Goind Electric for an HLT Keggle, your feedback please

[jflongo]

So far this is what I have come up with, please provide any feedback on how this looks.

voltage/current display, just thought it would be cool, and was pretty cheap on EBAY. Just got it in the mail the other day.

5500 Watt 240V Heating Element

Replace my current 30A 240V breaker and outlet with GFCI versions.(used to use this for a welder in my garage).

Illuminated Maintained Pushbutton Switch, 2 NO, 22mm. 120/240V
Item #: SW1

•LED Color Option - Red
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=223:fe5f3b5b27bb004c6e7d40ce2b9b568b

$10.98


1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output)
Item #: SYL-2352
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3

$46.50

Amico Liquid Measuring 50mm x 5mm PT100 Type Earth Thermocouple Probe 1 Meter 3.3ft, I will probably get one a little longer.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C97IYHS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

$5.92

40A SSR
Item #: MGR-1D4840
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30

$19.00

External Mount Heat Sink for 40A SSR (Square)
Item #: HS40ET
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=224

$20.00


Box for 1/16 DIN controller
Item #: Pbox16
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=143

$29.67


Around $150+ in parts

 

[augiedoggy]

No need for the 40a breaker.... the 40a SSR is just capable of up to 40a.... you will still only be using like 23a and it only draws what the element draws.
Your other choices are pricey.... you can get a 2 way switch with indicator light and two contractor which is safer and more reliable for $15-20 total and I strongly recommend a my pin TD4 pid if your concerned about saving some $$$ does everything the auger does for around $25.99 shipped from the states....
You can also use a bigger box so later when you want to add a separate pid for a desperate rims or herms coil or boil kettle you will be able to just add them.
Oh yeah....lots of better rtd probe options on eBay or amazon like the pt-100 for anywhere from $6 to $16 shipped
You can get USSR with heat sinks for about $11 shipped or buy the combo with the rtd and pid for like $40-45 shipped

 

[jflongo]

I may look into get a junction box instead that is larger. Also, I will probably get this welded into my keggle. And then cap it. Use propane until I can get this slowly piece together.

http://brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

2. ETC4FYou want to have a 1.5" Triclover port welded into your vessel.

Model: ETC4F- This kit is the same as option 1, but also adds a 1.5" TC long ferrule (shown right) which you will have welded into a 1.5" hole in your vessel. While there has been some success with soldering these into vessels using hole-flaring techniques, these are only recommended to be TIG welded in for strength reasons. The vessel hole required is 1.5". $49

 

[jflongo]

I just pulled the trigger on getting a 1.5" TC long ferrule and the cap. I just picked up another keggle, so I'll have this ferrule and two 1/2" couplers tig welded into this keggle.

 

[jeffmeh]

An RTD probe is a better choice than a K type thermocouple for accuracy.

 

[jflongo]

An RTD probe is a better choice than a K type thermocouple for accuracy.

The PID I have linked up there says this. It mentions K type, not RTD.

Input sensor: K type thermocouple (sensor not included)

 

[jeffmeh]

The PID I have linked up there says this. It mentions K type, not RTD.

Input sensor: K type thermocouple (sensor not included)

The Auber 2352 will take an RTD, PT100 probe. The default setting when the unit is shipped is for a K type thermocouple.

----------------------

Main Specifications:


Input type
TC: K, E, S, WRe, J, T, B, N
RTD: Pt100, Cu50, 0-80 ohm, 0-400 ohm.
DC voltage:0~20 mV, 0-100 mv, 0~5V, 1~5V, 0~1V, -100~100mV, -20~20mV, -5~5V, 0.2~1V.
DC current: 4~20mA.

Input range
K (-60~2300ºF), S (-60~3100ºF), WRe (32~4150ºF), T (-330~660ºF), E (32~1500ºF),
J (32~1800ºF), B (32~3300ºF), N (32~2400ºF)Pt100 (-320~1100ºF), Cu50 (-60~300ºF)
Linear input: -1999~+9999 defined by user

Display
Two lines, Four digits. °F or °C.

Display Resolution
1°C and 0.1 °C. or 1°F

Accuracy
±0.2% or ±1 unit of full input range

Control mode
Fuzzy PID, Manual control, On-Off

Output mode
12V DC for external SSR

Alarm
Process high/low alarm, deviation high/low alarm

Alarm output
Relay contact: 1A at 240VAC, 3A at120VAC, or 3A at 24VAC

Power supply
voltage rating
85~264VAC/50~60Hz

Front panel
dimension
1.89 x 1.89", or 48 x 48 mm (1/16 DIN)

Default setting:
Input sensor: K type thermocouple (sensor not included).
Display Unit: Fahrenheit (°F)
Display resolution: 1 degree.
Alarm 1: Deviation low
Alarm 2: Deviation high

---------------------------------------------

Here's the link to their RTD sensors: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=20_15

 

[augiedoggy]

The Auber 2352 will take an RTD, PT100 probe. The default setting when the unit is shipped is for a K type thermocouple.

----------------------

Main Specifications:


Input type
TC: K, E, S, WRe, J, T, B, N
RTD: Pt100, Cu50, 0-80 ohm, 0-400 ohm.
DC voltage:0~20 mV, 0-100 mv, 0~5V, 1~5V, 0~1V, -100~100mV, -20~20mV, -5~5V, 0.2~1V.
DC current: 4~20mA.

Input range
K (-60~2300ºF), S (-60~3100ºF), WRe (32~4150ºF), T (-330~660ºF), E (32~1500ºF),
J (32~1800ºF), B (32~3300ºF), N (32~2400ºF)Pt100 (-320~1100ºF), Cu50 (-60~300ºF)
Linear input: -1999~+9999 defined by user

Display
Two lines, Four digits. °F or °C.

