Getting a valve put on my kettle

[Cheesefood]

I wasn't even thinking when I bought the CF chiller, but then rdwj reminded me that I need a valve on my kettle to use a CF chiller.

How much should I expect to pay to have a welder put one on? Is there any alternative to welding one on? How do I find someone to do this?

 

[Baron von BeeGee]

You can always just buy a step bit for your drill and drill a hole yourself, then purchase one of the 'weldless' bulkhead kits available for kegs. A welded in bung has more of a bling factor, but entails the hassle of finding a welder unless you have one.

If you haven't thought about it, you also want some type of screen (such as a Bazooka screen or homemade) to filter out the hops and some of the break material.

 

[the_bird]

Weldless bulkhead.

$15 at Northern Brewer. http://www.northernbrewer.com/weldless.html

You screw a ball value right onto the outside, and your hopstopper or Bazooka screen or whatever you are using on the inside. Little bit of teflon tape to seal things up. All you need is a big drill bit, you might invest $30 in a step drill bit at Depot (I used a bi-metal hole saw when converting my keg).

 

[Desert_Sky]

Something like a bazooka tube or some type of screen/filter would work really well too for the inside.

 

[rdwj]

You can always just buy a step bit for your drill and drill a hole yourself, then purchase one of the 'weldless' bulkhead kits available for kegs. A welded in bung has more of a bling factor, but entails the hassle of finding a welder unless you have one.

If you haven't thought about it, you also want some type of screen (such as a Bazooka screen or homemade) to filter out the hops and some of the break material.

Dumb question, the difference between a step bit and just drilling a pilot and using a big bit is...???

 

[the_bird]

These are step-drill bits:

Basically, that one drill bit will allow you to drill many different size holes. If you have a properly sized hole saw or a "regular" drill bit, use that - but if you're buying new, a regular drill bit is about the same $$ as a step drill bit (the hoel saw kit MAY be slightly cheaper, but not much).

 

[Bobby_M]

Nothing much. A step bit gives you multiple hole sizes in one bit, just keep drilling for bigger and bigger holes. A hole saw with a pilot requires a different bit for each size you want. Personally, I think a hole saw is faster and produces less wear and tear on both the bit and drill because with a step, you're chipping away a lot of material to get to your ultimate size. Plus, the tips of your step bits will wear out well before the large sizes down the shaft leading to more replacing over time.

 

[Cheesefood]

$15 at Northern Brewer. http://www.northernbrewer.com/weldless.html

You screw a ball value right onto the outside, and your hopstopper or Bazooka screen or whatever you are using on the inside. Little bit of teflon tape to seal things up. All you need is a big drill bit, you might invest $30 in a step drill bit at Depot (I used a bi-metal hole saw when converting my keg).

rdwj pointed this out: http://www.greatbargain.net/order/shop.html

Just need to get the saw, or find someone in my area who has one.

 

[the_bird]

There you go, I forgot about that site. Looks like the exact same stuff they sell on NB. I have the weldless bulkhead from NB, and it works perfectly.

 

[Cheesefood]

Anyone know what size of a hoel to drill?

 

[Bobby_M]

The OD of a 1/2" nipple is .84" so 7/8" bit sounds right (that's .875"). It might be a little snug, but I wouldn't go up to a full inch.

I still haven't drilled mine, but I'm thinking about pounding a slight "flat" into my pot so that I don't have to crank the O-ring so damned tight. Anyone try this?

 

[the_bird]

I don't think it was 7/8; it was an odd size, like 13/16ths. It also may be slightly different for whichever on you are getting, so I wouldn't buy any drill bits until you have the weldless kit in your hand. If it comes with instructions, it'll tell you the precise size.

 

[Cheesefood]

Just ordered the valve and the cooler valve. Man, the wife is already getting mad at my brewing supplies. I'll need to hide this purchase from her.

 

[the_bird]

Remind her how much cheaper it is to brew with grain than with extract - $15-20 per batch versus $40. So, you'll make your investment back very quickly.

And she's the one who told you to start kegging!

 

[rdwj]

Ouch, those hop stoppers are kinda expensive! $60 for a screen?!? Anyone have an economy solution or is this one of those things you just have to bite the bullet on?

