed to change.....

Stop! My recommendation is a complete package deal. I was not providing you with a few different things to try. If you don't change the wiring at the bottom, DON"T change the wiring at the controller. The directions can not be followed partially.

....The only thing different is I don't have the ground going to 8. I have a neutral. I'll try that when I get home, ....

In my recommendation, the green wire IS NOT BEING USED as a ground. It is simply a wire, that happens to have green insulation, being used out of convenience, as the HOT conductor between the switched output of the controller and the compressor.

I can't imagine that you actually have a neutral connected to port 8 and hot connected to port 7. That would create a direct short between hot and neutral when cooling was requested. At the very least a breaker would trip.

....but I can get it to cool. The problem is that it goes MUCH cooler than I tell it to. I'm going to swap out that neutral when I get home to see if that helps.

Again. My explanation can not be followed partially and be successful.

I'll say it again. Take off the tape so the wiring can be seen. In particular, I can't tell what the red thing is in the bottom photo. It looks like a wire nut but what is it connecting?

Neither can I tell how the controller wiring is connected. Are all the blacks connected and all the whites connected?

It's very possible that you have simply wired the compressor to always be on.

The last thing I want done is for you to partially take my advice and break something.