GE 7 CF (FCM7SUWW) keezer conversion

[altrob]

good evening. just about to start a keezer build. wondering what size boards for collar? 2x? I was thinking about 1x8 to save weight, but not sure it'll be stong enough. Plan to double the hinges (bought spares from Sears) for more options. cheers!

 

[TomSD]

good evening. just about to start a keezer build. wondering what size boards for collar? 2x? I was thinking about 1x8 to save weight, but not sure it'll be stong enough. Plan to double the hinges (bought spares from Sears) for more options. cheers!

1x10 is what I used. 2" is too thick sadly since the lip is pretty small. Also anything less than 10" is not going to have room on the hump. You could go much shorter on the collar if you are willing to cut the hump off the lid though as it hangs way down.

 

[BaltimoreJeff]

Hello all,

I have been reading this thread and am interested in taking on this project. I think i have an understanding of the construction that is needed to build the keezer itself (thanks to TomSD's multiple posts), but i am not sure i know exactly what hardware and connections I would need to purchase to complete the project.

Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but could someone please point me in the right direction of what is needed in terms of parts (i.e. inventory of hoses, couplers, taps, etc.) that are needed to complete the keezer?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[TomSD]

I left that out as it is really a personal choice. The basics though are a faucet with tap handles, a shank, beer line with keg fitting, keg, air hose with keg fitting, CO2 regulator, CO2 tank. Add to that a manifold, secondary regulator or simple splitters so you can provide CO2 to whatever number kegs you install and you are good.

The reason for not listing it though is there are so many options from uber cheap or packaged in a kit to expensive and you can change things out or use other options to achieve your goals.

There is a picture of most of the guts I used in this thread but here it is again.

 

[BaltimoreJeff]

Thanks, TomSD. I have done some research on the inner workings of kegerators/keezers on this forum and noticed that there are a lot of options. I haven't yet figured out what my preferences since i only have experience with bottles and am just learning about kegging.

In general, my tastes tend to fall in between uber cheap and expensive -- somewhere in the middle where i feel like i'm getting good value.

with this in mind, is the best next step for someone in my situation to contact a distributor like KEGCONNECTIONS to talk through all the options, or is a local home brew store likely to have a good selection of parts needed for the keezer?

Thanks again for any insight!
Jeff

 

[Marlowefire]

I'd go with kegconnection. My LHBS is way overpriced when it comes to kegs.

 

[altrob]

thx. 1x10 it is. the UPS trucks are converging with keezer goodies from around the country. this should be fun!

 

[BaltimoreJeff]

I'd go with kegconnection. My LHBS is way overpriced when it comes to kegs.

Thanks for the tip. I'll start there and see how things go.

Jeff

 

[TomSD]

For kegs and plumbing I would go web all the way. As you do though keep an eye on the forums and search around. Some places, and/or brands, are much better than others. In many cases you will learn you can get a cheap item and live with it but a better one will make a huge difference... a classic example of this is Perlick vs pretty much any other faucet. They are a better design, don't stick and are a joy to use. Save some money going with cheap faucets though and you'll probably regret it.

The flip side of that is a secondary regulator. You can see mine in the pictures of the open keezer and in the parts picture I linked earlier. It is a top of the line Micromatic, it has four regulators, it was quite expensive. You could go with something much cheaper or just get a manifold or even just split right off the primary regulator and probably never even notice the difference. I wanted a nice regulator though and I wanted the flexibility and precision I got with this one.

Another example is lines. I bought what I thought was enough lines to plumb everything but ran short so went to my LHBS to grab another length. It wasn't the same quality as the stuff I bought originally. Now, over a year later, it is obvious. There is nothing wrong with it really but the difference is clear. The original line is supple and easy to work with, even when cold and under pressure. The LHBS line is stiff and wants to stay where it was which makes it a pain in the butt when changing out kegs or cleaning out inside the keezer.

Kind of running on but it gives you an idea of the choices you can make that can impact both the cost and the build quality/performance of your finished keezer. Keep an eye on the forums, use google and do your research and you'll most likely be happy with the results. There are lots of options out there... don't just grab the cheapest keg conversion kit and go with it.

 

[user 84304]

Great thread here, and I have the same freezer, currently used for a fermentation chamber. I've been considering going to kegging and your thread sparks some ideas. I do think for me, with limited workspace and limited tools, it would be better to just go with a tap tower through the lid and be done with it. Then I'll buy another one to use for fermentation. Just wanted to give you a thumbs up on yours, though.

Cheers!

 

[dmsullivan2]

Tom, I am going to buy this freezer as well, i see you fit 4 cornys on the floor, are they ball lock or pin lock? Sorry if it was already mentioned in this thread I read through most of it but may have missed it, Cheers!

 

[TomSD]

Ball lock, pin lock are too wide to fit four on the floor. Make sure they are not converted ball lock kegs either as those are just pin lock kegs with ball lock posts on them.