 

[the_bird]

Bazooka screens are less than $20, IIRC.

FWIW, Dude loves his hopstopper, though.

 

[Jer]

The direction that come with the bulkhead call out for a 7/8" hole... I bought a step bit from home depot that went up to 7/8... Fit the bulkhead perfectly...

 

[the_bird]

Maybe I'm wrong, then. In any case, I wouldn't buy a drill bit until I got the bulkhead and knew for certain.

 

[Cheesefood]

Rhoob is going to allow me to use his 7/8" bit for the drilling (and, if it's not too much to ask, a dremmel for the deburring?) when he teaches me AG.

I think I'm going to wait on the hopstopper / bazooka screen for a little while longer. I use whole hops most of the time so I can whirlpool and strain.

 

[Bobby_M]

I'm looking at the CAD drawing of a 1/2" NPT nipple from McMaster so I'm pretty sure it will fit into a 7/8" bit. 13/16" in decimal is .8125 which is smaller than the outside thread diameter of the nipple (.84). Basically, you'd have to thread it in.

Cheese, cheap screen solution would be a stainless lint catcher tube for the drain on a washing machine. I don't recall who recommended it, but it should work. I'm also toying with the idea of getting some SS screen or thin perforated sheeting from McMaster and rolling my own. I figure I can stitch the seam with a piece of copper wire. Stainless is just NOT cheap.

 

[Cheesefood]

I'm looking at the CAD drawing of a 1/2" NPT nipple from McMaster so I'm pretty sure it will fit into a 7/8" bit. 13/16" in decimal is .8125 which is smaller than the outside thread diameter of the nipple (.84). Basically, you'd have to thread it in.

Cheese, cheap screen solution would be a stainless lint catcher tube for the drain on a washing machine. I don't recall who recommended it, but it should work. I'm also toying with the idea of getting some SS screen or thin perforated sheeting from McMaster and rolling my own. I figure I can stitch the seam with a piece of copper wire. Stainless is just NOT cheap.

Someone here made their own hopstopper, and if I recall right they recommended against it.

 

[Bobby_M]

I'd be curious what the downside was and what exact material/dimensions they used. If you have a stoppage issue, you either have to make the strainer holes bigger or increase the surface area. You can't have it both ways. If you want a nice compact strainer, the holes better be pretty big. Obviously the downsize is larger amounts and sizes of particles that get through. I don't mind hops and break material in my primary, you just want to keep your CFC from clogging up.

 

[Rhoobarb]

...and, if it's not too much to ask, a dremmel for the deburring...

Sure, it should be a quick deburr, too. Unibits usually make pretty clean holes.

 

[Cheesefood]

Sure, it should be a quick deburr, too. Unibits usually make pretty clean holes.

You da man, Rhoob. Rdwj is going to help me make a manifold around that time as well.

HBT people rule! Now if only we can convince Yuri to move to the Chicagoland area...

 

[Rhoobarb]

... Rdwj is going to help me make a manifold around that time as well. ...

Copper or CPVC?

 

[Spyk'd]

All I can say is whole hops LOVE to get stuck in your ball valve!!!



I use a Bazooka and have had zero clogging. I highly recommend them. Best 17 bucks I've spent (on straining apperatuses).

 

[Cheesefood]

Copper or CPVC?

Copper, I think.

 

[Biermann]

All I can say is whole hops LOVE to get stuck in your ball valve!!!



I use a Bazooka and have had zero clogging. I highly recommend them. Best 17 bucks I've spent (on straining apperatuses).

False bottoms work equally well, and you can get one made for your kettle.
Although my old boil kettle used a bazooka, and it worked great.

 

[brewman !]

A couple things...

a) You don't have to have a valve if you have a pump. I made up come copper racking tubes and my pump self primes, so my boil kettles don't need a tap. But yes, it has one.

b) I made up weldless fittings for my kegs and they leak when they get hot. I am going to redo them with silver solder like it discusses in this post.

http://morebeer.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18439

 

[user 7154]

For a screen, you can also try a SS braided washer hose for a few bucks and they have several sizes. Just cut off the ends and pull the inner tube out - just remember the Chinese finger cuff trick when pulling the tube out. Then you just clamp one end closed and the other to the coupler, or whatever you use to exit the kettle.