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Good Point on the 90 degree bend in the dip tube. I think I will get the racking tube and move it to my chronical and then I will move my chronical ball valve w/tube to the kettle.

This kettle it really solid. I was in the process of doing a custom kettle for eBiaB when I came across this deal - saved me a ton of money and a really nice kettle.
 
quoting a post from another thread because it seems relevant to those of us that got in on the fire sale:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...-technologies-240v-ebiab-system.652801/page-5
After seeing hints of this on GBT's IG, I was very concerned about future support in the event there are any issues with my system. Reached out to Rex on it and his response was:

"For the time being we will be focusing on our wholesale work that we have built up over the last year.

Yes, we will for sure continue to support any customers that have bought products from us in the past, as we might at some point get back into the home brew market especially as we continue to grow."

Bummer. Still, after all said and done, I love my setup and still have no regrets. I've gotten tons of compliments on it. I've ran 5 batches though and its a killer system. Glad to hear they're not going out of business and will still offer continued support for us past customers.

So, it sounds like GBT was dumping the last of their inventory of gear for homebrewers.
 
Good Point on the 90 degree bend in the dip tube. I think I will get the racking tube and move it to my chronical and then I will move my chronical ball valve w/tube to the kettle.

This kettle it really solid. I was in the process of doing a custom kettle for eBiaB when I came across this deal - saved me a ton of money and a really nice kettle.

Drifting the topic some, but, have you found the diptube actually useful with the chronical? I’ve only done a couple batches in mine, but it doesn’t seem like it makes any difference to me. I think I’m switching mine to butterfly valves and I’m not sure I’m going to have a diptube at all.
 
Drifting the topic some, but, have you found the diptube actually useful with the chronical? I’ve only done a couple batches in mine, but it doesn’t seem like it makes any difference to me. I think I’m switching mine to butterfly valves and I’m not sure I’m going to have a diptube at all.

I don't know that the dip tube makes a lot of difference. I like the ball valve better for sampling.
 
mine just arrived, looks decent but my logo isnt the darkest nore even (looks stamped twice, like a slight offset) but for 126.....whatever.... might try to remove it with bar keepers and ghetto etch my logo on it

however looks like the two tangential ports are a pretty narrow diameter like the dip tube port. most likely will not be able to do a pass through set up i was planning for recirc on the upper port. what is everyone planning to do with the upper port?
 
mine just arrived, looks decent but my logo isnt the darkest nore even (looks stamped twice, like a slight offset) but for 126.....whatever.... might try to remove it with bar keepers and ghetto etch my logo on it

however looks like the two tangential ports are a pretty narrow diameter like the dip tube port. most likely will not be able to do a pass through set up i was planning for recirc on the upper port. what is everyone planning to do with the upper port?
I haven't decided if i'll put a TC cap on it or not bother and just leave it open. Maybe hang the big metal spoon I use to stir the mash and boil from it?
 
mine just arrived, looks decent but my logo isnt the darkest nore even (looks stamped twice, like a slight offset) but for 126.....whatever.... might try to remove it with bar keepers and ghetto etch my logo on it

however looks like the two tangential ports are a pretty narrow diameter like the dip tube port. most likely will not be able to do a pass through set up i was planning for recirc on the upper port. what is everyone planning to do with the upper port?
Funny you mention that.
I had thought of sliding a silicone hose through the top port for a recirculation return that can be delivered below the surface.

Lower tangential port seems like a candidate for temp probe.

Mine will most likely function as an EHLT most of the time.
 
mine just arrived, looks decent but my logo isnt the darkest nore even (looks stamped twice, like a slight offset) but for 126.....whatever.... might try to remove it with bar keepers and ghetto etch my logo on it

however looks like the two tangential ports are a pretty narrow diameter like the dip tube port. most likely will not be able to do a pass through set up i was planning for recirc on the upper port. what is everyone planning to do with the upper port?

My friend bought one of the kettles but I haven't gotten over there to check it out yet. Is there any possibility to drill the center hole of the two tangential ports to a larger size?
 
Funny you mention that.
I had thought of sliding a silicone hose through the top port for a recirculation return that can be delivered below the surface.

Lower tangential port seems like a candidate for temp probe.

Mine will most likely function as an EHLT most of the time.
It would need to be a 5-6" temp probe. Much shorter and it would be in the pipe portion of the port and not give an accurate temp, much longer and it would touch the kettle wall on the other side.
My friend bought one of the kettles but I haven't gotten over there to check it out yet. Is there any possibility to drill the center hole of the two tangential ports to a larger size?
No, you'd have to remove the port entirely and put a new one on. If you have the metalworking skills to do that, you could probably start with a pot that has no ports at all. :)
 
Funny you mention that.
I had thought of sliding a silicone hose through the top port for a recirculation return that can be delivered below the surface.
(meant to reply to this point as well)

I thought about the same thing, but it would have to be less than 5/8" OD hose, which, with silicone, would be a very small hose. You could, however, fit a length of SS tubing of a reasonable size through the port and attach silicone hose on each end.
 
So, besides the port for the electric element. What should I use the others for? Right now I just have a 10 gallon with a ball valve and temp probe for my gas set up. Was hoping to do more with this but from what you guys are writing I might be pretty limited. Just dont want to get useless stuff for those other ports.
 
i am going to try this. i do not think i will be able to remove it with the compression fitting still on, but i can undo the TC to clean it, leaving it loose in the port. expensive but my only solution to threading on a whirlpool arm. i am going to drill the lid for a TC weldess fitting to do my recirc arm.
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Compression-Tube-1.5-Inch-x-1.5-Inch.html

i think i can get the .5" OD tube thru the 5/8 port

really want a long arm like https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/spincycle.htm
 
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Forget the whirlpool arm; you have a tangential port!

