Glock & gun guys: Need some help

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nukinfuts29

nukinfuts29

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I can't stand the people on forums like Glock Talk, so I'm asking here cause I know a lot of you lunatics are bullet heads like me.

My most-carried off duty weapon is my Glock 19, and it has been rolling around in the safe in my trunk for like 3 months. There is some rust that appears to be surface only that has shown up on my rear night sight, and nowhere else. Slightly on the slide under the sight, but up against it so I know it hasn't spread around. The tenifer protects the slide anyway. Not sure WHY it showed up, this gun has seen more abuse, salt water, rounds, drops, cold, hot and anything else you name then any gun I have ever personally laid hands on. I have put over 50,000 rounds through it personally and have let others use it for practice more times then I can count.

The sight is a Heini straight 8 night sight, not the stock one. I want to get the rust off, but here is my hangup: I do not want to take off the finish of the night sight. I polished my slide (less than 0.10 so I know the tenifer is in tact) on the sides and front but purposley left the top black and the sights black. This was for two reasons, first it keeps the sun from reflecting off the polish into my eyes and two it keeps me from having to remove the strip of skate tape on the slide which is a PITA just to put a new one on.

If I HAVE to take the finish off I will, but I don't want too. Here are a few pics, please excuse my extremely dirty and dull slide. After I take twenty seconds with some mothers polish it shines like a wet super model on Florida's sunniest beach.

G19A.jpg


G19B.jpg


G19C.jpg
 
Looks like the finish is already gone on the left side. You'll probably have to take the sight off, strip it down and re-finish. Either way I don't see a way around getting the rust off without removing the finish.
 
The fact that it is rusting means the finish has been compromised. If you want a cheap and easy, quick and dirty combat pistol finish fix... I would sand the surface rust off (removing the sight would be ideal to get to everything) with emory paper, clean it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, let it dry then give it a coat of "rust reformer." If you wanted you could add something as a finish... matte black paint, but rust reformer leaves a dull, dark finish.

The more intensive project would be to re-blue, parkerize or durakote/ cerakote, etc... some are DIY, some should be done by a gunsmith.

RustOleum.com
 
headbanger said:
Looks like the finish is already gone on the left side. You'll probably have to take the sight off, strip it down and re-finish. Either way I don't see a way around getting the rust off without removing the finish.
Click to expand...

In person it doesn't seem to be

Pennsyltucky said:
The fact that it is rusting means the finish has been compromised. If you want a cheap and easy, quick and dirty combat pistol finish fix... I would sand the surface rust off (removing the sight would be ideal to get to everything) with emory paper, clean it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, let it dry then give it a coat of "rust reformer." If you wanted you could add something as a finish... matte black paint, but rust reformer leaves a dull, dark finish.

The more intensive project would be to re-blue, parkerize or durakote/ cerakote, etc... some are DIY, some should be done by a gunsmith.

RustOleum.com
Click to expand...

I'm going to take some of the CLP I have today and try to soak it for a few minutes and wipe it off. If that doesn't work I may have to refinish it. The main reason to try and avoid that is I have zero clue how to remove the tridium insert, and don't want to ruin an expensive night sight by painting over it.

Now off to Google to figure out how to get it off the slide.
 
You say "off duty weapon" - assuming you're a cop? Is this something your armorer could help you out with? I bet a couple homebrews would get the ball rolling. :)

I wouldn't try any permanent solution to the problem without getting that sight out of there first. If you can see the rust there, there's almost assuredly some where you can't see it, too.

As an aside, you must be a "corrosive sweat" kinda guy. Some are, some aren't - I have to keep all the steel on carry guns clean and oiled every other day to prevent corrosion in the warm seasons.
 
BTW - the sights should push out left to right (from "in use" position) IIRC and you can use an old .22 case to protect your metal if it comes to putting the slide in a vise and drifting it out with a steel punch.
 
Do NOT remove the sight if you do not have the tool to push it back on. And do NOT listen to anyone who tells you that you can put it back on with a punch, you will screw the heck out of the dovetail.

If you just want to clean it up a bit, use some Hoppes solvent and scrub the heck out of it with a bronze bore beush. This will leave some bronze residue that you will have to wipe off with a cloth if it bothers you.

