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good soil mixture for hops?

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This thread is full of more shiat than a hog farm's runoff pond after a plague of dysentery! :D
 
well I just prepped for 40 rhizomes and this is what I did in clay or very close to it. I dug my holes 12"diamater and 3' deep I put about 1" of wood ash covered with about 2" of straw and watered with about 5 gallons. The soil that I pulled from the holes I mixed in a concrete mixer 50/50 with a good soil amendment from the landscape materials place here in Redding I also added a small handfull of 15-15-15 to the mix before I put it all back in the hole, Then watered very good. Then to top it all off I built 40 boxes 18"x18"x6" and set them over the holes this is where I added the GOOD STUFF an organic planting mix. I did all this yesterday.
now I am just waiting on rhizomes. 20 williamette 20 horizon
I cant hardly sleep:)
JJ
 
Jaybird said:
well I just prepped for 40 rhizomes and this is what I did in clay or very close to it. I dug my holes 12"diamater and 3' deep I put about 1" of wood ash covered with about 2" of straw and watered with about 5 gallons. The soil that I pulled from the holes I mixed in a concrete mixer 50/50 with a good soil amendment from the landscape materials place here in Redding I also added a small handfull of 15-15-15 to the mix before I put it all back in the hole, Then watered very good. Then to top it all off I built 40 boxes 18"x18"x6" and set them over the holes this is where I added the GOOD STUFF an organic planting mix. I did all this yesterday.
now I am just waiting on rhizomes. 20 williamette 20 horizon
I cant hardly sleep:)
JJ

Sounds similar to what I did. I put near 40 in the ground the other day, and keep thinking those boxes are going to get small next year. Anyways, I guess if it does, I'll be back down in there working the ground again next year.
 
karbinator said:
keep thinking those boxes are going to get small next year. Anyways, I guess if it does, I'll be back down in there working the ground again next year.
Oh ya me too but this is just to get me started. I will be pulling the boxes next year once the rhizoms have a chance to establish
JJ
 
WHat about using spent grains in the soil? If that works then I may finally have a use for the grains.

Season starts later here but I should have 15 in a few weeks to a month from now. Can hardly wait.
 
I am trying half wine barrels this year and organic soils.
Drilled a few drain holes, added small rocks and layers of
different soils.
"worm tea" doubled my production two years ago.
Still haven't figured out how they milk worms ;)
waiting to see if they grow before worrying about a trellis though.
My plan is to screw eye hooks into the wine barrels and a few
in the gazebo above them.
 
Maybe I'm too simplistic I just used the commercial planting soil for vegetables and flowers. :)
 
I dug down about 14", coated the bottom with ash from our fireplace (maybe 1/2" or 1"), then mixed a few small scoops of old horse manure (parents own a few harness racehorses) along with the tilled soil, and covered w/mulch. Didn't do any boxes like I see in the trellis design pages, but I'm not worried about where the roots propagate.
 
One thing I read was to make sure the nitrogen levels are not high. SO if you are using uncomposted manure or fertilizers, be wary.

Any ideas on what kind of nutrients spent grain provide? I was thinking of mixing some in but not sure what kindo of chemical composition they will impart to the soil.
 
Denny's Evil Concoctions said:
One thing I read was to make sure the nitrogen levels are not high. SO if you are using uncomposted manure or fertilizers, be wary.

Any ideas on what kind of nutrients spent grain provide? I was thinking of mixing some in but not sure what kindo of chemical composition they will impart to the soil.

I typically compost them even tho' it's not necessary. Additionally I use them as a thin layer (1/2" to 1") of mulch. When the top dries it form a hard crust but gently scrape the surface and it's all mush. Spent grain certainly makes for a good moisture retainer so be wary of your watering schedule and take that into account.

I have never seen anything reported on the chemical makeup of spent grain.
 
Denny's Evil Concoctions said:
One thing I read was to make sure the nitrogen levels are not high. SO if you are using uncomposted manure or fertilizers, be wary.

Any ideas on what kind of nutrients spent grain provide? I was thinking of mixing some in but not sure what kindo of chemical composition they will impart to the soil.

