9000W - wow! Do you have some specs and what components you used to build the RIMS tube(s)? What kind of circuit are you running it on? 220V, 50A?
Fusion weld? OR Wire weld?
- Thread starter willynilly
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willynilly
Well-Known Member
240VAC, 50A yes
wilserbrewer
BIAB Expert Tailor
Very nice Willy, FWIW, I think you could likely put 10 more kettles on that stand without issue, unless of course you plan on racing it around a dirt track.
willynilly
Well-Known Member
Well I had time today to crunch a few numbers, I like numbers.
This is all based on a 10g batch with a 13 gallon pre-boil volume. Starting water temp is 65F. Grain bill is 30 pounds and the assumed kettle loss to trub is ONE gallon.
17 gallons to start at 65F needs to be heated to 170F (some for strike, some for the "sparge".
142 pounds of water raised 110F is 15,620 BTUs of energy
During the mash, the RIMS heater will run on and off, but how much is hard to determine. So for now I am ignoring the "maintain temp" power usage.
After the mash and "sparge" I will have to boil 13 gallons (3 gallons lost to absorption).
109 pounds of water raised from 160F to 210F requires 5,450 BTUs of energy
Now that it is boiling, I want to boil off about 1.5 gallons, or 13 pounds of water.
13 pounds of water requires an additional 12,610 BTUs of energy to boil off
Through use of my previous electric kettle I observed approximately 95% eff. when heating with electric (this is because of heat loss through kettle walls for example)
So ignoring the heat loss during the mash and the subsequent RIMS heater firing during the 60 minute mash (I cannot quantify this very well) it will take about 33,680 BTUs of energy to complete the entire brewing session from a COLD start, to finish.
Each kWh for me runs about $.12-$.14.
Each kW is equal to 3412 BTUs
This means that I will need to consume 9.9 kW to complete the brewing session, sorta... Remember this is assuming that electric is 100% eff. and it is not due to radiant heat losses. So basically I need to increase this by 5% to get my actual electric requirement. I need to consume 10.4 kW, at a cost of approximately $1.25 to $1.46 for a complete brew session.
This is asked a lot... how long will it take to heat though?
11 gallons of strike water from 65F to 170F will take 20 minutes
13 gallons of boil volume from 160F to 210F (boiling) will take 12 minutes
If the system is able to raise the temp. of my garage 20F (which it cannot) due to heat loss:
3600cu feet of air
Multiplied by 20F temp. delta
Multiplied by .018BTUs per cu. foot to raise 1F
This would indicate a heat loss of 1,296 BTUs during the 60 minute mash, which is only about .4kW or $.06
This is all based on a 10g batch with a 13 gallon pre-boil volume. Starting water temp is 65F. Grain bill is 30 pounds and the assumed kettle loss to trub is ONE gallon.
17 gallons to start at 65F needs to be heated to 170F (some for strike, some for the "sparge".
142 pounds of water raised 110F is 15,620 BTUs of energy
During the mash, the RIMS heater will run on and off, but how much is hard to determine. So for now I am ignoring the "maintain temp" power usage.
After the mash and "sparge" I will have to boil 13 gallons (3 gallons lost to absorption).
109 pounds of water raised from 160F to 210F requires 5,450 BTUs of energy
Now that it is boiling, I want to boil off about 1.5 gallons, or 13 pounds of water.
13 pounds of water requires an additional 12,610 BTUs of energy to boil off
Through use of my previous electric kettle I observed approximately 95% eff. when heating with electric (this is because of heat loss through kettle walls for example)
So ignoring the heat loss during the mash and the subsequent RIMS heater firing during the 60 minute mash (I cannot quantify this very well) it will take about 33,680 BTUs of energy to complete the entire brewing session from a COLD start, to finish.
Each kWh for me runs about $.12-$.14.
Each kW is equal to 3412 BTUs
This means that I will need to consume 9.9 kW to complete the brewing session, sorta... Remember this is assuming that electric is 100% eff. and it is not due to radiant heat losses. So basically I need to increase this by 5% to get my actual electric requirement. I need to consume 10.4 kW, at a cost of approximately $1.25 to $1.46 for a complete brew session.
