Grounded Brewing Kettle sale.

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IMO, the Grounded Brewing guy ripped people off. It was not disclosed that the bore size was not industry standard for 1" and 1.5" tri clover fittings.

Look at the hole size in these pictures, it is the *larger* more appropriate size, whereas the kettles shipped were smaller non-standard size, this is a misrepresentation of item sold:

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...2a988/1535169571737/DSC_0442.jpg?format=1500w

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...d707d/1539315382688/DSC_0423.jpg?format=1500w

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...015c3/1539315382775/DSC_0427.jpg?format=1500w

This is the dip tube included in the system:

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...86e1a7/1543459853055/IMG_7641.jpg?format=750w

At the very least Grounded Brewing should be sending all those who bought a kettle one of those dip tubes if they even fit in the small bore.
 
Last edited:
MildAvers said:
IMO, the Grounded Brewing guy ripped people off. It was not disclosed that the bore size was not industry standard for 1" and 1.5" tri clover fittings.

Look at the hole size in these pictures, it is the *larger* more appropriate size, whereas the kettles shipped were smaller non-standard size, this is a misrepresentation of item sold:

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...2a988/1535169571737/DSC_0442.jpg?format=1500w

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...d707d/1539315382688/DSC_0423.jpg?format=1500w

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...015c3/1539315382775/DSC_0427.jpg?format=1500w

This is the dip tube included in the system:

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...86e1a7/1543459853055/IMG_7641.jpg?format=750w

At the very least Grounded Brewing should be sending all those who bought a kettle one of those dip tubes if they fit in the small bore.
Click to expand...
I disagree. The bore size is consistent with fittings for 1/2" ball valves and 1/2" hose barbs, which are the most common fittings used on those ports by homebrewers. If I had a very specific requirement for the bore size on those ports, I would have verified the bore size with the seller prior to purchase.
 
MildAvers said:
IMO, the Grounded Brewing guy ripped people off. It was not disclosed that the bore size was not industry standard for 1" and 1.5" tri clover fittings.

Look at the hole size in these pictures, it is the *larger* more appropriate size, whereas the kettles shipped were smaller non-standard size, this is a misrepresentation of item sold:

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...2a988/1535169571737/DSC_0442.jpg?format=1500w

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...d707d/1539315382688/DSC_0423.jpg?format=1500w

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...015c3/1539315382775/DSC_0427.jpg?format=1500w

This is the dip tube included in the system:

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...86e1a7/1543459853055/IMG_7641.jpg?format=750w

At the very least Grounded Brewing should be sending all those who bought a kettle one of those dip tubes if they even fit in the small bore.
Click to expand...
Ripped off? That kettle was worth the price with just a single element TC installed. You can resell it at a profit right now.
 
In my mind - the pictures on the site do show a larger industry standard bore size and they are pictured with the larger butterfly valves, so was he ridding his inventory of the smaller bore size?

5/8" bore w/ 1/2" valve is ok but where do you get a 1.5" TC 1/2" valve aside from building one w/ a 1/2" valve and a 1.5" TC to 1/2" NPT adapter?

It's good to know that others *don't* agree and see things differently that way I can process things the way others see them.
 
MildAvers said:
In my mind - the pictures on the site do show a larger industry standard bore size and they are pictured with the larger butterfly valves, so was he ridding his inventory of the smaller bore size?

5/8" bore w/ 1/2" valve is ok but where do you get a 1.5" TC 1/2" valve aside from building one w/ a 1/2" valve and a 1.5" TC to 1/2" NPT adapter?