Possibly you can get an idea from seed meal numbers. What they are off the top of my head, I don't know. The chickens and ducks get mine :D.
 
The free compost from the city in my city has a ton of trash in it so if you are getting it from the city I would look at it before I get it. Ours is not worth the trouble of picking out the pastic bag pieces
 
I'm considering composting my spent grains along with chicken manure from the coop. I figure after a nice long decomposition, it can't hurt...
 
I would be wary on the spent grain. I started a compost heap with mine and just like previously stated it formed a hard layer on top. when I moved the top layer though it was nothing but blue and white furry mold. I am not putting that on my rhizome.
 
I just got my hops in the ground yesterday. I cut the bottoms out of 6 5 gallon homer buckets and dug holes deep enough for them to sit down in with about 1 inch sitting above the ground. I made up a mixture of 4 bags of brown cow composted topsoil, 2 bags of mushroom compost and 1 bag of composted cow manure. Filled the buckets with the mixture and heaped it all into a mound covering the sides of the exposed buckets. Put the rhizomes in about 2 inches deep and was done. I think they will be happy.
 
Kugster said:
OK...but is that "steer" or "horse" manure? I spoke with a Master Gardner last night about the difference between horse and cow manure and she could not answer my question. I've been told that I should not use horse manure? Does anyone know the difference or why?

I think I will look into the cities free compost. Living on the outskirt of Phoenix there are still alot of farms.

I am actually going to make a few phone calls to some other Master Gardners and see if they have any insight?

Thanks for the add-info!

Cheers!

Kug
:rockin:

I don't know if this is true but what i was told years ago was that horse manure is less refined by the animal so more seeds make it through, as oposed to cow manure where the animal has more stomachs so things are better digested. If this is the case composting it would make it just as viable i would think.
 
Jaybird said:
man this has become a $hity thread...
JJ

I think I may have the most simple method of all of you...I just planted two Centennial and two Cascades today. Dug down about 2 feet to turn the soil, and mixed in some really $hitty smelling compost :). Then evened it out and added 3" of Miracle Gro top vegetable garden soil. We'll see how they do...I'll be sure to post back with pics! Thanks for all the info here, great resource...
 
Denny's Evil Concoctions said:
Wasn't working earlier, now it works. Probably a HD server problem.
Not working for me either.. How about you just tell us what it is?

Right now I have mine inside in pots with bagged dirt from Lowes. I'm quessing it's about the same thing.
 
Kellogg All Natural Outdoor Potting Soil 1.5 Cu. Ft.

Model 681

$4.97/EA Each
d10152b9-f308-4127-a4da-d270481d5ef8_400.jpg
 
I added a full size truckload to the soil early this year, and plan for more. It's acidic if fresh from stalls, so be sure to ask the guy if it's been sitting for awhile.
Don't want to raise the PH with it, you just want fertilizer. A month outside in a pile is a good rule.
I really use this on EVERYTHING on my property. Trees , and shrubs Love it, and my uncle puts it so thick in his garden every year that you'll sink to your knees=soil is very fluff.

Hi dear here a suggestion for you from my end because i read in your post that you are adding soil in field or garden. But for the health growth of grass or veg you need to add topsoil with your soil which is very important for growth of the plant.

Thanks.
 
1 part uncomposted screened pine or fir bark (1/8-1/4")
1 part screened Turface
1 part crushed Gran-I-Grit (grower size) or #2 cherrystone
1 Tbsp gypsum per gallon of soil
Control Release Fertilizer (if desired)
Source of micro-nutrients or use a fertilizer that contains all essentials
1/8 -1/4 tsp Epsom salts per gallon of fertilizer solution every time you fertilize (if soluble, it is probable it does not contain Ca or Mg)

Sand, as most of you think of it, can improve drainage in some cases, but it reduces aeration by filling valuable macro-pores in soils. Unless sand particle size is fairly uniform and/or larger than about BB size, I leave it out of soils. Compost is too fine and unstable to consider using in soils. The small amount of micro-nutrients it supplies can easily be delivered by one or more of a number of chemical or organic sources that do not detract from drainage/aeration.
 

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