The best way would be to remove the sight, use some sandpaper for metal, and get it down to the bare metal. The you can hit it with some spray and bake finish from brownells, small tape patches over the glass vials. Very detailed work there, then push the sight back on with a sight pusher tool. Good as new.

Personally, on a Glock, I would just scrub the heck out of it and wipe it down with oil every now and then to keep it from getting worse.
 
There's a new Glock site.

GlockForum.com

Check it out. They are running a Glock 22 contest.
 
pernox said:
You say "off duty weapon" - assuming you're a cop? Is this something your armorer could help you out with? I bet a couple homebrews would get the ball rolling. :)

I wouldn't try any permanent solution to the problem without getting that sight out of there first. If you can see the rust there, there's almost assuredly some where you can't see it, too.

As an aside, you must be a "corrosive sweat" kinda guy. Some are, some aren't - I have to keep all the steel on carry guns clean and oiled every other day to prevent corrosion in the warm seasons.
Click to expand...

Not a cop, but not far off. Sorry if that's vague hah. It's not my sweat, I have carried it 24/7 for years. I imagine it's a combination of outdoor exposure and impact from bouncing around in that safe these past few months.

Airborneguy said:
Aren't you a bounty hunter?
Click to expand...

I used to be a recovery agent. Kind of the same thing, but government contracted. I still do it for immigration every few months.

Patrick604 said:
Do NOT remove the sight if you do not have the tool to push it back on. And do NOT listen to anyone who tells you that you can put it back on with a punch, you will screw the heck out of the dovetail.

If you just want to clean it up a bit, use some Hoppes solvent and scrub the heck out of it with a bronze bore beush. This will leave some bronze residue that you will have to wipe off with a cloth if it bothers you.

The best way would be to remove the sight, use some sandpaper for metal, and get it down to the bare metal. The you can hit it with some spray and bake finish from brownells, small tape patches over the glass vials. Very detailed work there, then push the sight back on with a sight pusher tool. Good as new.

Personally, on a Glock, I would just scrub the heck out of it and wipe it down with oil every now and then to keep it from getting worse.
Click to expand...

That's basically what Google got me too. I'm thinking the CLP will take care of it, we will find out. I won't take it off because clearly you need the tool and I wouldn't disrespect my glock with a punch.

TxBrew said:
There's a new Glock site.

GlockForum.com

Check it out. They are running a Glock 22 contest.
Click to expand...

Good to know, hopefully this one will be better ;)
 
I used to work for a police department in Michigan, and before that Delaware. I do not work for a police agency now, I work for the government. Mostly in the immigration recovery sector. I also do contracted recovery work for the US Marshall's for fugitive cases in different regions.
 
nukinfuts29 said:
In person it doesn't seem to be



I'm going to take some of the CLP I have today and try to soak it for a few minutes and wipe it off. If that doesn't work I may have to refinish it. The main reason to try and avoid that is I have zero clue how to remove the tridium insert, and don't want to ruin an expensive night sight by painting over it.

Now off to Google to figure out how to get it off the slide.
Click to expand...

Definitely don't remove the sight without the right tools... cleaned and oiled will definitely do the job.

The rust reformer isn't paint, it is clear and chemically changes rust to neutralize it. they sell it in spray cans and regular, small, paint containers... you could easily brush it on the affected areas with a small artists brush, and then you don't have to worry about any further maintenance. I didn't see the tritium insert until I looked at the pictures a second time. The rust reformer wouldn't change that, especially if you brush it on.
 
Great looking 19. I personally carry a 26 with a G19 mag and extension. I am a ccw instructor locally and I dabble in some minor gunsmith work. CLP is like liquid gold. I LOVE that stuff. I had a friends upper corrode on a 1911 due to some very old ammo and clp took the surface rust down very nicely. I also treated it with a Hoppes wax treated clothe which helps maintain any CLP I used to brush and remove the surface rust. not sure if that helps ya. Very kicka$$ to see a glock guy on this forum. I jumped in here very recently looking for tips and ideas on beers and find this which is great! I agree about the punch or not using one.However there are several inexpensive items and tools that can be used.I shop for tools and such from cheaper than dirt or midwayUSA whomever is cheapest. I typically only use nylon brushes even on the hard stuff just takes longer but wont leave any residue. glock finishes are fantastic and very difficult to rust,third party sights however,as you know,are a different story. If you were ever looking to replace them I highly suggest seeking out some heinie 8's that are coated in tenifer and youll end up with a bullet proof finish much like the slide of that great looking 19.
 