It's good to know that others *don't* agree and see things differently that way I can process things the way others see them.
Click to expand...
Maybe that's exactly why they had the "spring blowout" price, BUT that bore size is pretty common on homebrew equipment. SSbrewtech sells many things that have that bore size (or very close) on 1.5" TC:
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collecti...ts/ball-valve-1-2-id-1-5-tc-to-1-2-female-npt
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/oxygenation-kit
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collecti...p-racking-arm-for-chronical-series-fermenters
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/micro-elbow
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/1-5-tri-clover-compatible-clamp-tee
MildAvers said:
Looked at these sites:

https://www.brewershardware.com/
https://www.brewhardware.com/
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Hardware-Tri-Clover.html
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Hardware-Tri-Clover-Solutions.html
https://www.glaciertanks.com/sanitary-ball-valves.html
Click to expand...
Of those four vendors, at least two of them sell 1/2" ball valves on 1.5" TC. A third (Norcal) sells it with a smaller TC on the other side. I just did a quick look at NorCal and Glacier, i might have missed them. So that's at least three vendors to choose from (brewhardware, SSBT, Brewershardware, brewhardware, and brewhardware (to show some preference to the one that has posted helpful info in this thread. :))).
 
@TallDan Would you be kind enough to point out the 1/2" ball valves with 1.5" TC fittings with 5/8" bore?

Ok, I see your link to the SSBT one, which are the other ones?
 
Last edited:
MildAvers said:
@TallDan Would you be kind enough to point out the 1/2" ball valves with 1.5" TC fittings with 5/8" bore?

Ok, I see your link to the SSBT one, which are the other ones?
Click to expand...
Dude, I don't know what your problem (EDIT: with the ID of these fittings) is. All I can tell you is the ID of the ball valves and fittings that I personally have. I don't know anything more about those parts than what's listed on their webpages. You asked where one could buy 1/2" ball valves with 1.5" TC flanges and i pointed out that several online vendors do. If you're going to be anal retentive about the specific ID of the ball valve fittings, i suggest that you contact the vendors to confirm it before purchase, as you should have done with this kettle if this was going to be such an issue for you. You did not get ripped off, you made a poor purchase decision if your needs are for larger ID on the TC ports.
 
Last edited:
MildAvers said:
IMO, the Grounded Brewing guy ripped people off. It was not disclosed that the bore size was not industry standard for 1" and 1.5" tri clover fittings.

Look at the hole size in these pictures, it is the *larger* more appropriate size, whereas the kettles shipped were smaller non-standard size, this is a misrepresentation of item sold:

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...2a988/1535169571737/DSC_0442.jpg?format=1500w

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...d707d/1539315382688/DSC_0423.jpg?format=1500w

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...015c3/1539315382775/DSC_0427.jpg?format=1500w

This is the dip tube included in the system:

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...86e1a7/1543459853055/IMG_7641.jpg?format=750w

At the very least Grounded Brewing should be sending all those who bought a kettle one of those dip tubes if they even fit in the small bore.
Click to expand...
I have no dog in this fight, but if you look at those pics again, you can see the ID of the front ports are way smaller than the ID of the valves.

I’ve been through this before with my SsBrewtech BME kettle, so I was expecting the drain port to be smaller.
Hoping that they offer stock of their dip tube again so I can buy one, otherwise the the SsBrewtech valves will work. Maybe some other solution is out there? That’s why I posted about it.

I may not even use a pick up tube. I need to see how much is left behind when draining without one.

Now, when it comes to variances from the picture, you can see where the top tangential port is below the handle. The kettle I received, has that port inline with the handle. No way to use it with anything less than 15 gallons in it, if you want to avoid splashing.

All that said, I do not feel ripped off at all. If anything, I feel like I stole it!
 
FunkedOut said:
All that said, I do not feel ripped off at all. If anything, I feel like I stole it!
Click to expand...
100% agree. Really stoked about this, in fact, I'm kinda questioning myself for not buying three of them now. Just cleaned mine up some, the inside of the pot was clean, but the TC ports had some manufacturing residue in them. Pretty standard for any new SS stuff that I've bought.
 
FunkedOut said:
I have no dog in this fight, but if you look at those pics again, you can see the ID of the front ports are way smaller than the ID of the valves.
Click to expand...

I've looked at those pics compared to the kettle and the bore size in the pics are the industry standard as stated in the posted documents.
 
UoA9yUJSSd-MMuxNC_oY3Q.jpg
Just to test it, I attached my 1/2 inch ball valve with pickup tube from my SS brewtech chronical - it fits perfectly and goes to the bottom of the kettle.
 
