Hey folks,
I'm still working on setting up my BIAB kettle, and it appears I'm having some GFCI issues. I recently exchanged my 2-pole 30A breaker (used to test the new line I installed) with one with GFCI, and now I cannot get run the system for more than a few minutes before the GFCI trips.
When I originally installed the GFCI, I bonded the pigtail to the neutral bar as normal, but also connected the load neutral (I used 10/3 wire for the run since I wanted to future proof, but my heating element just uses the two hots plus ground). The neutral is unconnected at the receptacle end (NEMA L6-30R). Under this configuration, the kettle would start to heat but would trip just before it (presumably) started to boil.
So today, after reading some threads on the topic and some online articles over the past couple of days, I decided to disconnect the load neutral from the GFCI, but under this new configuration the kettle won't run for longer than a minute or so before tripping the GFCI.
No control panel being is being used, I'm just connecting the element straight into receptacle. So far I've confirmed there is a good ground connection between the ground lug and the kettle (~0.05 ohms; using an 2-gang electrical box ala Kal), and no continuity between any of the hots and the kettle. My element reads about 10.6ohms between both hots. In an earlier thread I was dealing with some leaking issues associated with bad sealing of my kettle but that no longer is an issue, I have found no evidence of water leaking after customizing my own gaskets out of silicone.
Any ideas? I'm tempted to think there may be some residual water somewhere in my heating element from when I was testing out the kettle sealing, but otherwise have no other leads. Any insight would be helpful; I know this issue has come up often, but I know there are some electrical gurus on this forum that may that should be able to solve this quickly. Thanks in advance!
I'm still working on setting up my BIAB kettle, and it appears I'm having some GFCI issues. I recently exchanged my 2-pole 30A breaker (used to test the new line I installed) with one with GFCI, and now I cannot get run the system for more than a few minutes before the GFCI trips.
When I originally installed the GFCI, I bonded the pigtail to the neutral bar as normal, but also connected the load neutral (I used 10/3 wire for the run since I wanted to future proof, but my heating element just uses the two hots plus ground). The neutral is unconnected at the receptacle end (NEMA L6-30R). Under this configuration, the kettle would start to heat but would trip just before it (presumably) started to boil.
So today, after reading some threads on the topic and some online articles over the past couple of days, I decided to disconnect the load neutral from the GFCI, but under this new configuration the kettle won't run for longer than a minute or so before tripping the GFCI.
No control panel being is being used, I'm just connecting the element straight into receptacle. So far I've confirmed there is a good ground connection between the ground lug and the kettle (~0.05 ohms; using an 2-gang electrical box ala Kal), and no continuity between any of the hots and the kettle. My element reads about 10.6ohms between both hots. In an earlier thread I was dealing with some leaking issues associated with bad sealing of my kettle but that no longer is an issue, I have found no evidence of water leaking after customizing my own gaskets out of silicone.
Any ideas? I'm tempted to think there may be some residual water somewhere in my heating element from when I was testing out the kettle sealing, but otherwise have no other leads. Any insight would be helpful; I know this issue has come up often, but I know there are some electrical gurus on this forum that may that should be able to solve this quickly. Thanks in advance!
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