CLP is the only way to go. I went with Hoppe's to get the rust off because it was the only thing in stock.
 
I will give props to the scent, I've sniffed the gun a few times tonight. I can see it retaining more dirt and debris than CLP though.
 
nukinfuts29 said:
HOPS No 9 took it right off. No signs of any harm just surface.

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Good to hear. Funny you mentioned the Glock forum coming across harshly... I thought the same thing. Anyways, I guess I'll just post my questions on here now on ;). I actually just polished my barrel to a mirror shine about three nights ago... I love the new two tone look. You mentioned the tennifer and not going to deep... I was under the impression that this process is "almost as tough as a diamond" so I didn't figure polish and a dremel cloth wheel could do it damage. I heard of a guy who tried his best to damage his Glock just to see if it could be done... from what I understand, he tried to drill into the slide with a carbide bit and it didn't phase the Glock at all. He had to get a grinder bit for the dremel to create a starter groove before the bit took grip. Either way, I love the new customized look. I also did the slide catch since it was starting to wear anyways.
 
They say you can sharpen a knife on the steel, which is true, but has nothing to do with the tenifer. According to Glock the tenifer will become compromised between 0.20 and 0.30 so I never polish beyond 0.10 to be safe. You would have to make a pretty hefty effort to get to 0.20 so I'm sure you are ok.

Make sure to coat the polished metal with CLP, then wipe very clean. Repeat every 4-6 months or every 2,500 rounds whichever comes first.
 
nukinfuts29 said:
Make sure to coat the polished metal with CLP, then wipe very clean. Repeat every 4-6 months or every 2,500 rounds whichever comes first.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. I clean mine after ever outing so it pretty much keeps a good coat of Eezox and FP-10 on it.
 
amd133mhz said:
Great looking 19. I personally carry a 26 with a G19 mag and extension.
Click to expand...


Awesome. I have the same rig. I originally was looking at the G19 but saw I could do this and went with the G26. Best of both worlds. The G26 is so accurate even at longer distances it was a no brainer.
 
Another G26 carrier here. It's been my off-duty carry for 10 years now. Mint condition, has served me well, and will probably be my only everyday-carry weapon for the rest of my life.
 
I like the 26 and the dual springs helps keep it pretty smooth for its size. For me it is too small though. I shot my bosses quite a few times, never felt like i had a sure grip on it. He put the mag extension on it but i never shot it after. I will say it felt much more secure in my hand.

The 22 and 26 are on my future list. The handgun i really want now is a Markov.
 
I carried a G27 for a long time, just switched up to a Kel-Tec PF9, but Im having FTE issues so its going back to Kel-Tec and the G27 will take its place again.:rockin:
 
Kal's are no stranger to FTE, they are very picky about ammo. They typically do well on cheap Winchester.
 
Hence typically LOL. Did you try wolf ammo? I had some luck with those even though it's dirt cheap last resort ammo.

another thing I want to get into on top of polishing is engraving.
 
nukinfuts29 said:
Hence typically LOL. Did you try wolf ammo? I had some luck with those even though it's dirt cheap last resort ammo.

another thing I want to get into on top of polishing is engraving.
Click to expand...

Nope, Ive never had any luck with wolf/steel casings except with my Saiga that ***** chews it and spits it out with the best of them. Now only if I could get my AR's to do that with Wolf shooting would be much cheaper. :ban:
 
Just a video for those that said not to use a punch to remove the rear sight. This is a very common method and you don't need to spend $100 on a sight pusher. I've installed sights, the same ones in the video and it's very easy to do. In the video, however, he's using a nylon tipped punch, which is provided to you when you buy the sights. It is available separately if you want it for your toolbox.

 
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