Bad Bubba said:
View attachment 618143 Just to test it, I attached my 1/2 inch ball valve with pickup tube from my SS brewtech chronical - it fits perfectly and goes to the bottom of the kettle.
Click to expand...
I guess I know what I’m getting for mine! Thanks!

I just got a 20 gallon spike + with TC for $250 I guess my new 2 vessel system is coming together faster than I expected!
 
Bad Bubba said:
I think this will work for a dip tube if you order at 2" height or custom. My opening appears to 5/8" and about 1 3/4" off the bottom.
Click to expand...

Not sure how you could verify this, but if the dip tube is fixed to the TC, it *may* not fit through. The SSBT dip tubes are less than 90degree and don’t have a lot of extra space going through there.
 
Illustrating my concern, the diptube from my blichman boilermaker does not fit through.
IMG_2860.JPG

The SSBT tube does.
IMG_2861.JPG

They are very close, or the same OD, but with a different bend.
IMG_2863.JPG
 
Good Point on the 90 degree bend in the dip tube. I think I will get the racking tube and move it to my chronical and then I will move my chronical ball valve w/tube to the kettle.

This kettle it really solid. I was in the process of doing a custom kettle for eBiaB when I came across this deal - saved me a ton of money and a really nice kettle.
 
quoting a post from another thread because it seems relevant to those of us that got in on the fire sale:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...-technologies-240v-ebiab-system.652801/page-5
Quadrider said:
After seeing hints of this on GBT's IG, I was very concerned about future support in the event there are any issues with my system. Reached out to Rex on it and his response was:

"For the time being we will be focusing on our wholesale work that we have built up over the last year.

Yes, we will for sure continue to support any customers that have bought products from us in the past, as we might at some point get back into the home brew market especially as we continue to grow."

Bummer. Still, after all said and done, I love my setup and still have no regrets. I've gotten tons of compliments on it. I've ran 5 batches though and its a killer system. Glad to hear they're not going out of business and will still offer continued support for us past customers.
Click to expand...

So, it sounds like GBT was dumping the last of their inventory of gear for homebrewers.
 
Bad Bubba said:
Good Point on the 90 degree bend in the dip tube. I think I will get the racking tube and move it to my chronical and then I will move my chronical ball valve w/tube to the kettle.

This kettle it really solid. I was in the process of doing a custom kettle for eBiaB when I came across this deal - saved me a ton of money and a really nice kettle.
Click to expand...

Drifting the topic some, but, have you found the diptube actually useful with the chronical? I’ve only done a couple batches in mine, but it doesn’t seem like it makes any difference to me. I think I’m switching mine to butterfly valves and I’m not sure I’m going to have a diptube at all.
 
TallDan said:
Drifting the topic some, but, have you found the diptube actually useful with the chronical? I’ve only done a couple batches in mine, but it doesn’t seem like it makes any difference to me. I think I’m switching mine to butterfly valves and I’m not sure I’m going to have a diptube at all.
Click to expand...

I don't know that the dip tube makes a lot of difference. I like the ball valve better for sampling.
 
mine just arrived, looks decent but my logo isnt the darkest nore even (looks stamped twice, like a slight offset) but for 126.....whatever.... might try to remove it with bar keepers and ghetto etch my logo on it

however looks like the two tangential ports are a pretty narrow diameter like the dip tube port. most likely will not be able to do a pass through set up i was planning for recirc on the upper port. what is everyone planning to do with the upper port?
 
Spikybits said:
mine just arrived, looks decent but my logo isnt the darkest nore even (looks stamped twice, like a slight offset) but for 126.....whatever.... might try to remove it with bar keepers and ghetto etch my logo on it

however looks like the two tangential ports are a pretty narrow diameter like the dip tube port. most likely will not be able to do a pass through set up i was planning for recirc on the upper port. what is everyone planning to do with the upper port?
Click to expand...
I haven't decided if i'll put a TC cap on it or not bother and just leave it open. Maybe hang the big metal spoon I use to stir the mash and boil from it?
 
