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half couplings??

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balto charlie

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What is a half coupling?? Is this used when you only to connect to one side(like a sight glass). You will need "non" 1/2 coupling for ball valve(outside) and drain inside?? I was stunned at the number of choices in the catalogs:cross:
Thanks Charlie
 
What's the price diff between a half and a full and where are you looking?
I'd be inclined to get full no matter what because you never know if you will re-purpose with a herms coil, etc.
 
What is a half coupling?? Is this used when you only to connect to one side(like a sight glass). You will need "non" 1/2 coupling for ball valve(outside) and drain inside?? I was stunned at the number of choices in the catalogs:cross:
Thanks Charlie

A half coupling is just that a 1/2 of a coupling. Its a coupling that has been cut in half. yes there for things like a sight glass and temp probs etc. I make, and use them all the time on my systems.
Cheers
JJ
 
I'm a big fan of having inside threads even if you think you don't need them. There's nothing like paying a welder to weld in ANOTHER half coupling after the fact. Also, putting a short nipple on the inside of the sight glass entry point will stop boiling bubbles from getting into the sight glass.
 
I'm a big fan of having inside threads even if you think you don't need them. There's nothing like paying a welder to weld in ANOTHER half coupling after the fact. Also, putting a short nipple on the inside of the sight glass entry point will stop boiling bubbles from getting into the sight glass.

Nice tip. I hate stopping the boil to check boil-off.
 
I'm a big fan of having inside threads even if you think you don't need them. There's nothing like paying a welder to weld in ANOTHER half coupling after the fact. Also, putting a short nipple on the inside of the sight glass entry point will stop boiling bubbles from getting into the sight glass.

+1 to Bobby's point...A buddy and I used the same sight glasses on our system, he used 1/2 couplers, I used full. He has boiling water sprout out of the top of his at any given moment, I don't...As for the temp prob...you still want a full coupler so that you can install a probe guard on the inside to protect it from breaking off.

Rick
 
I'm a big fan of having inside threads even if you think you don't need them. There's nothing like paying a welder to weld in ANOTHER half coupling after the fact. Also, putting a short nipple on the inside of the sight glass entry point will stop boiling bubbles from getting into the sight glass.

Sorry to rob the thread, but can you explain this? You put a nipple on the inside of the kettle? This stops the boiling from entering the sight glass?
 
Yes. Think about a stem bubble forming on the bottom of the kettle. It breaks free off the bottom and "wiggles" its way up through the column of wort not exactly at a 45 degree angle, but not always straight up. Some of them find their way into the bulkhead fitting of a sight glass and it causes a burp. Introducing a slight horizontal path into the bulkhead makes those bastards think twice.. figuratively.

insidekettle.jpg


I'm talking about the smaller 2" brass nipple you see in the pic. It made all the difference.
 
If it's just a smooth edge up the side of the keg into the coupling (i.e - The coupling is welded flush with the inside edge of the keg) then nothing stands in a bubble's way as it climbs the side and into the sight glass...with a full coupling, you can install a threaded nipple into the inside of the coupling...the threads are enough resistance that the bubble doesn't enter the sight glass, or at least not enough to cause the water to shoot out the top. My buddy had to put electrical tape on the top of his sightglass because boiling water would shoot out at any given time.
 
Before I figured it out, my makeshift answer was to put a piece of vinyl tubing on the top of the glass and have it curl back into the kettle. At least no one was getting burned that way.
 
Great tip on adding the nipple inside for the sight gauge. I'm in the process of figuring out what to get welded on to my keggles. Saved me a headache or two.

Question regarding the temp probe though. I was planning on a 1/2 coupling for that. How durable are those thermometers (I'm planning on using a BrewMometer)? I don't have one yet hence the question. Is a guard (and therefore a full coupling) really needed?
 
From my experience, the full coupling are the way to go.
The difference in cost is very minimal and it gives you future options.

Mine sticks into the kettle enough that I don't seem to have any problems with bubbles in the sight glass during boil.

Also, highly recommended are the thermo stem covers, a la Bobby M. When you are stirring your mash or boil kettle it is REALLY easy to beat on those things. It is a cheap 'n easy insurance policy. (Bobby's pic shows it - just a 1/2" copper tube with holes drilled in it.)
 
I put guards on all three of my therms. The HLT, Mash tun and kettle...those therms are expensive and the last thing I would want to do is replace one because I didn't spend the $2 on materials to protect it....that's just silly.
 
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