Display Resolution
1°C and 0.1 °C. or 1°F

Accuracy
±0.2% or ±1 unit of full input range

Control mode
Fuzzy PID, Manual control, On-Off

Output mode
12V DC for external SSR

Alarm
Process high/low alarm, deviation high/low alarm

Alarm output
Relay contact: 1A at 240VAC, 3A at120VAC, or 3A at 24VAC

Power supply
voltage rating
85~264VAC/50~60Hz

Front panel
dimension
1.89 x 1.89", or 48 x 48 mm (1/16 DIN)

Default setting:
Input sensor: K type thermocouple (sensor not included).
Display Unit: Fahrenheit (°F)
Display resolution: 1 degree.
Alarm 1: Deviation low
Alarm 2: Deviation high

---------------------------------------------

Here's the link to their RTD sensors: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=20_15

they all accept the Rtd even the cheapest Rex c100... I only use pt-100 rtd sensors in my build and they work fine and accuaratly with my Rex and my pin pids.

 

[jflongo]

Something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C97IYHS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[augiedoggy]

Something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C97IYHS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

thats exactly what I use....paid about the same for them too but I got the ones with longer 6ft cables.....

 

[jflongo]

I edited my list a little above, and also swapped out the temp guage to a PT100.

I may be able to save a little money by making this more complicated, but I would rather this be as simple as I can to put together, than saving another $20 and adding some more cheaper parts.

What do you guys think of the list, is anything missing?

 

[jflongo]

Also for now, can I just rig up a cord, and then plug this 5500W element into a 30AMP outlet with no control for now just to heat up my HLT? Get it a couple of degrees higher than my strike temp, and then unplug it? Then plug it back in for sparge water?

 

[biertourist]

Also for now, can I just rig up a cord, and then plug this 5500W element into a 30AMP outlet with no control for now just to heat up my HLT? Get it a couple of degrees higher than my strike temp, and then unplug it? Then plug it back in for sparge water?

Do NOT unplug a 240v 30amp plug while it's on. I hope you mean turn the power off at the breaker, then unplug it and plug it back in and turn it on again.


Adam

 

[jflongo]

Do NOT unplug a 240v 30amp plug while it's on. I hope you mean turn the power off at the breaker, then unplug it and plug it back in and turn it on again.


Adam

Sorry that is what I meant. Do any of you do that? I figured I could do this, until I purchase everything else slowly.

 

[dogpoundbrewery]

You might try wiring your elements at 120v for now it might be easier to control their temp until you have your controller built . I've wired my 5500 camco elements for 120v so I can brew for now while I'm trying to decide how much money and features I need for my control panel plus I'm still reading and learning about proper wiring and such .

 

[stevehaun]

Do NOT unplug a 240v 30amp plug while it's on. I hope you mean turn the power off at the breaker, then unplug it and plug it back in and turn it on again.

I am asking this out of ignorance. Does anybody do this? I have been brewing with electricity for about 7 years. I plug in my system and unplug it on every brewday. It is a 50 amp, 240 vac system with a big ass power cord. I have never turned the breaker off before plugging in or unplugging. Am I simply lucky to be alive? I will change my practice in the future if I have been doing it wrong.

 

[KPSquared]

I've never shut a breaker off when plugging in a stove or dryer. Nope.

 

[jflongo]

You might try wiring your elements at 120v for now it might be easier to control their temp until you have your controller built . I've wired my 5500 camco elements for 120v so I can brew for now while I'm trying to decide how much money and features I need for my control panel plus I'm still reading and learning about proper wiring and such .

So if you run 120v to this instead, then does it act more like a 2000W element?

 

[jeffmeh]

So if you run 120v to this instead, then does it act more like a 2000W element?

A 5500w, 240v element will put out 1375w at 120v. When cutting the voltage in half, you divide the wattage by 4, because for a given resistance, power is directly related to the voltage squared.

 

[dogpoundbrewery]

So then I would be better to use my 2 camco 2000 watt 120v elements for now until I can set up my controller for my 5500 watt 240v ? I'm just asking because I'm new to electric brewing . I've been brewing all grain for 5 years but this winter in buffalo has made me want to switch over because of the snow and really cold temperatures .

 

[jeffmeh]

So then I would be better to use my 2 camco 2000 watt 120v elements for now until I can set up my controller for my 5500 watt 240v ? I'm just asking because I'm new to electric brewing . I've been brewing all grain for 5 years but this winter in buffalo has made me want to switch over because of the snow and really cold temperatures .

A 2000w, 120v element draws 16.67a. If you have two separate 20a, 120v circuits you can use, then that would be a good plan. If you only have 15a circuits, you would need to drop down to 1500w elements. In either case, you would be much better off than if you were to only have 1375w available.

 

[dogpoundbrewery]

Thanks I do have 2 seperate 20 amp circuits I also have a 30 amp 220 v gfci circuit for my 5500 watt elements but I have no way to control there output yet . I was going to buy a still dragon control for now but I hate to waste the money because I'm looking at building a control panel I'm still sourcing parts and information on it . There just so much cool stuff and information in here to choose from . I've copied a couple of PJ's schematics just really need to decide how far I want to go yet .

 

[jflongo]

Sounds like I'll do 120V for now, since I have 20A outlets in my garage. I do have a 30A 240V one too, but need to check the grounding on that, I used to use that for a welder. I'll have to try out 120V and see how long it takes to heat up my Keggle for Strike Water as a test.