Guidance needed for setting up a True GDM-26 for Fermentaion Chamber

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rodduley

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I have a True GDM-26 with a built in receptacle that the compressor plugs into. I just wanted to verify this is the proper approach to configuring my fermentation chamber with the two stage Inkbird ITC-308 controller I have. I have read a reply from a similar previous posting that suggests, “Plug the cooler and the controller into a wall receptacle. Plug the compressor plug into the controller receptacle. Note however, don't plug the controller into the receptacle built into the cooler, since it is controlled by the cooler's thermostat. This should result in the lights and evaporator fan to always have power”. Also should I set the original thermostat on the GDM to it’s highest setting?

If this is the correct configuration to follow what would you recommend the settings on the controller set to? (TS (Temperature Set Value), HD (Heating Differential), CD (Cooling Differential), AH (Alarm High Limit), AL (Alarm Low Limit), PT (Compressor Delay), CA (Temperature Calibration)
etc.) I know many of you are also proponents of placing the probe on the fermentation vessel and insulated with closed cell foam which I plan to do. Also, with the GDM 26 that I have the specs state: 115/60/1 (voltage) and 7.2 (amps). Can I use this Inkbird ITC-308 controller for this? I don't know what it will draw on start up and I believe the Inkbird is rated to only 10 amps. Will this controller be OK to use and if not is there another option I should consider

Any thoughts or guidance is greatly appreciated,
 
I have a GDM 12 with a Brewpi and love it. Wish I went with the 26 though, since I can only do 20 gallons at a time in the 12. So, good choice!

I have the brewpi controlling the compressor only so the fan and lights have power always, which is exactly how it sounds like you've planned to do it. I've debated controlling everything with it, since the fan definitely adds heat and it probably runs more often than it would otherwise need to, but I didn't want to risk the coils icing up if the fan only ran during cooling cycles.

That may not be a concern, I think someone here is doing it that way, but I don't care enough about the extra running to make a change. Enjoy it!
 
Oh, just saw your power draw question. I used a power tail so the brewpi is protected from initial draw. It's been working perfectly for well over a year and probably 5 or 6 lager cycles. Just do that and call it good.
 
Hey jackyl, thanks for the reply. So you are verifying that I just plug the compressor directly into the Inkbird ITC-308 "cooling" receptacle and then also plug the GDM 26 cord directly into another wall outlet so that the fan and lights operate continuously and separately? I believe there is one of our HBT brethren "raouliii" that recommends this set up also, so the fan running continuously not only guards against the coils icing up but does in fact produce some heat that eliminates the need to install a heater all together.

A couple more questions: I'm not sure I understand your use of a "power tail" with the brewpi to protect from initial draw. Also could anyone recommend some initial settings for the inkbird ITC-308 so I don't screw up the operation of my fermenter or burn out my compressor.

Sorry if these are "ignorant" questions but I just want to get it right the first time.
 
This is what I used since the brewpi can't go directly in line with the power the fridge uses:

http://www.powerswitchtail.com/Pages/default.aspx

I don't think you need that, just check the specs on your controller and make sure it is rated for the startup draw - there should be a plate on the fridge that tells you that.

So yeah, if that's all okay, you can take the compressor plug into the controller and controller to house power. Then plug the "main" fridge plug into house power for your fan and lights. That's it. Not sure on your controller settings but I've had the brew pi everywhere from low 60s to low 40s for over a year now and it's all worked perfectly so you should be fine with whatever.
 
Thanks for the link. Sounds like I'm getting close to setting this thing up.

So the GDM-20 should be to it's highest setting for when cooling kicks in or this doesn't matter?
 
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