Just return the pump into the lower tangential port and watch it spin!
 
@Spikybits

I've been using this kettle for several months now. What I've found that works the best for me is to put a TC tee on the drain port. I connect one end of the straight run to the kettle and a TC valve to the other end of the straight run. I position the tee line to point upwards and put my temp probe in that.

I have a line of silicone tubing from the TC valve to my pump inlet and I have a TC valve on the pump outlet.

I punched a hole in the lid for a TC recirculation port.
I cap the upper tangential port.
I put a TC valve on the lower tangential port.

When I am mashing, I have a line of silicone tubing from the pump outlet to the lid port and keep the lower tangential valve closed.
When I am boiling, whirlpooling and chilling, I have a line of silicone tubing from the pump outlet to the lower tangential port and cap the lid port.
When I drain into the fermenter, I have a line of silicone from the TC valve on the drain port tee that goes into the fermenter.
 
Mind posting a picture of your setup?
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I believe the diptube was from Grounded. I bought the kettle/basket package they were selling last year. It came with 3 butterfly valves, a basket, a TC diptube and the gaskets and clamps. They also sold a package with a controller but I already had the cube.
 
Since I bought 2 kettles I am curious on how viable a 2 vessel system (full volume continuous recirculating mash) would be with these kettles if I got a false bottom made for one of these.
 
I've never been too interested in BIAB, being used to three vessel since I started all-grain. However, I came across an old gift certificate for https://www.brewinabag.com/ that I got from a homebrew contest. So, i contacted them and ordered a bag for this kettle. I'll at least give it a shot, maybe even use that top tangental port for something! :)
 
I decided to pull my Spike out of the box since it showed up Thursday. Same lids, same handles, same rolled lips
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I bought one of these grounded brewing kettles. I've been brewing 5 gal all-grain batches using a rectangular cooler for mashing and a basic 10 gal SS vessel for heating water and boiling wort. On my kitchen stove.

Want to explore BIAB in my basement, using this kettle with a heating element installed. Or, an induction stove if thats possible. Doubtful that my kitchen stove can bear the weight. And its going to be a hard to lift the grain bag and generally uncomfortable to use.

1. Will it be possible to boil 10+ gal with an induction stove?
2. Will an 240V heating element do a better job. Do i need a false bottom with this?
3. Can i even brew in my basement, the only ventilation being a couple of small windows.

Any suggestions on which would be easier and where to start would be appreciated :)

thank you
 
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I bought one of these grounded brewing kettles. I've been brewing 5 gal all-grain batches using a rectangular cooler for mashing and a basic 10 gal SS vessel for heating water and boiling wort. On my kitchen stove.

Want to explore BIAB in my basement, using this kettle with a heating element installed. Or, an induction stove if thats possible. Doubtful that my kitchen stove can bear the weight. And its going to be a hard to lift the grain bag and generally uncomfortable to use.

1. Will it be possible to boil 10+ gal with an induction stove?
2. Will an 240V heating element do a better job. Do i need a false bottom with this?
3. Can i even brew in my basement, the only ventilation being a couple of small windows.

Any suggestions on which would be easier and where to start would be appreciated :)

thank you
Best accessory for BIAB is a place to hang a pulley over the kettle. Really simplifies lifting the bag.

You don't need much ventilation if you use this.

Brew on :mug:
 
I got my 2 kettles and am very impressed by the quality. I transferred the valves from my SSbrewtech BME kettle to try a BIAB session this weekend. As the other guy said the valve / pickup from the SSbrewtech cronical works perfect as well as the bottom valve from the BME kettles. They don't have the valve setup listed online so I emailed to see if they will sell a la carte (I want my kettle to match) I am contemplating the viability of making a Brutus 2 vessel system using direct fire to get up to temp, then mach recirculation RIMS with my 120v setup, then pump wort to BK. I dunno. Here is a pic of mine with the valves on.
 

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i do not buy to much from morebeer - but if you need replacement SSbrewtech parts - IE stuff they typically do not sell individually - more beer carries a large selection including the racking arm, ball valve with push fitting dip tube, and the push fit dip tube with trub dam(out of stock though). i have gotten the general hint that they do not like selling individual parts too much unless you have their system and you go through customer service - specifically the trub dam dip tube. https://www.morebeer.com/category/ss-brewing-technologies.html?page=3

i would advocate you buy directly from them if you can but i know i have tried looking for the trub dam dip tube by itself and its been a bear. i think it will push right into the TC dip tube 5/8 hole with o rings. then you can use any TC 1.5 valve. i am not a fan of the npt thread on the outside of the SS brewtech valve.
 
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I was able to buy the racking arm/adapter assembly, but after looking at Spike V3 again, I ended up buying a 15 Gallon spike with false bottom so that I will #1 have matching pretty kettles, but also because I didn't want to have to figure out a false bottom setup among other things. I will probably be posting up my kettle with racking arm assembly for sale shortly. All unused, with the packaging that it came in, just to get my money back out of it.
 
If you decide to sell it let me know... I am considering making one into a mash tun.
 
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