This is asked a lot... how long will it take to heat though?
11 gallons of strike water from 65F to 170F will take 20 minutes
13 gallons of boil volume from 160F to 210F (boiling) will take 12 minutes
If the system is able to raise the temp. of my garage 20F (which it cannot) due to heat loss:
3600cu feet of air
Multiplied by 20F temp. delta
Multiplied by .018BTUs per cu. foot to raise 1F
This would indicate a heat loss of 1,296 BTUs during the 60 minute mash, which is only about .4kW or $.06
GreenMonti
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Just curious to which Avon your in? If it is Colorado then your water will boil at like 198*.
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Hello, New member here. Have brewed 8 batches in 12 years, but weld stainless every day. I am a fabricator in a food factory (Kraft Foods).
First, I am sure your welds are plenty strong enough for what you are doing.
Second, GTAW or TIG or Heli-arc (what you call fusion) welding CAN produce a stronger weld than wire welding in many cases. The reason for this is that with Tig welding, the heat zone is more concentrated, resulting in better penetration. Wire welding is terrible for penetration, but, if you have any type of gap, then you need to use fill rod to get maximum strength. The next thing that you need to do to get a super strong weld is purge the back side of the weld. The back side will sugar if you are hot enough to get full penetration. With a purge, the inside of the weld will look just like the outside.
Third, Wire welding will warp less because there is less heat due to the faster travel speed.
Last, If looks are most important, tig weld it....but use fill rod. If it is for function and you want it fast....wire weld.
First, I am sure your welds are plenty strong enough for what you are doing.
Second, GTAW or TIG or Heli-arc (what you call fusion) welding CAN produce a stronger weld than wire welding in many cases. The reason for this is that with Tig welding, the heat zone is more concentrated, resulting in better penetration. Wire welding is terrible for penetration, but, if you have any type of gap, then you need to use fill rod to get maximum strength. The next thing that you need to do to get a super strong weld is purge the back side of the weld. The back side will sugar if you are hot enough to get full penetration. With a purge, the inside of the weld will look just like the outside.
Third, Wire welding will warp less because there is less heat due to the faster travel speed.
Last, If looks are most important, tig weld it....but use fill rod. If it is for function and you want it fast....wire weld.
ScubaSteve
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Beautiful stand, beautiful build. Can't believe you would have sold it!? B3 sells identical stands and charges a HELL of a lot more. I think we tend to get wrapped around numbers, etc. and what we SHOULD be doing (according to what "THEY" say). That's a real nice rig, man....I'm sure you'll see pics of it popping up here and there, and getting PM's about it. Emulation is the ultimate form of flattery!
Yes, this forum gives you a bit of sh!t....but it's because you've got a lot of really intelligent people with a lot of time on their hands, who obsess about brewing. I think it's all about whose advice you take. Some folks are sticklers for the "rules", others fly in the face of conventional wisdom....which is why you now have a 9000w U-shaped heat exchanger and 2 vessel system
Yes, this forum gives you a bit of sh!t....but it's because you've got a lot of really intelligent people with a lot of time on their hands, who obsess about brewing. I think it's all about whose advice you take. Some folks are sticklers for the "rules", others fly in the face of conventional wisdom....which is why you now have a 9000w U-shaped heat exchanger and 2 vessel system
Looks great!
One thing though, i'm not sure if it's the picture but here it looks like that fan hole is right under your tri-clamps. I would hate to see one of them get disconnected and a deluge of water/wort goes flowing into your box. Might be worth making a shield or something to deflect water.
One thing though, i'm not sure if it's the picture but here it looks like that fan hole is right under your tri-clamps. I would hate to see one of them get disconnected and a deluge of water/wort goes flowing into your box. Might be worth making a shield or something to deflect water.
willynilly
Well-Known Member
There is actually a 12" offset there. It is on CL now.