 

[snail]

Just a bump to this thread to let everyone know that this freezer is on sale at Home Depot right now from $219 to $168. I just bought one and also used a 10% off coupon and got it for $161.78 total!

Offer valid until 11/28/11

 

[daksin]

Just a bump to this thread to let everyone know that this freezer is on sale at Home Depot right now from $219 to $168. I just bought one and also used a 10% off coupon and got it for $161.78 total!

Offer valid until 11/28/11

Plus free shipping!

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

Does the trick with using the adjustment screw in the built in temperature controller work, or is an external temperature controller needed?

 

[TomSD]

I don't think I would want to run a ferm chamber or keezer without an external controller even if it did work. As to your question... I don't know, I never tried.

 

[copyright1997]

Plus free shipping!

Both HD and Walmart have 7.0 cu ft GE freezers for $159. HD includes free shipping (haven't checked Walmart.com).

Great thread, getting wonderful ideas on how to do my build.

A question for someone who has done their builds. I am considering using "white wood" from HD for the collar. If I do this, the max width is 1x8 which is 3/4"x7 1/4" actual. From reading earlier posts, this might be extremely tight if I wanted to put a corny on the hump. Would it be possible for someone to do an actual measurement? I have mostly ball-lock but I could use a pin-lock on the collar (as they aren't as tall)? I am only considering this route to minimize project time, eliminate any change that could mess up the warranty. I am planning on putting this in my kitchen so I can avoid that long walk to the basement where my old ugly converted refrigerator sits.

Thanks to all for some awesome looking builds in this thread.

Oh, one other thing. On the subject of fitting a half-barrel, there is a plan B. When I had my first batch of home-brew ready in the keg, I already had a half empty 1/4 barrel (pony style) in my converted fridge with no room for the keg. So, I simply did a keg-to-keg transfer from the pony keg to an empty corny. (No air exposure.) You simply rig up from your bev out on the sanke keg a line which goes to a qd which is connected to the bev line of the target empty corny. Then apply co2 to the sanke and when it's pressure is higher than the target corny, the beer will start to transfer. Then vent the pressure on the target once in a while and you can do the transfer. So, while not perfect, you can use this method to transfer a 1/2 barrel to 3 5-gallon corny kegs. The extra 1/2 gallon you just drink while you are doing the transfer

 

[kmat123]

Both HD and Walmart have 7.0 cu ft GE freezers for $159. HD includes free shipping (haven't checked Walmart.com).

Great thread, getting wonderful ideas on how to do my build.

A question for someone who has done their builds. I am considering using "white wood" from HD for the collar. If I do this, the max width is 1x8 which is 3/4"x7 1/4" actual. From reading earlier posts, this might be extremely tight if I wanted to put a corny on the hump. Would it be possible for someone to do an actual measurement? I have mostly ball-lock but I could use a pin-lock on the collar (as they aren't as tall)? I am only considering this route to minimize project time, eliminate any change that could mess up the warranty. I am planning on putting this in my kitchen so I can avoid that long walk to the basement where my old ugly converted refrigerator sits.

Thanks to all for some awesome looking builds in this thread.

Oh, one other thing. On the subject of fitting a half-barrel, there is a plan B. When I had my first batch of home-brew ready in the keg, I already had a half empty 1/4 barrel (pony style) in my converted fridge with no room for the keg. So, I simply did a keg-to-keg transfer from the pony keg to an empty corny. (No air exposure.) You simply rig up from your bev out on the sanke keg a line which goes to a qd which is connected to the bev line of the target empty corny. Then apply co2 to the sanke and when it's pressure is higher than the target corny, the beer will start to transfer. Then vent the pressure on the target once in a while and you can do the transfer. So, while not perfect, you can use this method to transfer a 1/2 barrel to 3 5-gallon corny kegs. The extra 1/2 gallon you just drink while you are doing the transfer

You need a 10" high collar in order to have a ball lock corny on the hump with clearance for the QDs.

 

[copyright1997]

You need a 10" high collar in order to have a ball lock corny on the hump with clearance for the QDs.

What if I use that area only for co2 and pin lock?

 

[kmat123]

What if I use that area only for co2 and pin lock?

You might be able to fit a 5# CO2 tank on the hump with a ball lock but won't be able to fit a pin lock on the hump with 4 ball locks on the floor.

 

[barhoc11]

Both HD and Walmart have 7.0 cu ft GE freezers for $159. HD includes free shipping (haven't checked Walmart.com).

Great thread, getting wonderful ideas on how to do my build.

A question for someone who has done their builds. I am considering using "white wood" from HD for the collar. If I do this, the max width is 1x8 which is 3/4"x7 1/4" actual. From reading earlier posts, this might be extremely tight if I wanted to put a corny on the hump. Would it be possible for someone to do an actual measurement? I have mostly ball-lock but I could use a pin-lock on the collar (as they aren't as tall)? I am only considering this route to minimize project time, eliminate any change that could mess up the warranty. I am planning on putting this in my kitchen so I can avoid that long walk to the basement where my old ugly converted refrigerator sits.