Spikybits said:
mine just arrived, looks decent but my logo isnt the darkest nore even (looks stamped twice, like a slight offset) but for 126.....whatever.... might try to remove it with bar keepers and ghetto etch my logo on it

however looks like the two tangential ports are a pretty narrow diameter like the dip tube port. most likely will not be able to do a pass through set up i was planning for recirc on the upper port. what is everyone planning to do with the upper port?
Click to expand...
Funny you mention that.
I had thought of sliding a silicone hose through the top port for a recirculation return that can be delivered below the surface.

Lower tangential port seems like a candidate for temp probe.

Mine will most likely function as an EHLT most of the time.
 
Spikybits said:
mine just arrived, looks decent but my logo isnt the darkest nore even (looks stamped twice, like a slight offset) but for 126.....whatever.... might try to remove it with bar keepers and ghetto etch my logo on it

however looks like the two tangential ports are a pretty narrow diameter like the dip tube port. most likely will not be able to do a pass through set up i was planning for recirc on the upper port. what is everyone planning to do with the upper port?
Click to expand...

My friend bought one of the kettles but I haven't gotten over there to check it out yet. Is there any possibility to drill the center hole of the two tangential ports to a larger size?
 
FunkedOut said:
Funny you mention that.
I had thought of sliding a silicone hose through the top port for a recirculation return that can be delivered below the surface.

Lower tangential port seems like a candidate for temp probe.

Mine will most likely function as an EHLT most of the time.
Click to expand...
It would need to be a 5-6" temp probe. Much shorter and it would be in the pipe portion of the port and not give an accurate temp, much longer and it would touch the kettle wall on the other side.
k-os said:
My friend bought one of the kettles but I haven't gotten over there to check it out yet. Is there any possibility to drill the center hole of the two tangential ports to a larger size?
Click to expand...
No, you'd have to remove the port entirely and put a new one on. If you have the metalworking skills to do that, you could probably start with a pot that has no ports at all. :)
 
FunkedOut said:
Funny you mention that.
I had thought of sliding a silicone hose through the top port for a recirculation return that can be delivered below the surface.
Click to expand...
(meant to reply to this point as well)

I thought about the same thing, but it would have to be less than 5/8" OD hose, which, with silicone, would be a very small hose. You could, however, fit a length of SS tubing of a reasonable size through the port and attach silicone hose on each end.
 
So, besides the port for the electric element. What should I use the others for? Right now I just have a 10 gallon with a ball valve and temp probe for my gas set up. Was hoping to do more with this but from what you guys are writing I might be pretty limited. Just dont want to get useless stuff for those other ports.
 
i am going to try this. i do not think i will be able to remove it with the compression fitting still on, but i can undo the TC to clean it, leaving it loose in the port. expensive but my only solution to threading on a whirlpool arm. i am going to drill the lid for a TC weldess fitting to do my recirc arm.
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Compression-Tube-1.5-Inch-x-1.5-Inch.html

i think i can get the .5" OD tube thru the 5/8 port

really want a long arm like https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/spincycle.htm
 
Last edited:
Forget the whirlpool arm; you have a tangential port!

Just return the pump into the lower tangential port and watch it spin!
 
@Spikybits

I've been using this kettle for several months now. What I've found that works the best for me is to put a TC tee on the drain port. I connect one end of the straight run to the kettle and a TC valve to the other end of the straight run. I position the tee line to point upwards and put my temp probe in that.

I have a line of silicone tubing from the TC valve to my pump inlet and I have a TC valve on the pump outlet.

I punched a hole in the lid for a TC recirculation port.
I cap the upper tangential port.
I put a TC valve on the lower tangential port.

When I am mashing, I have a line of silicone tubing from the pump outlet to the lid port and keep the lower tangential valve closed.
When I am boiling, whirlpooling and chilling, I have a line of silicone tubing from the pump outlet to the lower tangential port and cap the lid port.
When I drain into the fermenter, I have a line of silicone from the TC valve on the drain port tee that goes into the fermenter.
 
I believe the diptube was from Grounded. I bought the kettle/basket package they were selling last year. It came with 3 butterfly valves, a basket, a TC diptube and the gaskets and clamps. They also sold a package with a controller but I already had the cube.
 

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