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Going electric and at a loss

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Your looking at in in reverse.First figure out what you want out of your control box,Will you be adding pumps,do you really need an alarm ETC...Then figure out the parts and wiring from there...I went bare bones and am more than happy with it.A year later and I still wounldnt add anything,it gets the job done.

My simple setup:
Aubrins 2352 pid
Temp probe and wire connections from aubrins.
40 amp SSR
Heatsink off ebay. The bigger the better.
A light switch from HD to turn power off to element
30 amp receptacles from HD
An emergency stop(red button) that hopefully will never get used

The pot:
5500W hot water heating element
very simple connection from brewhardware to mount the element to the kettle.,Much nicer and easier than the kal clone connection(no disrespect to Kal)

I run a 10G cord from the dryer to a spa panel,and a 10G extention cord from the spa panel in the basement to my kitchen where I brew. Very simple all around and works fantastic...Also brewing indoors in the middle of the winter with the tunes on and a fire goin is mighty nice...Get er' goin!!

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I did sorta document my system on Facebook on the Home Brew Network. But I will try to clean it up early next week and post a zip here for you. Most electric brewery type systems are full up 3V. If I admitted my sparge vessel is a 5 Gallon HDPE bucket with a 20A high watt density 115V element in it the experts here would barf all over me. (it is fine even at boil). So if I do post what I did I am going to disclaim that it is 100% up to you what you do with that info. I am not suggesting that you build my setup. But I can likely make it clear enough. Even my element mounting is the cheapest you can get.. And will be criticized by the experts. The spa panel two pole GFCI is the key. One thought I had for a really cheap system was a 15 gallon aluminum pot with a 5500W element run at 120V (1250W) for use on a stove or a dorm room electric burner or a better kettle with that and a 1500W induction plate. There are many off the wall ideas that can work for a beginning system. I am an Electrical Engineer too, used to work on radios, now I am working on big airplanes. Mostly software, but that us where the $ is. This stuff is really simple by comparison.
 
I will say that 7A at 245V according to the meter I have on my system will sustain 7 gallons so that gives you an idea of the minimum in a 5 Gallon system. It needs better than 10A to get to a boil. So that is 3KW total..
 
I'm putting together a new ebiab setup currently and I was in the same boat. After a few weeks of research, I realized I could definitely build one, but with a 10 month old son and another one on the way, I know I would never have the time. I found the Jaggerbush Bbr1.0 online and I think it's the cheapest pre-made unit by far. I've been emailing the owner/builder and he seems pretty straight forward. I'm probably going to pull the trigger this week.
 
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