Thanks to all for some awesome looking builds in this thread.

Oh, one other thing. On the subject of fitting a half-barrel, there is a plan B. When I had my first batch of home-brew ready in the keg, I already had a half empty 1/4 barrel (pony style) in my converted fridge with no room for the keg. So, I simply did a keg-to-keg transfer from the pony keg to an empty corny. (No air exposure.) You simply rig up from your bev out on the sanke keg a line which goes to a qd which is connected to the bev line of the target empty corny. Then apply co2 to the sanke and when it's pressure is higher than the target corny, the beer will start to transfer. Then vent the pressure on the target once in a while and you can do the transfer. So, while not perfect, you can use this method to transfer a 1/2 barrel to 3 5-gallon corny kegs. The extra 1/2 gallon you just drink while you are doing the transfer

I used a 2x8 for my collar and I can say that fitting the 5th keg on the hump is possible BUT it is a very tight fit. I want to say that when I tried this it was about an 1/8th of an inch too tall so that the lid would not close entirely. A simple way to get around this if you know about it before building your keezer is to either make a bigger collar or get thicker rubber for your weatherstripping.

I plan to get around this by sanding off some of the rubber from one of my kegs bottoms to get it to fit or by getting a low profile ball lock keg or getting a converted pin lock.

The 5# regulator fits with no problem on the hump but I like to let my other kegs hold it up since there is a lot of empty areas between the kegs due to having them staggered. I am using the space above the hump for the basket that comes with the freezer for bottles and below that I keep my washed yeast on the actual hump.

I am hoping I can keep my setup as it is with 4 kegs on the floor but I can see that changing as I get more into AG. Here is a link to mine so you can see what I mean... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/show-us-your-kegerator-29053/index310.html#post3418986

 

[copyright1997]

I used a 2x8 for my collar and I can say that fitting the 5th keg on the hump is possible BUT it is a very tight fit. I want to say that when I tried this it was about an 1/8th of an inch too tall so that the lid would not close entirely. A simple way to get around this if you know about it before building your keezer is to either make a bigger collar or get thicker rubber for your weatherstripping.

I plan to get around this by sanding off some of the rubber from one of my kegs bottoms to get it to fit or by getting a low profile ball lock keg or getting a converted pin lock.

The 5# regulator fits with no problem on the hump but I like to let my other kegs hold it up since there is a lot of empty areas between the kegs due to having them staggered. I am using the space above the hump for the basket that comes with the freezer for bottles and below that I keep my washed yeast on the actual hump.

I am hoping I can keep my setup as it is with 4 kegs on the floor but I can see that changing as I get more into AG. Here is a link to mine so you can see what I mean... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/show-us-your-kegerator-29053/index310.html#post3418986

Thanks, looks very nice. I think I will give up on the 1x8 "white wood" idea and just use 1x10 that I either stain or paint. It's going in the kitchen but I have wood floors (and lots of stained wood in the house in general). Do you have a write-up on the details of your build?

 

[TomSD]

Another option is to carve out some of the insulation in the lid... that hump is crazy big.

 

[barhoc11]

Thanks, looks very nice. I think I will give up on the 1x8 "white wood" idea and just use 1x10 that I either stain or paint. It's going in the kitchen but I have wood floors (and lots of stained wood in the house in general). Do you have a write-up on the details of your build?

I don't have a write up of the build but I did follow this build almost step by step, the only thing different I did was the 2x8. By using the thicker wood, I didn't have to shim out anything and I got some better insulation qualities due to it being a little thicker. I am pretty sure HD sells 2x10's that you could use and have no issues with getting the 5th on the hump.

Let us know how it works out or if you have more questions.

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

Sweet, mine was just delivered. They carried it up stairs to my office and everything. Giving it a 48 hour burn in now.

Is there a way to run a temperature probe without modifying the freezer?

 

[barhoc11]

Sweet, mine was just delivered. They carried it up stairs to my office and everything. Giving it a 48 hour burn in now.

Is there a way to run a temperature probe without modifying the freezer?

run it in and let the lid close on it, you wont lose much if any coldness by doing so.

 

[skeezerpleezer]

While not as good of deal as the first one I bought for $20, I think I will grab one for a fermentation chamber.

 

[barhoc11]

While not as good of deal as the first one I bought for $20, I think I will grab one for a fermentation chamber.

View attachment 39679

Where are these selling for $100?

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

run it in and let the lid close on it, you wont lose much if any coldness by doing so.

My CHI temp controller is due in today, so I will give that a try.

Maybe add a bit of foam tape either side of probe wire.

 

[barhoc11]

My CHI temp controller is due in today, so I will give that a try.

Maybe add a bit of foam tape either side of probe wire.

I wouldn't do that, it will only make the gap bigger. The seal on this freezer is pretty forgiving and thick so a small wire will not do much to the seal.