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jagg

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2006
Messages
518
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Location
North Central NC
OK, I just got a 10 gal. cooler and converted it, I have a keggle Im about to convert, and all the little brewing tools, my question is, what else am I going to need to go all grain, do I need 2 keggles or will the one be all I need? thanks in advance to all who reply.
 
jagg said:
I was gonig to use a pot, I think it will hold 4 gallons, is that big enough?

Not if you are going to do 10 gallon batches. 10 gallon batches need at least 6 gallons of strike water.
 
jagg said:
OK, I just got a 10 gal. cooler and converted it, I have a keggle Im about to convert, and all the little brewing tools, my question is, what else am I going to need to go all grain, do I need 2 keggles or will the one be all I need? thanks in advance to all who reply.
1. A propane burner. Very few kitchen stoves can boil enough wort for a 5g AG batch (and even fewer if you go above 5g).
2. A wort chiller
3. A grain mill if you brew enough and can get bulk grain at a reasonable price.
4. A HLT, but you may well be able to use a large pot on the stove top if you are batch sparging. I think you'll need bigger than 4g, but 4g may just about cut it for a 5g brew.

-a.
 
ok, thanks, looks like I need a bigger pot, or another keggle, Ill be asking more questions soon, thanks to all.
 
You can easily use one pot and one burner if you modify another cooler for your hot liquor tank. Here is a really flexible system that I would recommend if you are batch sparging:

MLT: converted 10 gal Rubbermaid cooler (see my sig for construction details)
HLT: 5 - 7 gal cooler, converted the same way
boil kettle: converted keggle
heat source: propane burner, such as a turkey fryer
chiller: 50' immersion chiller or 25' counter-flow chiller
extras: if you want to do step mashes, a steam injection system (see my sig for an example), temperature probes, etc.

A cooler-based system has some real advantages that I think people sometimes don't give full credit to:
- they are inexpensive
- they are easy to assemble and don't require special tools (e.g., welder)
- mashing in a cooler makes it very easy to hit and hold a mash temperature, and the heat stays very uniformly distributed
- the system is light and easily portable
- does not require a separate brewstand
- allows one to get away with using only one pot and one burner (the most expensive items in the system)
- you generally don't need a pump because a cooler full of water/mash isn't nearly as heavy to lift as a full keggle (so less expense, one less thing to clean)

I suggest two different sized coolers for flexibility. For example, if you are brewing with a small grainbill, use the 5 to 7 gal cooler for your mash tun so that you have a good grainbed depth. If you are brewing a bigger beer, use the 10 gal mash tun and the other becomes the HLT. While you are mashing, heat your sparge water and put it in the second cooler. Lauter directly into the now empty boil kettle, and start heating, and conduct your sparge. You will only be limited if you want to do a really big beer and you need a lot of sparge water, in which case two 10 gal coolers might be a better setup.

As other posters suggest above, if you decide you want to change your system around, the components here are almost completely recyclable. Those round coolers make excellent fermentation chambers for lagering (just add ice), and they hold a corny keg really well for deck parties. So you won't really be wasting any of your investment if you still want a big 3-tier herms system down the road.

Disadvantages of a cooler system:
- poor LCF (Look Cool Factor -- yeah, the coolers aren't as impressive as a big, shiny SS herms setup)
- can't direct fire them (but you can use steam injection which is just as easy, and has many advantages as well)
- probably some others I am not thinking of right now

Anyways, that got long -- sorry. Just my $.02.
 
Thanks Flyguy, it was your post that I used to convert the cooler, thanks by the way, I think I can swing another keggle, so do you think that is the best way to go, and I have 2 propane burners already, I guess i should convert another keggle then? Thanks for all the help to all!
 
jagg said:
Thanks Flyguy, it was your post that I used to convert the cooler, thanks by the way, I think I can swing another keggle, so do you think that is the best way to go, and I have 2 propane burners already, I guess i should convert another keggle then? Thanks for all the help to all!

My pleasure - glad to have helped in some way!

Sure, if you can get another keggle easy and you already have 2 burners, then go for it. The difference is relatively small, and if you do want to end up with a HERMS system, then you are one piece closer to it!

Hope it all works well for you -- let us know how your first brew goes on the first system!
 
BierMuncher said:
Hate to contradict you EdWort, but my thinking is more like 6.435673569 gallons...roughly...:cross:

He did say "at least".

I wish I could score the 15.5 gallon kegs you have down there. Up here we see mostly 50L (13.21 US gallon) kegs. I oculd use the extra boil room on those big beers.

I wonder those pots that come with those turkey fryer setups are big enough for him. What size are they?
 
Denny's Evil Concoctions said:
I wonder those pots that come with those turkey fryer setups are big enough for him. What size are they?

I use my ex-turkey fryer for strike water for my 10-gallon batches. Full capacity is 7 1/2 and I measured 6 gallons right below the handles.

Notice my measuring device. Like all my other equipment...high tech.

BrewPot.JPG
 

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