I dug down about 14", coated the bottom with ash from our fireplace (maybe 1/2" or 1"), then mixed a few small scoops of old horse manure (parents own a few harness racehorses) along with the tilled soil, and covered w/mulch. Didn't do any boxes like I see in the trellis design pages, but I'm not worried about where the roots propagate.
good soil mixture for hops?
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One thing I read was to make sure the nitrogen levels are not high. SO if you are using uncomposted manure or fertilizers, be wary.
Any ideas on what kind of nutrients spent grain provide? I was thinking of mixing some in but not sure what kindo of chemical composition they will impart to the soil.
Any ideas on what kind of nutrients spent grain provide? I was thinking of mixing some in but not sure what kindo of chemical composition they will impart to the soil.
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Denny's Evil Concoctions said:
I typically compost them even tho' it's not necessary. Additionally I use them as a thin layer (1/2" to 1") of mulch. When the top dries it form a hard crust but gently scrape the surface and it's all mush. Spent grain certainly makes for a good moisture retainer so be wary of your watering schedule and take that into account.
I have never seen anything reported on the chemical makeup of spent grain.
Thanks. I have 15 rhizomes coming soon and now I am wondering just how I am going to string 15 12 foot lines!
zoebisch01
Well-Known Member
Denny's Evil Concoctions said:
Possibly you can get an idea from seed meal numbers. What they are off the top of my head, I don't know. The chickens and ducks get mine
.modenacart
Well-Known Member
The free compost from the city in my city has a ton of trash in it so if you are getting it from the city I would look at it before I get it. Ours is not worth the trouble of picking out the pastic bag pieces
Hagen
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I'm considering composting my spent grains along with chicken manure from the coop. I figure after a nice long decomposition, it can't hurt...
Okiebrewer
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I would be wary on the spent grain. I started a compost heap with mine and just like previously stated it formed a hard layer on top. when I moved the top layer though it was nothing but blue and white furry mold. I am not putting that on my rhizome.
jdoiv
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I just got my hops in the ground yesterday. I cut the bottoms out of 6 5 gallon homer buckets and dug holes deep enough for them to sit down in with about 1 inch sitting above the ground. I made up a mixture of 4 bags of brown cow composted topsoil, 2 bags of mushroom compost and 1 bag of composted cow manure. Filled the buckets with the mixture and heaped it all into a mound covering the sides of the exposed buckets. Put the rhizomes in about 2 inches deep and was done. I think they will be happy.
l3uerger
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Kugster said:
I don't know if this is true but what i was told years ago was that horse manure is less refined by the animal so more seeds make it through, as oposed to cow manure where the animal has more stomachs so things are better digested. If this is the case composting it would make it just as viable i would think.
man this has become a $hity thread...
JJ
JJ
TwoHeadsBrewing
Well-Known Member
Jaybird said:
I think I may have the most simple method of all of you...I just planted two Centennial and two Cascades today. Dug down about 2 feet to turn the soil, and mixed in some really $hitty smelling compost
. Then evened it out and added 3" of Miracle Gro top vegetable garden soil. We'll see how they do...I'll be sure to post back with pics! Thanks for all the info here, great resource...
OP
OP
GarciasHomeBrew
Well-Known Member
this is all i used and my rhizomes are growing fast.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100160888&N=10000003+90029+528811
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100160888&N=10000003+90029+528811
GarciasHomeBrew said:
Link isn't working.
TwoHeadsBrewing
Well-Known Member
Denny's Evil Concoctions said:
hmmm, works for me
TwoHeadsBrewing said:hmmm, works for me
Wasn't working earlier, now it works. Probably a HD server problem.
Not working for me either.. How about you just tell us what it is?Denny's Evil Concoctions said:
Right now I have mine inside in pots with bagged dirt from Lowes. I'm quessing it's about the same thing.
Kellogg All Natural Outdoor Potting Soil 1.5 Cu. Ft.
Model 681
$4.97/EA Each
Model 681
$4.97/EA Each
Hi dear here a suggestion for you from my end because i read in your post that you are adding soil in field or garden. But for the health growth of grass or veg you need to add topsoil with your soil which is very important for growth of the plant.
Thanks.
1 part uncomposted screened pine or fir bark (1/8-1/4")
1 part screened Turface
1 part crushed Gran-I-Grit (grower size) or #2 cherrystone
1 Tbsp gypsum per gallon of soil
Control Release Fertilizer (if desired)
Source of micro-nutrients or use a fertilizer that contains all essentials
1/8 -1/4 tsp Epsom salts per gallon of fertilizer solution every time you fertilize (if soluble, it is probable it does not contain Ca or Mg)
Sand, as most of you think of it, can improve drainage in some cases, but it reduces aeration by filling valuable macro-pores in soils. Unless sand particle size is fairly uniform and/or larger than about BB size, I leave it out of soils. Compost is too fine and unstable to consider using in soils. The small amount of micro-nutrients it supplies can easily be delivered by one or more of a number of chemical or organic sources that do not detract from drainage/aeration.
1 part screened Turface
1 part crushed Gran-I-Grit (grower size) or #2 cherrystone
1 Tbsp gypsum per gallon of soil
Control Release Fertilizer (if desired)
Source of micro-nutrients or use a fertilizer that contains all essentials
1/8 -1/4 tsp Epsom salts per gallon of fertilizer solution every time you fertilize (if soluble, it is probable it does not contain Ca or Mg)
Sand, as most of you think of it, can improve drainage in some cases, but it reduces aeration by filling valuable macro-pores in soils. Unless sand particle size is fairly uniform and/or larger than about BB size, I leave it out of soils. Compost is too fine and unstable to consider using in soils. The small amount of micro-nutrients it supplies can easily be delivered by one or more of a number of chemical or organic sources that do not detract from drainage/aeration.
